Search results for: skincare textiles

Authors: Nazanin Forouz

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The textile industry faces increasing criticism due to its resource-intensive nature and the negative environmental and societal impacts associated with the manufacturing, use, and disposal of clothes. To address these concerns, there is a growing desire to transition towards a circular economy for textiles, implementing recycling concepts and technologies to protect resources, the environment, and people. While existing recycling processes have focused on chemical and mechanical reuse of textile fibers, bio-based processes have received limited attention beyond end-of-life composting. However, bio-based technologies hold great promise for circularizing the textile life cycle and reducing environmental impacts.

Keywords: textile industry, circular economy, bio-based processes, recycling, environmental impacts

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Authors: Leslie Nobler

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African fabrics based specifically on the Dutch Wax Print, or Ankara, popularized during Africa's colonial era, have had an enormous impact on western fashion (especially in the US and UK), in the last half-decade. The trend has had an effect on the world of visual arts as well, which circuitously, also heavily impacts fashion design. In fashion, and notably in celebrity apparel choices, this is in part due to ‘identity’ and taking pride in one's African roots; in the visual arts, artists such as Yinka Shonibare and Njideka Akunyili Crosby are making statements about identity politics, colonialism up through post-colonialism, and racism. The ‘global village’ brought on by the internet has driven this proliferation, as have improvements in the printing technology with which the Ankara print is made, combining wax-resist with roller printing. The newest patterns can now be designed authentically in western African and easily sent electronically to Europe for printing. Examples of Ankara's new reach across the Atlantic abound. They have taken several paths, which the paper will detail. Briefly, the first is its greater utilization in the fashion world, from authentic textile shops in African American neighborhoods to copied (knocked-off) low-end reproductions in discount chains. Secondly, we are seeing far more uses of these textiles/patterns in important works of fine arts from major museums, in Philadelphia to Palm Beach to the Mass MOCA (in the US), all the way to the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, and everywhere in between. And lastly, but quite significantly, we see this trend throughout social media thanks to Instagram, Pinterest and celebrity photos –even at the recent royal wedding. What shall sustain this major new design direction is that Ankara changes with and adapts to the times. Some of it is now printed in West Africa, often in the Nigeria area. And some may be designed in Europe or even at knock-off apparel studios in NY or Asia. But it stays utterly relevant because the motifs are based on objects and scenes in everyday life. In my design studio and university design classes, this idea is first and foremost, from our big spiritual eye motifs to drawings of our art supplies to the ‘politically-loaded’ chain patterns. This first-hand creativity experience becomes part of the research of this paper, along with historic and contemporary sources of inquiry, both through a literature/image search and anecdotal experience into what is behind this exciting and surprising trend.

Keywords: African wax print, Ankara, identity (politics), textile design, surface design

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Authors: Jose A. Diaz-Olivares, Nafise Mahdavian, Farhad Abtahi, Kaj Lindecrantz, Abdelakram Hafid, Fernando Seoane

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Despite new recommendations and guidelines for the evaluation of occupational risk assessments and their prevention, work-related musculoskeletal disorders are still one of the biggest causes of work activity disruption, productivity loss, sick leave and chronic work disability. It affects millions of workers throughout Europe, with a large-scale economic and social burden. These specific efforts have failed to produce significant results yet, probably due to the limited availability and high costs of occupational risk assessment at work, especially when the methods are complex, consume excessive resources or depend on self-evaluations and observations of poor accuracy. To overcome these limitations, a pervasive system of risk assessment tools in real time has been developed, which has the characteristics of a systematic approach, with good precision, usability and resource efficiency, essential to facilitate the prevention of musculoskeletal disorders in the long term. The system allows the combination of different wearable sensors, placed on different limbs, to be used for data collection and evaluation by a software solution, according to the needs and requirements in each individual working environment. This is done in a non-disruptive manner for both the occupational health expert and the workers. The creation of this solution allows us to attend different research activities that require, as an essential starting point, the recording of data with ergonomic value of very diverse origin, especially in real work environments. The software platform is here presented with a complimentary smart clothing system for data acquisition, comprised of a T-shirt containing inertial measurement units (IMU), a vest sensorized with textile electronics, a wireless electrocardiogram (ECG) and thoracic electrical bio-impedance (TEB) recorder and a glove sensorized with variable resistors, dependent on the angular position of the wrist. The collected data is processed in real-time through a mobile application software solution, implemented in commercially available Android-based smartphones and tablet platforms. Based on the collection of this information and its analysis, real-time risk assessment and feedback about postural improvement is possible, adapted to different contexts. The result is a tool which provides added value to ergonomists and occupational health agents, as in situ analysis of postural behavior can assist in a quantitative manner in the evaluation of work techniques and the occupational environment.

Keywords: ergonomics, mobile technologies, risk assessment, smart textiles

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Authors: Josiane Yaguibou, Ngoy Kishimba, Issiaka V. Coulibaly, Sabrina Pestilli, Falinirina Razanalison, Hantanirina V. Andremanisa

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Background In Madagascar modern contraceptive prevalence rate increased from 18% in 2003 to 43% in 2021. Anecdotal evidence suggests that increased use and frequent stock out in public health facilities of male condoms and medroxyprogesterone acetate (MPA) can be related to diverted use of these products. This study analyzed the use of contraceptives and mode of utilization (correct or diverted) at the community level in the period 2019-2023 in Madagascar. Methodology: The study included a literature review, a quantitative survey combined with a qualitative study. It was carried out in 10 regions out of the 23 of the country. Eight regions (Bongolava, Vakinakaratra, Italy, Hautre Matsiatra, Betsiboka, Diana, Sofia and Anosy) were selected based on a study that showed existence of medroxyprogesterone acetate in pigs (MPA). The remaining 2 regions were selected due to high mCPR (Atsimo Andrefana) and to ensure coverage of all geographical zones in the country (Alaotra Mangoro). Sample random method was used, and the sample size was identified at 300 individuals per region. Zonal distribution is based on the urbanization rate for the region. 6 focus group discussions were organized in 3 regions, equally distributed between rural and urban areas. Key findings: Overall, 67% of those surveyed or their partner are currently using contraception. Injectables (MPA) are the most popular choice (33%), followed by implants and male condoms, 12% and 9%, respectively. The majority of respondents use condoms to prevent unwanted pregnancy but also to prevent STDs. Still, 43% of respondents use condoms for other purposes, reaching 52% of respondents in urban areas and 71,2% in the age group 15-18. Diverted use includes hair growth (18.9%), as a toy (18.8%), cleaning the screen of electronic devices (10 %), cleaning shoes (3.1%) and for skincare (1.6%). Injectables are the preferred method of contraception both in rural areas (35%) and urban areas (21.2%). However, diverted use of injectables was confirmed by 4% of the respondents, ranging from 3 % in rural areas to 12% in urban. The diverted use of injectables in pig rearing was to avoid pregnancy and facilitate pig’s growth. Program Implications: The study confirmed the diverted use of some contraceptives. The misuse of male condoms is among the causes of stockouts of products in public health facilities, limiting their availability for pregnancy and STDs prevention. The misuse of injectables in pigs rearing needs to be further studied to learn the full extent of the misuse and eventual implications for meat consumption. The study highlights the importance of including messages on the correct use of products during sensibilization activities. In particular, messages need to address the anecdotal and false effects of male condoms, especially amongst young people. For misuse of injectables is critical to sensibilize farmers and veterinaries on possible negative effects for humans.

Keywords: diverted use, injectables, male condoms, sensibilization

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Authors: Sh. Minapoor, S. Ajeli

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Non-crimp three-dimensional (3D) orthogonal carbon fabrics are one of the useful textiles reinforcements in composites. In this paper, flexural and bending properties of a carbon non-crimp 3D orthogonal woven reinforcement are experimentally investigated. The present study is focused on the understanding and measurement of the main bending parameters including flexural stress, strain, and modulus. For this purpose, the three-point bending test method is used and the load-displacement curves are analyzed. The influence of some weave's parameters such as yarn type, geometry of structure, and fiber volume fraction on bending behavior of non-crimp 3D orthogonal carbon fabric is investigated. The obtained results also represent a dataset for the simulation of flexural behavior of non-crimp 3D orthogonal weave carbon composite reinforcement.

Keywords: non-crimp 3D orthogonal weave, carbon composite reinforcement, flexural behavior, three-point bending

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Authors: Eni Puji Astuti

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Yogyakarta has a rich and various form of traditional ornament which can be found on many media. Traditional Ornament has a classical form and being a local identity that can be easily recognized. The retention of traditional ornament can be done in many ways, one of them is aplicating tradisional ornament on modern architecture. This paper is aimed at identifiying the representation of traditional ornament on modern architecture in Yogyakarta. Kawung, parang, tumpal are some of Javaness motifs which often implemented on modern architecture because of their simple and welknown form. The motifs that actually aplicate on textiles ornament, recently often applied on modern architecture as aesthetical element on the facade, interior walls and furniture. The application of traditional ornaments as aesthetic architectural elements provide a strong local identity of Yogyakarta. Traditional ornaments that are applied, no longer refers to the origin local values, norms, and traditions. The form previously be simplified and adapted to the shape of minimalist style of modern architecture.

Keywords: traditional ornament, representation, Yogyakarta, modern architecture

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Authors: Anupreet B. Dugal, Suruchi Mittar

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The research prospect explores fashion as a tool to effectively emancipate the Sikh identity. The study presents information on how fashion has played a critical and visible role in reflecting and helping to construct identities based on religiosity. It discusses the Sikh identity, its’ origin; its continuity and the contemporary ambivalence. Fashion has mostly, if not always been used as a means of establishing identity. This research creates a gateway to discuss the impact that fashion can have on the existing socio-cultural and religious models. The study focuses on the Sikhs, a small community of India with regard to their visual appearance. The research will be based on the case study of 1469, a store infusing Sikhism as a style quotient. Subsequently, in the research framework, a sample study would be conducted with Sikh youth (18-25 years old) hailing from New Delhi, the capital city of India. 1469 formulates a striking case study for examining the relationship between fashion and religious and personal identity.

Keywords: fashion, identity, sikh identity, textiles

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Authors: W. N. L. Mahadi, S. N. Syed Zin, W. A. R. Othman, N. A. Mohd Rasyid, N. Jusoh

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Public concerns on Extremely Low Frequency (ELF) Electromagnetic Field (EMF) exposure have been elongated since the last few decades. Electrical substations and high tension rooms (HT room) in commercial buildings were among the contributing factors emanating ELF magnetic fields. This paper discussed various shielding methods conventionally used in mitigating the ELF exposure. Nevertheless, the standard methods were found to be impractical and incapable of meeting currents shielding demands. In response to that, remarkable researches were conducted in effort to invent novel methods which is more convenient and efficient such as magnetic aqueous shielding or paint, textiles and papers shielding. A mitigation method using magnetic aqueous substrate in shielding application was proposed in this paper for further investigation. using Manganese Zinc Ferrite (Mn0.4Zn0.6Fe2O4). The magnetic field and flux distribution inside the aqueous magnetic material are evaluated to optimize shielding against ELF-EMF exposure, as to mitigate its exposure.

Keywords: ELF shielding, magnetic aqueous substrate, shielding effectiveness, passive shielding, magnetic material

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Authors: Laura Seppälä, Ana Nuutinen

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Environmental concerns are increasing the interest in the potential uses of natural dyes. Natural dyes are more safe and environmentally friendly option than synthetic dyes. However, one must be also cautious with natural dyes, because, for example, some dyestuff such as plants or mushrooms, as well as some mordants are poisonous. By natural dyes we mean dyes that are derived from plants, fungi, bark, lichens, algae, insects, and minerals. Different plant parts, such as stems, leaves, flowers, roots, bark, berries, fruits, and cones, can be utilized for textile dyeing and printing, pigment manufacture, and other processes depending on the season. They may be utilized to produce distinctive colour tones that are challenging to do with synthetic dyes. This adds value to textiles and makes them stand out. Synthetic dyes quickly replaced natural dyes, after being developed in the middle of the 19th century, but natural dyes have remained the dyeing method of crafters until recently. This research examines the commercial solutions for natural dyes in many parts of the world, such as Europe, the United States, South America, Africa, Asia, New Zealand, and Australia. This study aims to determine the commercial status of natural dyes. Each continent has its own traditions and specific dyestuffs. The availability of natural dyes can vary depending on several aspects, including plant species, temperature, and harvesting techniques, which poses a challenge to the work of designers and crafters. While certain plants may only provide dyes during specific seasons, others may do so continuously. To find the ideal time to collect natural dyes, it is critical to research various plant species and their harvesting techniques. Furthermore, to guarantee the quality and colour of the dye, plant material must be handled and processed properly. This research was conducted via an internet search, and results were searched systematically for commercial stakeholders in the field. The research question looked at commercial players in the field of natural dyes. This qualitative case study interpreted the data using thematic analysis. Each webpage was screenshotted and analyzed in reflection on to research question. Online content analysis means systematically coding and analyzing qualitative data. The most evident result was that the natural dyes interest in different parts of the World. There are clothing collections dyed with natural dyes, dyestuff stores, and courses for natural dyeing. This article presents the designers who work with natural dyes and actors who are involved with the natural dye industry. Several websites emphasized the safety and environmental benefits of natural dyes. Many of them included eye-catching images of textiles dyed naturally, and the colours of such dyes are thought to be attractive since they are beautiful and natural hues. The search did not find big-scale industrial solutions for natural dyes, but there were several instances of dyeing with natural dyes. Understanding the players, designers, and stakeholders in the natural dye business is the purpose of this article. The comprehension of the current state of the art illustrates the direction that the natural dye business is currently taking.

Keywords: commercial solutions, environmental issues, key stakeholders, natural dyes, sustainability, textile dyeing

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Authors: Roman Knizek, Denisa Knizkova, Ludmila Fridrichova

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The academic environment in Central Europe has recently been transforming itself and is trying to link its research and development with the private sector. However, compared to Western countries, there is a lack of history and continuity because of the centrally controlled economy from the end of the Second World War until the early 1990s. There are two basic models of how to carry out technology transfer between the academic and the business world. The first is to develop something new and then find a suitable private sector partner; the second is to find a partner who has the basic idea and then develop something new in collaboration. This study, unlike some other ones, describes two specific cases that took place in cooperation with the Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textiles. As was said before, in one case, a product was first developed, and after that, an investor was sought, and in the other case, there was an investor who wanted a specific product and wanted to help with its development. The study describes the various advantages and disadvantages, including a practical example of the creation of a subsequent start-up.

Keywords: start-up, state university, academic environment, licensing agreement

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Authors: Hagar Ezzat, Mostafa Attia, Ahmed Bedeir, Abdelrazek Elnagger, Matija Strlic

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Ethnographic Museum in Cairo- Egypt is a place of valuable collections (manuscripts, paintings, textiles and other ethnographic materials), the museum experiences serious neglecting with unacceptable display and storage conditions, the museum is located in Tahrir sq., which consider a high traffic area where pollution levels exceed the acceptable levels in museums. The materials used in manufacturing the display cases are expected to be source of many pollutants which affecting the sensitive oil paintings objects in the galleries. 24 diffusion tubes (12 No2, So2 & 12 O3) have been used in "winter 2014 and spring 2014" for monitoring museum environment with three cases "outdoor & indoor and in the gallery display". A series of analytical techniques with scientific tools: Ion Chromatography have been used to assess measurements and effects of gas pollutants on the museum which help us to make good assessment for the damage of oil paintings objects and the condition of the museum and understand the effect of the museum environment on the deterioration of the sensitive oil paintings.

Keywords: environment, museum, paintings, ethnographic, conservation

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Authors: Svetlana Gusarova

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The essential role in the recent development of world economy has led to the developing countries, notably to BRICS countries (Brazil, Russia, India, China, South Africa). Over the next 50 years the BRICS countries are expected to be the engines of global trade and economic growth. Trade cooperation of BRICS countries can enhance their economic development. BRICS countries were among Top 10 world exporters of office and telecom equipment, of textiles, of clothing, of iron and steel, of chemicals, of agricultural products, of automotive products, of fuel and mining products. China was one of the main trading partners of all BRICS countries, maintaining close relationship with all BRICS countries in the development of trade. Author analyzed trade complementarity of BRICS countries and revealed the high level of complementarity of their trade flows in connection with availability of specialization in different types of goods. The correlation and regression analysis of communication of Intra-BRICS merchandise turnover and their GDP (PPP) revealed very strong impact on the development of their economies.

Keywords: BRICS countries, trade cooperation, complementarity, regression analysis

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Authors: Chung-Yang Chuang, Hui-Min Wang, Min-Yan Dong, Chang-Jung Chang

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PET fiber is the most widely used fiber worldwide. This man-made fiber is prepared from petroleum chemicals, which may cause environmental pollution and resource exhausting issues, such as the use of non-renewable sources, greenhouse gas emission and discharge of wastewater. Therefore, the textile made by recycle-PET is the trend in the future. Recycle-PET fiber, compared with petroleum-made PET, shows lower carbon emissions and resource exhaustion. However, “fabric decoloring” is the key barrier to textile recycling. The dyes existing in the fabrics may cause PET chain degradation and appearance drawbacks during the textile recycling process. In this research, the water-based decoloring agent was used to remove the dispersed dye in the PET fabrics in order to obtain the colorless PET fabrics after the decoloring process. The decoloring rate of PET fabrics after the decoloring process was up to 99.0%. This research provides a better solution to resolve the issues of appearance and physical properties degradation of fabrics-recycle PET materials due to the residual dye. It may be possible to convert waste PET textiles into new high-quality PET fiber and build up the loop of PET textile recycling.

Keywords: PET, decoloring, disperse dye, textile recycle

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Authors: Tiziana Ferrero-Regis, Marissa Lindquist

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Circular Economy (CE) is increasingly seen as the reorganisation of production and consumption, and cities are acknowledged as the sources of many ecological and social problems; at the same time, they can be re-imagined through an ecologically and socially resilient future. The concept of the CE has received pointed critiques for its techno-deterministic orientation, focus on science and transformation by the policy. At the heart of our local re-imagining of the CE into circularity through contact zones there is the acknowledgment of collective, spontaneous and shared imaginations of alternative and sustainable futures through the creation of networks of community initiatives that are transformative, creating opportunities that simultaneously make cities rich and enrich humans. This paper presents a mapping project of the fashion and textile ecosystem in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. Brisbane is currently the most aspirational city in Australia, as its population growth rate is the highest in the country. Yet, Brisbane is considered the least “fashion city” in the country. In contrast, the project revealed a greatly enhanced picture of distinct fashion and textile clusters across greater Brisbane and the adjacency of key services that may act to consolidate CE community contact zones. Clusters to the north of Brisbane and several locales to the south are zones of a greater mix between public/social amenities, walkable zones and local transport networks with educational precincts, community hubs, concentration of small enterprises, designers, artisans and waste recovery centers that will help to establish knowledge of key infrastructure networks that will support enmeshing these zones together. The paper presents two case studies of independent designers who work on new and re-designed clothing through recovering pre-consumer textiles and that operate from within creative precincts. The first case is designer Nelson Molloy, who recently returned to the inner city suburb of West End with their Chasing Zero Design project. The area was known in the 1980s and 1990s for its alternative lifestyle with creative independent production, thrifty clothing shops, alternative fashion and a socialist agenda. After 30 years of progressive gentrification of the suburb, which has dislocated many of the artists, designers and artisans, West End is seeing the return and amplification of clusters of artisans, artists, designers and architects. The other case study is Practice Studio, located in a new zone of creative growth, Bowen Hills, north of the CBD. Practice Studio combines retail with a workroom, offers repair and remaking services, becoming a point of reference for young and emerging Australian designers and artists. The paper demonstrates the spatial politics of the CE and the way in which new cultural capital is produced thanks to cultural specificities and resources. It argues for the recognition of contact zones that are created by local actors, communities and knowledge networks, whose grass-roots agency is fundamental for the co-production of CE’s systems of local governance.

Keywords: contact zones, circular citities, fashion and textiles, circular neighbourhoods, australia

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Authors: Semra Çoruh, Yusuf Tibet

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Dyes are widely used in industries such as textiles, paper, paints, leather, rubber, plastics, cosmetics, food, and drug etc, to color their products. Due to their chemical structures, dyes are resistant to fading on exposure to light, water and many chemicals and, therefore, are difficult to be decolorized once released into the aquatic environment. Many of the organic dyes are hazardous and may affect aquatic life and even the food chain. This study deals with the adsorption of malachite green dye onto fly ash and red mud. The effects of experimental factors (adsorbent dosage, initial concentration, pH and temperature) on the adsorption process were examined by using 24 full factorial design. The results were statistically analyzed by using the student’s t-test, analysis of variance (ANOVA) and an F-test to define important experimental factors and their levels. A regression model that considers the significant main and interaction effects was suggested. The results showed that initial dye concentration an pH is the most significant factor that affects the removal of malachite green.

Keywords: malachite green, adsorption, red mud, fly ash, full factorial design

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Authors: Adinda Syifa Azhari, Eleonora Agustine, Dini Fitriani

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This measurement has been done to analyze the impact of industrial pollution on the environment. Our research is to indicate the soil which has contained some pollution by industrial activity around the area, especially in Sumedang, West Java. The parameter phsyics such as total dissolved solid, volumetric water content, electrical conductivity bulk and FD have shown that the soil has polluted and measured by Decagon EM 50. Decagon EM 50 is one of the geophysical environment instrumentation that is used to interpret the soil condition. This experiment has given a result of these parameter physics, these are: Volumetric water content (m³/m³) = 0,154 – 0,384; Electrical Conductivity Bulk (dS/m) = 0,29 – 1,11 ; Dielectric Permittivity (DP) = 77,636 – 78, 339.Based on these data, we have got the conclusion that the area has, in fact, been contaminated by dangerous materials. VWC is parameter physics that has shown water in soil. The data show the pollution of the soil at the place, of which the specifications are PH, Total Dissolved Solid (TDS), Electrical Conductivity (EC) bigger (>>) and Frequency Dependent (FD) smaller (<<); that means the soil is alkali with big grain and has high salt concentration.

Keywords: Decagon EM 50, electrical conductivity, industrial textiles, land, pollution

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Authors: Urvah-Til-Vusqa, Unsa Noreen, Ayesha Hussain, Abdul Hafeez, Rafia Asghar, Sidrat Nasir

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Natural dyes offer an alternative better application in textiles than synthetic ones. The present study will be aimed to employ natural dye extracted from Cordyline terminalis plant and its application into viscose under the influence of gamma radiations. The colorant extraction will be done by boiling dracaena leaves powder in aqueous, alkaline and ethyl acetate mediums. Both dye powder and fabric will be treated with different doses (5-20 kGy) of gamma radiations. The antioxidant, antimicrobial and hemolytic activities of the extracts will also be determined. Different tests of fabric characterization (before and after radiations treatment) will be employed. Dyeing variables just as time, temperature and M: L will be applied for optimization. Standard methods for ISO to evaluate color fastness to light, washing and rubbing will be employed for improvement of color strength 1.5-15.5% of Al, Fe, Cr, and Cu as mordants will be employed through pre, post and meta mordanting. Color depth % & L*, a*, b* and L*, C*, h values will be recorded using spectra flash SF650.

Keywords: natural dyes, gamma radiations, Cordyline terminalis, ecofriendly dyes

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Authors: Galina Mihaleva, C. Koh

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Fashion, like many other design fields, undergoes numerous evolutions throughout the ages. This paper aims to recognize and evaluate the significance of advance technology in fashion design and examine how it changes the role of modern fashion designers by modifying the creation process. It also touches on how modern culture is involved in such developments and how it affects fashion design in terms of conceptualizing and fabrication. The methodology used is through surveying the various examples of technological applications to fashion design and drawing parallels between what was achievable then and what is achievable now. By comparing case studies, existing fashion design examples and crafting method experimentations; we then spot patterns in which to predict the direction of future developments in the field. A breakdown on the elements of technology in fashion design helps us understand the driving force behind such a trend. The results from explorations in the paper have shown that there is an observed pattern of a distinct increase in interest and progress in the field of fashion technology, which leads to the birth of hybrid crafting methods. In conclusion, it is shown that as fashion technology continues to evolve, their role in clothing crafting becomes more prominent and grows far beyond the humble sewing machine.

Keywords: fashion design, functional aesthetics, smart textiles, 3D printing

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Authors: D. Benmoussa, H. Hannache, O. Cherkaoui

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In textiles, the major interest in microencapsulation is currently in the application of durable fragrances, skin softeners, phase-change materials, antimicrobial agents and drug delivery systems onto textile materials. In our research “Polyethylene Glycol” was applied as phase change material and it was encapsulated in polymethacrylic acid (PMA) by radical polymerization in suspension of methacrylic acid in presence of N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide (MBAM) as crosslinking agent. Thereafter the obtained microcapsule was modified by amidation with ethylenediamine as a spacer molecule. At the end of this spacer trichlorotriazine reactive group was fixed. Microcapsules were grafted onto cotton textile substrate. The surface morphologies of the microencapsulated phase change materials (micro PCMs) were studied by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Thermal properties, thermal reliabilities and thermal stabilities of the as-prepared micro PCMs were investigated by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravmetric analysis (TGA). The results obtained show the obtaining microcapsules with a mean diameter of 10 µm and the resistance of the microcapsules is demonstrated by thermal analysis.

Keywords: energy storage, microencapsulation, phase-change materials, thermogravmetric analysis (TGA)

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Authors: Rajkishore Nayak, Tarun Panwar, Majo George

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The study focuses on investigating the factors that influence the growth of fashion and textile manufacturing in the Sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) countries. This paper endeavours to identify, analyse and evaluate the critical factors associated with the growth of fashion and textile manufacturing in SSA countries. This research has done a Strength, Weakness, Opportunity, and Threat (SWOT) analysis based on the available literature and the knowledge of authors in garment manufacturing and export. It was found that the SSA countries have shown little growth in fashion and textile manufacturing and export from the starting of the year 2000. Unlike the developing countries such as Vietnam and Bangladesh, the total export to the US, the EU and other parts of the world has declined. On the other hand, the total supply of fashion and textiles to the domestic market has been in rise. However, the local communities still need to rely on other countries to meet their demand. Availability of cheaper imported clothes from other countries such as Bangladesh, China and Vietnam have made it difficult for the local manufacturers to produce at a cheaper price.

Keywords: Sub-Saharan Africa, developing countries, apparel industry, fashion and textile, sustainable fashion

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Authors: Ahmad Yame, Ahad Ali, Badih Jawad, Daw Al-Werfalli Mohamed Nasser, Sabah Abro

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Industries in general have a lot of waste. Wool textile company, Baniwalid, Libya has many complex problems that led to enormous waste generated due to the lack of lean strategies, expertise, technical support and commitment. To successfully address waste at wool textile company, this study will attempt to develop a methodical approach that integrates lean manufacturing tools to optimize performance characteristics such as lead time and delivery. This methodology will utilize Value Stream Mapping (VSM) techniques to identify the process variables that affect production. Once these variables are identified, Design of Experiments (DOE) Methodology will be used to determine the significantly influential process variables, these variables are then controlled and set at their optimal to achieve optimal levels of productivity, quality, agility, efficiency and delivery to analyze the outputs of the simulation model for different lean configurations. The goal of this research is to investigate how the tools of lean manufacturing can be adapted from the discrete to the continuous manufacturing environment and to evaluate their benefits at a specific industrial.

Keywords: lean manufacturing, DOE, value stream mapping, textiles

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Authors: Jana Pichova, Lubos Hes, Vladimir Bajzik

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Protective clothing is designed to keep a wearer save in hazardous conditions or enable perform short time working operation without being injured or feeling discomfort. Firefighters or other related workers are exposed to abnormal heat which can be conductive, convective or radiant type. Their garment is proposed to resist this conditions and prevent burn injuries or dead of human. However thermal comfort of firefighter exposed to high heat source have not been studied yet. Thermal resistance is the best representative parameter of thermal comfort. In this study a new method of testing of thermal resistance of special clothing exposed to high radiation heat source was designed. This method simulates human body wearing single or multi-layered garment which is exposed to radiative heat. Setup of this method enables measuring of radiative heat flow in time without effect of convection. The new testing method is verified on chosen group of textiles for firefighters.

Keywords: protective clothing, radiative heat, thermal comfort of firefighters, thermal resistance of special garments

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Authors: Tamer Mokhtar Mohamed Ahmed

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Throughout the ages the Caliphs, Sultans and rulers have paid great care to tomb covers and in particular to the cover of the tomb of the Prophet Muhammad as well as other prophets. For that purpose they established waqfs and ensured that the covers appeared in the most magnificent manner to befit their purpose, as we can see in the beautiful examples in museums across the world. In fact tomb covers are some of the most beautiful examples of Islamic art in their detail of craftsmanship which have made them great works of art. It became the custom that the Kiswa or the tomb covers were made of silk or satin with gold and silver threads. Museums across the word preserve examples of the highest craftsmanship of tomb covers produced in the capital of the Ottomans and other capital cities, all differing in their designs or colors reflecting the work of the individual cities like Cairo, Istanbul or Bursa. Other than the cover for the tomb of the Prophet, many other tomb covers were produced for the tombs of other prophets and their wives in Hebron. In addition tomb covers were made for the sufi saints as well as for the Ottoman sultans and for their wives and children. In this paper I will Study the Kiswa or the tomb covers in Ottoman period.

Keywords: kiswa, ottoman period, textiles, silk, tomb of the Prophet Muhammad

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Authors: Muhammad Ahmad

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In this research, Chrysanthemum (morifolium) flowers are used as a natural dye to reduce synthetic dyes and take a step toward sustainability in the fashion industry. The aqueous extraction method is utilized for natural dye extraction and then applied to silk and cotton fabric samples. The color of the dye extracted from dried chrysanthemum flowers is originally a shade of rich green, but after being washed with detergent, it turns to a shade of yellow. Traditional salt and vinegar are used as a natural mordant to fix the dye color. This study also includes a phenolic and chemical analysis of the natural dye (Chrysanthemum flowers) and the textiles (cotton and silk). Compared to cotton fabric, silk fabric has far superior chemical qualities to use in natural dyeing. The results of this study show that the Chrysanthemum flower offers a variety of colors when treated with detergent, without detergent, and with mordants. Chrysanthemum flowers have long been used in other fields, such as medicine; therefore, it is time to start using them in the fashion industry as a natural dye to lessen the harm that synthetic dyes cause.

Keywords: natural dyes, Chrysanthemum flower, sustainability, textile fabrics, chemical and phenolic analysis

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Authors: Adetoun Adedotun Amubode

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Nigeria's Textile Industry was the second largest in Africa after Egypt, with above 250 vibrant factories and over 50 percent capacity utilization contributing to foreign exchange earnings and employment generation. Currently, multifaceted challenges such as epileptic power supply, inconsistent government policies, growing digitalization, smuggling of foreign textiles, insecurity and the inability of the local industries to compete with foreign products, especially Chinese textile, has created a hostile environment for the sector. This led to the closure of most of the textile industries. China's textile industry has experienced institutional change and industrial restructuring, having 30% of the world's market share. This paper examined the strategies adopted by China in transforming her textile and clothing industries and designed a model for the integration of these strategies to improve the competitive strength and growth of the Nigerian textile and clothing industries in a dynamic and changing market. The paper concludes that institutional support, regional production, export-oriented policy, value-added and branding cultivation, technological upgrading and enterprise resource planning be integrated into the Nigerian clothing and textile industries.

Keywords: clothing, industry, integration, Nigerian, textile, transformation.

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Authors: Imtiaz Ahmed Khan, Sabu John, Sania Waqar, Lijing Wang, Mac Fergusson, Ilija Najdovski

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Evolution of textiles, from its orthodox to more interactive role has stirred the researchers to uncover its application in numerous arenas. The idea of using textile based materials for wearable energy harvesting and storage devices have gained immense popularity. This is mainly due to textile comfort and flexibility features. In this work, nano-carbonous materials were infused on cellulosic fibers using caustic soda treatment. This paper presents the complete procedure of yarn supercapacitors fabrication process through dip coating technique and its characterization method. The main objective is to study, the effect of varying caustic soda concentration on mass loading of activated carbon on yarns and the related capacitance output of the designed yarn supercapacitor. Polyvinyl alcohol and Phosphoric acid were used as electrolyte in a two-electrode cell assembly to measure device electrochemical performance. The results show a promising increase in capacitance value using this technique.

Keywords: yarn supercapacitors, activated carbon, dip coating, caustic soda, electrolyte, electrochemical characterization

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Authors: Abas Mohsenzadeh, Tariq Bashir, Waseen Tahir, Ulf Stigh, Mikael Skrifvars, Kim Bolton

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The area of artificial muscles has received significant attention from many research domains including soft robotics, biomechanics and smart textiles in recent years. Poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) has been used to form artificial muscles since it contracts upon heating when under load. In this study, PVDF fibers were produced by melt spinning technique at different solid state draw ratios and then actuation mechanism for PVDF tie molecules within the semicrystalline region of PVDF polymer has been investigated using molecular dynamics simulations. Tie molecules are polymer chains that link two (or more) crystalline regions in semicrystalline polymers. The changes in fiber length upon heating have been investigated using a novel simulation technique. The results show that conformational changes of the tie molecules from the longer all-trans conformation at low temperature (β structure) to the shorter conformation (α structure) at higher temperature accrue by increasing the temperature. These results may be applied to understand the actuation observed for PVDF upon heating.

Keywords: poly(vinylidene fluoride), molecular dynamics, simulation, actuators, tie molecules, semicrystalline

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Authors: Hassiba Bougueria, Nesrine Benarous, Souheyla Chetioui

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Azo dyes are one of the most widely used compounds in organic chemistry, primarily due to their relatively simple preparation methods. They have therefore been widely used, in particular as colorants for textiles, printing inks, cosmetics, and food additives. In addition to their use as dyes, azo compounds have attracted much attention from chemists as their potential applications are important in coordination chemistry, metal-organic frameworks (MOF) structures, COF (covalent-organic frameworks), and catalysis. Moreover, they have found many applications in different fields, such as nonlinear optics, optical storage, photoluminescence, and magnetism. The compound bis{(E)-1-[(2,4,6-tribromophenyl)diazenyl]naphthalen-2-olato}copper(II) dimethyl sulfoxide monosolvate, the CuII atom is tetracoordinate with a square-planar geometry, surrounded by two bidentate (E)-1-[(2,4,6-tribromophenyl)diazenyl]naphthalene-2-olate ligands via two N atoms and two O atoms. The O-Cu-O angles and N-Cu-N are of the order of 177.90(16)° and 177.8(2)°, respectively. The distances Cu-O and Cu- N are 1.892(4) Å and 1.976(4) Å, respectively. The cohesion of the crystal is ensured by hydrogen bonds of the C—H…O type and by π=π staking interactions [centroid–centroid distance = 3.679(4)Å]. The DMSO solvent molecule is disordered at two positions with occupancy rates of 0.70 and 0.30.

Keywords: azo dyes, DRX, structural characterization, biological activity

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Authors: Lucyna Kapka-Skrzypczak, Barbara Sochanowicz, Magdalena Matysiak-Kucharek, Magdalena Czajka, Krzysztof Sawicki, Marcin Kruszewski

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Due to the strong antimicrobial activity silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) are widely used in various medical and general applications, among others, in cosmetics, odour resistant textiles, etc. The aim of this study was to compare effect of AgNPs and gold NPs (AuNPs) on histones posttranslational modifications. Histone molecule posttranscriptional modifications are responsible for chromatin compaction and repackaging. In this study, BALB/c mice were inoculated with murine mammary carcinoma 4T1 cells and treated with AgNPs coated with citrate (AgNPs(cit) or PEG (AgNPs(PEG), or AuNPs. Thereafter the histone H3 acetylation on Lys9 and H3 methylation on Lys4, Lys9, Lys29 was investigated. All NPs tested decreased H3 methylation, while no effect was observed for H3 acetylation. Modification of histone H3 methylation dependent on type of NPs used its coating, site of methylation and treatment used. Conclusion, epigenetic effects of nanomaterials depend on nanomaterial composition, its coating, and way of application. This work was supported by National Science Centre grant No. 2014/15/B/NZ7/01036 (MK, LKS, MMK, MC, KS), statutory funding for INTC (BS).

Keywords: gold nanoparticles, histone, methylation, silver nanoparticles

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Authors: Luciana Marrone

Abstract:

Natural dyes are a great resource for today's artists and designers providing endless possibilities for design and sustainability. This research and development project focuses on the idea of making these dyeing or painting methodologies reach the widest possible range of students. The main objective is to inform and train, free of charge, teachers and students from different academic institutions, at different levels, kindergarten, primary, secondary, tertiary and university. In this research and dissemination project, in the first instance, institutions from Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Mexico, Spain, Italy, Colombia, Paraguay, Venezuela, Brazil and Australia joined the project, reaching the grassroots of education from the very beginning. Natural dyes will become part of everyday life for more people, achieving their own colors for art, textiles or any other application. The knowledge of the techniques and resources of the student a fundamental tool, sustainable and opens endless possibilities even in places or homes with few economic resources, thus achieving that natural dyes are not only part of the world of designers but also that they are incorporated from the basics and can thus become a resource applicable in different areas even in places with few economic or development possibilities.

Keywords: art, education, natural dyes, sustainability, textile design.

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