World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology

Authors: Chongyang Ye, Rong Liu

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Compression textiles such as compression stockings (CSs) have been extensively applied for the prevention and treatment of chronic venous insufficiency of lower extremities. The involvement of multiple mechanical factors such as interface pressure, frictional force, and elastic materials make the interactions between lower limb and CSs to be complex. Determination of Poisson’s ratio and elastic moduli of CS materials are critical for constructing finite element (FE) modeling to numerically simulate a complex interactive system of CS and lower limb. In this study, a mixed approach, including an analytic model based on the orthotropic Hooke’s Law and experimental study (uniaxial tension testing and pure shear testing), has been proposed to determine Young’s modulus, Poisson’s ratio, and shear modulus of CS fabrics. The results indicated a linear relationship existing between the stress and strain properties of the studied CS samples under controlled stretch ratios (< 100%). The newly proposed method and the determined key mechanical properties of elastic orthotropic CS fabrics facilitate FE modeling for analyzing in-depth the effects of compression material design on their resultant biomechanical function in compression therapy.

Keywords: elastic compression stockings, Young’s modulus, Poisson’s ratio, shear modulus, mechanical analysis

Procedia PDF Downloads 85

Authors: Lucija Pustahija, Christine Bandl, Wolfgang Kern, Christian Mitterer

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Concerning today´s ecological demands, producing reliable materials from sustainable resources is a continuously developing topic. Such an example is the production of carbon materials via pyrolysis of natural gases or biomass. The amazing properties of pyrolytic carbon are utilized in various fields, where in particular the application in building industry is a promising way towards the utilization of pyrolytic carbon and composites based on pyrolytic carbon. For many applications, surface modification of carbon is an important step in tailoring its properties. Therefore, in this paper, an investigation of different oxidation methods was performed to prepare the carbon surface before functionalizing it with organosilanes, which act as coupling agents for epoxy and polyurethane resins. Made in such a way, a building material based on carbon composites could be used as a lightweight, durable material that can be applied where water or air filtration / purification is needed. In this work, both wet and dry oxidation were investigated. Wet oxidation was first performed in solutions of nitric acid (at 120 °C and 150 °C) followed by oxidation in hydrogen peroxide (80 °C) for 3 and 6 h. Moreover, a hydrothermal method (under oxygen gas) in autoclaves was investigated. Dry oxidation was performed under plasma and corona discharges, using different power values to elaborate optimum conditions. Selected samples were then (in preliminary experiments) subjected to a silanization of the surface with amino and glycidoxy organosilanes. The functionalized surfaces were examined by X-ray photon spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy spectroscopy, and by scanning electron microscopy. The results of wet and dry oxidation methods indicated that the creation of functionalities was influenced by temperature, the concentration of the reagents (and gases) and the duration of the treatment. Sequential oxidation in aq. HNO₃ and H₂O₂ results in a higher content of oxygen functionalities at lower concentrations of oxidizing agents, when compared to oxidizing the carbon with concentrated nitric acid. Plasma oxidation results in non-permanent functionalization on the carbon surface, by which it´s necessary to find adequate parameters of oxidation treatments that could enable longer stability of functionalities. Results of the functionalization of the carbon surfaces with organosilanes will be presented as well.

Keywords: building materials, dry oxidation, organosilanes, pyrolytic carbon, resins, surface functionalization, wet oxidation

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Authors: Amar Boukerrou, Ouerdia Belhadj, Dalila Hammiche, Jean Francois Gerard, Jannick Rumeau

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The main goal of this study is the investigation of alfa fiber content, treated with alkali treatment, on the thermal and mechanical properties of epoxy-amine matrix-based composites. The fibers were treated with 5% of sodium hydroxide solution and varied between 10% to 30% weight fractions. The tensile, flexural, and hardness tests are carried out to investigate the mechanical properties of composites. The results show those composites’ mechanical properties are higher than the neat epoxy-amine. It was noticed that the alkali treatment is more effective in the case of the tensile and flexural modulus than the tensile and flexural strength. The decline of both the tensile and flexural behavior of all composites with the increasing of the filler content was due probably to the random dispersion of the fibers in the epoxy resin The Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) was employed to analyze the chemical structure of epoxy resin before and after curing with amine hardener. FTIR and DSC analysis confirmed that epoxy resin was completely cured with amine hardener at room temperature. SEM analysis has highlighted the microstructure of epoxy matrix and its composites.

Keywords: alfa fiber, epoxy resin, alkali treatment, mechanical properties

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Authors: Dalila Hammiche, Lisa Klaai, Amar Boukerrou

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Following this trend, natural fiber reinforcements have been gaining importance in the composites sector. The effectiveness of natural fiber–reinforced PLA composite as an alternative material to substitute the non-renewable petroleum-based materials has been examined by researchers. In this study, we investigated the physicochemical, particle size and distribution, and thermal behavior of prickly pear seed flour (PPSF). Then, composites were manufactured with 20% in PPSF. Thermal, morphological, and mechanical properties have been studied, and water absorption tests as well. The characterization of this fiber has shown that cellulose is the majority constituent (30%), followed by hemicellulose (27%). To improve the fiber-matrix adhesion, the PPS was chemically treated with alkali treatment. The addition of PPSF decreases the thermal properties, and the study of the mechanical properties showed that the increase in the fiber content from 0 to 20% increased Young’s modulus. According to the results, the mechanical and thermal behaviors of composites are improved after fiber treatment. However, there is an increase in water absorption of composites compared to the PLA matrix. The moisture sensitivity of natural fiber composites limits their use in structural applications. Degradation of the fiber-matrix interface is likely to occur when the material is subjected to variable moisture conditions.

Keywords: biopolymer, composites, alcali treatment, mechanical properties

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Authors: Tiziana Ferrero-Regis, Marissa Lindquist

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Circular Economy (CE) is increasingly seen as the reorganisation of production and consumption, and cities are acknowledged as the sources of many ecological and social problems; at the same time, they can be re-imagined through an ecologically and socially resilient future. The concept of the CE has received pointed critiques for its techno-deterministic orientation, focus on science and transformation by the policy. At the heart of our local re-imagining of the CE into circularity through contact zones there is the acknowledgment of collective, spontaneous and shared imaginations of alternative and sustainable futures through the creation of networks of community initiatives that are transformative, creating opportunities that simultaneously make cities rich and enrich humans. This paper presents a mapping project of the fashion and textile ecosystem in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. Brisbane is currently the most aspirational city in Australia, as its population growth rate is the highest in the country. Yet, Brisbane is considered the least “fashion city” in the country. In contrast, the project revealed a greatly enhanced picture of distinct fashion and textile clusters across greater Brisbane and the adjacency of key services that may act to consolidate CE community contact zones. Clusters to the north of Brisbane and several locales to the south are zones of a greater mix between public/social amenities, walkable zones and local transport networks with educational precincts, community hubs, concentration of small enterprises, designers, artisans and waste recovery centers that will help to establish knowledge of key infrastructure networks that will support enmeshing these zones together. The paper presents two case studies of independent designers who work on new and re-designed clothing through recovering pre-consumer textiles and that operate from within creative precincts. The first case is designer Nelson Molloy, who recently returned to the inner city suburb of West End with their Chasing Zero Design project. The area was known in the 1980s and 1990s for its alternative lifestyle with creative independent production, thrifty clothing shops, alternative fashion and a socialist agenda. After 30 years of progressive gentrification of the suburb, which has dislocated many of the artists, designers and artisans, West End is seeing the return and amplification of clusters of artisans, artists, designers and architects. The other case study is Practice Studio, located in a new zone of creative growth, Bowen Hills, north of the CBD. Practice Studio combines retail with a workroom, offers repair and remaking services, becoming a point of reference for young and emerging Australian designers and artists. The paper demonstrates the spatial politics of the CE and the way in which new cultural capital is produced thanks to cultural specificities and resources. It argues for the recognition of contact zones that are created by local actors, communities and knowledge networks, whose grass-roots agency is fundamental for the co-production of CE’s systems of local governance.

Keywords: contact zones, circular citities, fashion and textiles, circular neighbourhoods, australia

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Authors: Natalia Fijol, Aji P. Mathew

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We present the processing and characterisation of three-dimensional (3D) monolith filters based on polylactic acid (PLA) reinforced with various nature-derived nanospecies such as hydroxyapatite, modified cellulose fibers and chitin fibers. The nanospecies of choice were dispersed in PLA through Thermally Induced Phase Separation (TIPS) method. The biocomposites were developed via solvent-assisted blending and the obtained pellets were further single-screw extruded into 3D-printing filaments and processed into various geometries using Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM) technique. The printed prototypes included cubic, cylindrical and hour-glass shapes with diverse patterns of printing infill as well as varying pore structure including uniform and multiple level gradual pore structure. The pores and channel structure as well as overall shape of the prototypes were designed in attempt to optimize the flux and maximize the adsorption-active time. FDM is a cost and energy-efficient method, which does not require expensive tools and elaborated post-processing maintenance. Therefore, FDM offers the possibility to produce customized, highly functional water purification filters with tuned porous structures suitable for removal of wide range of common water pollutants. Moreover, as 3D printing becomes more and more available worldwide, it allows producing portable filters at the place and time where they are most needed. The study demonstrates preparation route for the PLA-based, fully biobased composite and their processing via FDM technique into water purification filters, addressing water treatment challenges on an industrial scale.

Keywords: fused deposition modelling, water treatment, biomaterials, 3D printing, nanocellulose, nanochitin, polylactic acid

Procedia PDF Downloads 89

Authors: Lucky Farha, Martha L. Hall

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The current adaptive clothing brands are limited in numbers and specific categories. This study explores clothing challenges for children with Down syndrome and factors that influence their perception of adaptive clothing brands. Another aim of this study was to explore brands' challenges in the adaptive business and factors that influence their perceptions towards the adaptive market. In order to determine the market barriers affecting adaptive target market needs, the researcher applied Technology Acceptance Model. After interviewing and surveying parents/caregivers having children with Down syndrome and current adaptive brands, the results found education as the significant gap in the adaptive clothing market yet to be overcome. Based on the finding, several recommendations were suggested to improve the current barriers in the adaptive clothing market.

Keywords: adaptive fashion, disability, functional clothing, clothing needs assessment, down syndrome, clothing challenge

Procedia PDF Downloads 103

Authors: C. Sánchez de Rojas Candela, A. Riquelme, P. Rodrigo, M. D. Escalera-Rodríguez, B. Torres, J. Rams

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Selective laser melting is one of the most commonly used AM techniques. In it, a thin layer of metallic powder is deposited, and a laser is used to melt selected zones. The accumulation of layers, each one molten in the preselected zones, gives rise to the formation of a 3D sample with a nearly arbitrary design. To ensure that the properties of the final parts match those of the powder, all the process is carried out in an inert atmosphere, preferentially Ar, although this gas could be substituted. Ti6Al4V alloy is widely used in multiple industrial applications such as aerospace, maritime transport and biomedical, due to its properties. However, due to the demanding requirements of these applications, greater hardness and wear resistance are necessary, together with a better machining capacity, which currently limits its commercialization. To improve these properties, in this study, Selective Laser Melting (SLM) is used to manufacture Ti/TiN metal matrix composites with in-situ and ex-situ titanium nitride reinforcement where the scanning speed is modified (from 28.5 up to 65 mm/s) to study the influence of the processing parameters in SLM. A one-step method of nitriding the Ti6Al4V alloy is carried out to create in-situ TiN reinforcement in a reactive atmosphere and it is compared with ex-situ composites manufactured by previous mixture of both the titanium alloy powder and the ceramic reinforcement particles. The microstructure and mechanical properties of the different Ti/TiN composite materials have been analyzed. As a result, the existence of a similar matrix has been confirmed in in-situ and ex-situ fabrications and the growth mechanisms of the nitrides have been studied. An increase in the mechanical properties with respect to the initial alloy has been observed in both cases and related to changes in their microstructure. Specifically, a greater improvement (around 30.65%) has been identified in those manufactured by the in-situ method at low speeds although other properties such as porosity must be improved for their future industrial applicability.

Keywords: in-situ reinforcement, nitriding reaction, selective laser melting, titanium nitride

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Authors: Hossam El-Sayed Emam

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As an essential issue for life, water while it’s important for all living organisms. However, the world is dangerously facing the serious problem for the deficiency of the sources of drinking water. Within the aquatic systems, there are various gases, microbes, and other toxic ingredients (chemical compounds and heavy metals) occurred owing to the draining of agricultural and industrial wastewater, resulting in water pollution. On the other hand, fuel (gaseous, liquid, or in solid phase) is one of the extensively consumable energy sources, and owing to its origin from fossil, it contains some sulfur-, nitrogen- and oxygen-based compounds that cause serious problems (toxicity, catalyst poisoning, corrosion, and gum formation andcarcinogenic effects), to be ascribed as undesirable pollutants.MOFs as porous coordinating polymers are superiorly exploited in the adsorption and separationof contaminants for wastewater treatment and fuel purification. The inclusion of highly adsorbent materials like MOFs to be immobilized within cellulosic materialscould be investigated as a new challenge for the separation of contaminants with high efficiency and opportunity for recyclability. Therefore, the current approach ascribes the exploitation of different MOFsimmobilized within cellulose (powder, films, and fabrics)for applications in environmental. Herein, using cellulose containing MOFs in dye removal (degradation and adsorption), pharmaceutical intermediates removal, and fuel purification were summarized.

Keywords: cellulose, MOFs, dye removal, pharmaceutical intermediates, fuel purification

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Authors: Sarah Alkhateeb

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This research explores the Jordanian traditional dress of women as a form of cultural heritage. The dress of the Jordanian woman expresses her social and cultural functions and reflects the local environment in its social and cultural frameworks and the determinants of the natural formation of climate and terrain, in addition to what is expressed by the person’s social status and position in the social ladder of any society. Therefore, the traditional dress of Jordanian women is distinguished by its abundance and diversity. Few studies have been conducted on the Jordanian traditional dress of women, the lack of studies about the Jordanian traditional dress of women needs highlighting and the characteristics of this dress have to be featured and documented as a part of cultural heritage. The main aim of this research is to contribute or to develop a conservation strategy to save this part of cultural heritage from loss. In this research, the qualitative method approach will be used and will follow the ethnographic method. The data will be gathered from a primary source which is the single focus group discussion with the TIRAZ museum team; the Jordanian traditional dress will be explored across three regions: The North, Middle and South of Jordan, investigating the regional differences and focusing on the details of the individual garment.

Keywords: Jordanian traditional dress, cultural heritage, tiraz museum, ethnographic method

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Authors: Vaishali Joshi

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In the past, companies and buyers operated as if there was infinite availability of natural resources for usage, which has resulted in the loss of our globe's natural ecosystem. People's consciousness of ecological concerns had increased, which showed the way for the evolution of the green revolution with the objective of discontinuing the use of products that are harmful to the ecosystem of the earth. This green revolution has made the consumers head toward those companies which are providing eco-friendly products s/service s through less eco-harmful ways. Studies show that companies started gaining a reputation in the market through their eco-friendly activities in their business. Hence companies should be alert to understand the consumer's environmentally friendly consumption behavior to survive and be in the game of the competition. Green marketing efforts guarantee beneficial exchanges without harmful consequences for current and /or upcoming generations. This hits the green policies of those companies which are claiming environmental concern. This means that these companies not only focus on the impact of their production and products on the ecosystem but also on every small activity in their value chain. One of the most ignored parts of the value chain is the medium through which the marketing of products/services is done. These companies should also take into account to what degree their selection of advertising media affects the ecosystem of the earth. In this study, a hypothetical fashion apparel brand known as "Dolphin" will be studied. In particular, the following objectives are framed: i) to study the brand attitude of the given fashion brand due to its selection of eco-friendly advertising medium ii) to study the advertisement attitude of the given fashion brand due to its selection of eco-friendly advertising medium and iii) to study the purchase intention of the given fashion brand due to its selection of eco-friendly advertising medium. An online experiment will be conducted. Respondents between the ages of 20-and 64 years will be selected randomly from the online consumer panel database. The findings of this study will have a great impact on the companies that are claiming environmental concerns by understanding how the advertising media is affecting the company’s brand image in the long run.

Keywords: eco-friendly advertising media, fashion, attitude, purchase intention

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Authors: Steadyman Chikumba, Vasudeva Vereedhi Rao

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This paper reports on the synthesis of FeCrCoNiZn and its characterisation using SEM and nanoindentation. The high entropy alloy FeCrCoNiZn was fabricated using spark plasma sintering at a temperature of 1100ᵒC from powders mixed for 9 hours. The powders mixture was equimolar, and the resultant microstructure had a single crystalline structure when studied under SEM. Several nano Vickers hardness measurements were taken on a polished surface etched by Nital solution. The hardness ranged from 711 Vickers to a maximum of 1773.2. The alloy FeCrCoNiZn showed a nano hardness of 1070 Vickers and a modulus of elasticity of 460.4 MPa. The process managed to fabricate a very hard material that can find applications where wear resistance is desired.

Keywords: high entropy alloy, FeCrVNiZn, nanohardness, SEM

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Authors: Ziwei Wang, Andrea Lucotti, Luigi Brambilla, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Bertarelli

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Surface-enhanced Raman Spectroscopy (SERS) is a highly sensitive detection that provides abundant information on low concentration analytes from various researching areas. Based on localized surface plasmon resonance, metal nanostructures including gold, silver and copper have been investigated as SERS substrate during recent decades. There has been increasing more attention of exploring good performance, homogenous, repeatable SERS substrates. Here, we show that electrospinning, which is an inexpensive technique to fabricate large-scale, self-standing and repeatable membranes, can be effectively used for producing SERS substrates. Nanoparticles and nanorods are added to the feed electrospinning solution to collect functionalized polymer fibrous mats. We report stable electrospun membranes as SERS substrate using gold nanorods (AuNRs) and poly(vinyl alcohol). Particularly, a post-processing crosslinking step using glutaraldehyde under acetone environment was carried out to the electrospun membrane. It allows for using the membrane in any liquid environment, including water, which is of interest both for sensing of contaminant in wastewater, as well as for biosensing. This crosslinked AuNRs/PVA membrane has demonstrated excellent performance as SERS substrate for low concentration 10-6 M Rhodamine 6G (Rh6G) aqueous solution. This post-processing for fabricating SERS substrate is the first time reported and proved through Raman imaging of excellent stability and outstanding performance. Finally, SERS tests have been applied to several analytes, and the application of AuNRs/PVA membrane is broadened by removing the detected analyte by rinsing. Therefore, this crosslinked AuNRs/PVA membrane is re-usable.

Keywords: SERS spectroscopy, electrospinning, crosslinking, composite materials

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Authors: Jagadeshvaran P. L., Kamlesh Panwar, Indumathi Ramakrishnan, Suryasarathi Bose

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The surge in the usage of wireless electronics and communication devices has engendered a different form of pollution, viz. the electromagnetic (EM) pollution and yet another serious issue, electromagnetic interference (EMI). There is a legitimate need to develop strategies and materials to combat this issue, otherwise leading to dreadful consequences. Functional textiles have emerged as the modern materials to help attenuate EM waves due to the numerous advantages – flexibility being the most important. In addition to this, there is an inherent advantage of multiple interfaces in coated fabrics that can engender significant attenuation. Herein we report a coating having multifunctional properties – capable of blocking both UV and EM radiation (predominantly of the microwave frequencies) with flame-retarding properties. The layer described here comprises iron titanate(FT) synthesized from its sustainable precursor – ilmenite sand and carbon nanotubes (CNT) dispersed in waterborne polyurethane. It is worth noting that FT's use as a multifunctional material is being reported for the first time. It was observed that a single layer of coated fabric shows EMI shielding effectiveness of -40 dB translating to 99.99% attenuation and similarly a UV blocking of 99.99% in the wavelength ranging from 200-400 nm. The microwave shielding properties of the fabric were demonstrated using a Bluetooth module – where the coated fabric was able to block the incoming Bluetooth signals to the module from a mobile phone. Besides, the coated fabrics exhibited phenomenal enhancement in thermal stability - a five percent increase in the limiting oxygen index (LOI) was observed upon the application of the coating. Such exceptional properties complement cotton fabrics' existing utility, thereby extending their use to specialty applications.

Keywords: multifunctional coatings, EMI shielding, UV blocking, iron titanate, CNT, waterborne polyurethane, cotton fabrics

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Authors: Shihab-Uz-Zaman Shah, Sanjeeb Roy, Habiba Akter

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Keeping the high impact of the Ready-Made Garments (RMG) on the country’s economic growth in mind, this research paves a way for the implementation of Industry 4.0 in the garments industry of Bangladesh. At present, Industry 4.0 is a common buzzword representing the adoption of digital technologies in the production process to transform the existing industries into smart factories and create a great change in the global value chain. The RMG industry is the largest industrial sector of Bangladesh which provides 12.26% to its National GDP (Gross Domestic Product). The work starts with identifying possible enablers of Industry 4.0. To evaluate the enablers, a Multiple-Criteria Decision-Making (MCDM) procedure named Fuzzy Analytical Hierarchy Process (FAHP) was used. A questionnaire was developed as a part of a survey for collecting and analyzing expert opinions from relevant academicians and industrialists. The responses were eventually used as the input for the FAHP which helped to assign weight matrices to the enablers. This weight matrix indicated the level of importance of these enablers. The full paper will discuss the way of a successful evaluation of the enablers and implementation of Industry 4.0 by using these enablers.

Keywords: enablers, fuzzy AHP, industry 4.0, RMG sector

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Authors: Stefanie Ficht, Lukas Schübel, Magdalena Kleybolte, Markus Eblenkamp, Jana Steger, Dirk Wilhelm, Petra Mela

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Although 3D printing as transformative technology has become of increasing interest in the medical field and the demand for biodegradable polymers has developed to a considerable extent, there are only a few additively manufactured, biodegradable implants on the market. Additionally, the sterilization of such implants and its side effects on degradation have still not been sufficiently studied. Within this work, thermosensitive poly p-dioxanone (PPDO) samples were printed with fused filament fabrication (FFF) and investigated. Subsequently, H₂O₂ plasma and gamma radiation were used as low-temperature sterilization techniques and compared among each other and the control group (no sterilization). In order to assess the effect of different sterilization on the degradation behavior of PPDO, the samples were immersed in phosphate-buffered solution (PBS) over 28 days, and surface morphology, thermal properties, molecular weight, inherent viscosity, and mechanical properties were examined at regular time intervals. The study demonstrates that PPDO was printed with great success and that thermal properties, molecular weight (Mw), and inherent viscosity (IV) were not significantly affected by the printing process itself. H₂O₂ plasma sterilization did not significantly harm the thermosensitive polymer, while gamma radiation lowered IV and Mw statistically significantly compared to the control group (p < 0.001). During immersion in PBS, a decrease in Mw and mechanical strength occurred for all samples. However, gamma sterilized samples were affected to a much higher extent compared to the two other sample groups both in final values and timeline. This was confirmed by scanning electron microscopy showing no changes of surface morphology of (non-sterilized) control samples, first microcracks appearing on plasma sterilized samples after two weeks while being present on gamma sterilized samples already immediately after radiation to then further deteriorate over immersion duration. To conclude, we demonstrated that FFF and H₂O₂ plasma sterilization are well suited for processing thermosensitive, biodegradable polymers used for the development of innovative short-term medical applications.

Keywords: additive manufacturing, sterilization, biodegradable, thermosensitive, medical application

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Authors: Priya Nangia, Sanchita Bansal

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As fashion cycles become more rapid, some segments of the fashion industry have adopted increasingly unsustainable production processes to keep up with demand and enhance profit margins. The growing threat to environmental and social wellbeing posed by unethical fast fashion practices and the need to integrate the targets of SDGs into this industry necessitates a shift in the fashion industry's unsustainable nature, which can only be accomplished in the long run if consumers support sustainable fashion by purchasing it. Fast fashion is defined as low-cost, trendy apparel that takes inspiration from the catwalk or celebrity culture and rapidly transforms it into garments at high-street stores to meet consumer demand. Given the importance of identity formation to many consumers, the desire to be “fashionable” often outweighs the desire to be ethical or sustainable. This paradox exemplifies the tension between the human drive to consume and the will to do so in moderation. Previous research suggests that there is an attitude-behavior gap when it comes to determining consumer purchasing behavior, but to the best of our knowledge, no study has analysed how to encourage customers to shift from fast to slow fashion. Against this backdrop, the aim of this study is twofold: first, to identify and examine the factors that impact consumers' decisions to engage in sustainable fashion, and second, the authors develop a comprehensive framework for conceptualizing and encouraging researchers and practitioners to foster sustainable consumer behavior. This study used a systematic approach to collect data and analyse literature. The approach included three key steps: review planning, review execution, and findings reporting. Authors identified the keywords “sustainable consumption” and “sustainable fashion” and retrieved studies from the Web of Science (WoS) (126 records) and Scopus database (449 records). To make the study more specific, the authors refined the subject area to management, business, and economics in the second step, retrieving 265 records. In the third step, the authors removed the duplicate records and manually reviewed the articles to examine their relevance to the research issue. The final 96 research articles were used to develop this study's systematic scheme. The findings indicate that societal norms, demographics, positive emotions, self-efficacy, and awareness all have an effect on customers' decisions to purchase sustainable apparel. The authors propose a framework, denoted by the acronym SHIFT, in which consumers are more likely to engage in sustainable behaviors when the message or context leverages the following factors: (s)social influence, (h)habit formation, (i)individual self, (f)feelings, emotions, and cognition, and (t)tangibility. Furthermore, the authors identify five broad challenges that encourage sustainable consumer behavior and use them to develop novel propositions. Finally, the authors discuss how the SHIFT framework can be used in practice to drive sustainable consumer behaviors. This research sought to define the boundaries of existing research while also providing new perspectives on future research, with the goal of being useful for the development and discovery of new fields of study, thereby expanding knowledge.

Keywords: consumer behavior, fast fashion, sustainable consumption, sustainable fashion, systematic literature review

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Authors: Fernando G. Torres, Omar P. Troncoso

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Starch is a highly biocompatible, non-toxic, and biodegradable polymer. It is widely used in biomedical applications, including drug delivery systems and tissue engineering scaffolds. Curcumin, a phenolic compound found in the dried root of Curcuma longa, has been used as a nutritional supplement due to its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects. However, the major problem with ingesting curcumin by itself is its poor bioavailability due to its poor absorption and rapid metabolism. In this study, we report a novel methodology to prepare starch nanoparticles loaded with curcumin. The nanoparticles were synthesized via nanoprecipitation of starch granules extracted from native Andean potatoes (Solanum tuberosum ssp. and Andigena var Huamantanga varieties). The nanoparticles were crosslinked and stabilized by using sodium tripolyphosphate and Tween®80, respectively. The characterization of the nanoparticles loaded with curcumin was assessed by Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy, Dynamic Light Scattering, Zeta potential, and Differential scanning calorimetry. UV-vis spectrophotometry was used to evaluate the loading efficiency and capacity of the samples. The results showed that native starch nanoparticles could be used to prepare promising nanocarriers for the controlled release of curcumin.

Keywords: starch nanoparticle, nanoprecipitation, curcumin, biomedical applications

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Authors: Joseph Marae Djouda, Ashraf Kasmi, François Hild

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Fused filament fabrication is one of the most widespread additive manufacturing techniques because of its low-cost implementation. Its initial development was based on part fabrication with thermoplastic materials. The influence of the manufacturing parameters such as the filament orientation through the nozzle, the deposited layer thickness, or the speed deposition on the mechanical properties of the parts has been widely experimentally investigated. It has been recorded the remarkable variations of the anisotropy in the function of the filament path during the fabrication process. However, there is a lack in the development of constitutive models describing the mechanical properties. In this study, integrated digital image correlation (I-DIC) is used for the identification of mechanical constitutive parameters of two configurations of ABS samples: +/-45° and so-called “oriented deposition.” In this last, the filament was deposited in order to follow the principal strain of the sample. The identification scheme based on the gap reduction between simulation and the experiment directly from images recorded from a single sample (single edge notched tension specimen) is developed. The macroscopic and mesoscopic analysis are conducted from images recorded in both sample surfaces during the tensile test. The elastic and elastoplastic models in isotropic and orthotropic frameworks have been established. It appears that independently of the sample configurations (filament orientation during the fabrication), the elastoplastic isotropic model gives the correct description of the behavior of samples. It is worth noting that in this model, the number of constitutive parameters is limited to the one considered in the elastoplastic orthotropic model. This leads to the fact that the anisotropy of the architectured 3D printed ABS parts can be neglected in the establishment of the macroscopic behavior description.

Keywords: elastic anisotropy, fused filament fabrication, Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, I-DIC identification

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Authors: Mehmet Karahan, Nevin Karahan

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Water and air permeability and thermal resistance of fabrics are the important attributes which strongly influence the thermo-physiological comfort properties of sportswear fabrics in different environmental conditions. In this work, terry and fleece fabrics were developed by varying the fiber content and areal density of fabrics. Further, the thermo-physical properties, including air permeability, water vapor permeability, and thermal resistance, of the developed fabrics were analyzed before and after washing. The multi-response optimization of thermo-physiological comfort properties was done by using principal component analysis (PCA) and Taguchi signal to noise ratio (PCA-S/N ratio) for optimal properties. It was found that the selected parameters resulted in a significant effect on thermo-physiological comfort properties of knitted fabrics. The PCA analysis showed that before wash, 100% cotton fabric with an aerial weight of 220 g.m⁻² gave optimum values of thermo-physiological comfort.

Keywords: thermo-physiological comfort, fleece knitted fabric, air permeability, water vapor transmission, cotton/polyester

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Authors: Papali Elizabeth Maqalika

Abstract:

Introduction: Dress is used daily and can be used to define culture, and through it, individuals form a sense of self and identity. One of the characteristics of culture is that it evolves; Basotho culture is no exception to this. It has evolved through rites of entry, significant ceremonies, daily living, and an approach to others. Most of these affect and have been affected by the local/traditional dress. The study focused on the evolution of culture, and the role played by dress as it is one of the major contributors to non-verbal communication. Methodology: Secondary data were used since most of the original cultural practices are no longer held dear in the value system and so no longer practiced. Interviews were conducted to get some insights from the senior citizens and their responses compared to those of the present adults. Content analysis was used for the interview data. Results: The nature of governance in Lesotho has clearly contributed to the current cultural state of confusion. The Basotho culture has indeed shifted, and the difference in dress code explains it. Acculturation, the alteration in environments, and the type of occasions Basotho attended lately contributed to the shift. Technology brought about a difference in the mode of transport, sports, household activities, and gender roles. Conclusion and Recommendations: It was concluded that since culture is imparted through socialisation, a change in availability of most Basotho women leaves little time left for socialisation with children and resorts to other upbringing patterns, most of which are not cultural; this has brought a cultural shift. In addition, acculturation has contributed massively to the value system of Basotho. The type of dress worn by Basotho presently shifts the culture, and the shifting culture also shifts the dress required to suit the present culture. Because of the type of mindset Basotho has now, it is recommended that cultural days be observed in schools, including the multi-racial ones, and media should assist in this information transmission. The campaigns regarding the value of traditional dress and what it represents are recommended. The local dressmakers manufacturing the Seshoeshoe and any other traditional dress need to be educated about the fabric history, fiber content, and consequent care to be in a position to guide ultimate consumers of the products. Awareness campaigns that the culture shifts and may not necessarily result in negative should be ventured. Cultural exhibitions should also be held ideally at places that hold some cultural heritage. The ministry of sports and culture, together with that of tourism, should run with cultural awareness and enriching vision with a focus on education as opposed to revenue collection.

Keywords: Basotho, culture, dress, acculturation, influence, cultural heritage, socialization, non-verbal communication, Seshoeshoe

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Authors: Margherita Tufarelli, Leonardo Giliberti, Elena Pucci

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The fashion industry's interest in virtuality is linked, on the one hand, to the emotional and immersive possibilities of digital resources and the resulting languages and, on the other, to the greater efficiency that can be achieved throughout the value chain. The interaction between digital innovation and deep-rooted manufacturing traditions today translates into a paradigm shift for the entire fashion industry where, for example, the traditional values of industrial secrecy and know-how give way to experimentation in an open as well as participatory way, and the complete emancipation of virtual reality from actual 'reality'. The contribution aims to investigate the theme of digitisation in the Italian fashion industry, analysing its opportunities and the criticalities that have hindered its diffusion. There are two reasons why the most common approach in the fashion sector is still analogue: (i) the fashion product lives in close contact with the human body, so the sensory perception of materials plays a central role in both the use and the design of the product, but current technology is not able to restore the sense of touch; (ii) volumes are obtained by stitching flat surfaces that once assembled, given the flexibility of the material, can assume almost infinite configurations. Managing the fit and styling of virtual garments involves a wide range of factors, including mechanical simulation, collision detection, and user interface techniques for garment creation. After briefly reviewing some of the salient historical milestones in the resolution of problems related to the digital simulation of deformable materials and the user interface for the procedures for the realisation of the clothing system, the paper will describe the operation and possibilities offered today by the latest generation of specialised software. Parametric avatars and digital sartorial approach; drawing tools optimised for pattern making; materials both from the point of view of simulated physical behaviour and of aesthetic performance, tools for checking wearability, renderings, but also tools and procedures useful to companies both for dialogue with prototyping software and machinery and for managing the archive and the variants to be made. The article demonstrates how developments in technology and digital procedures now make it possible to intervene in different stages of design in the fashion industry. An integrated and additive process in which the constructed 3D models are usable both in the prototyping and communication of physical products and in the possible exclusively digital uses of 3D models in the new generation of virtual spaces. Mastering such tools requires the acquisition of specific digital skills and, at the same time, traditional skills for the design of the clothing system, but the benefits are manifold and applicable to different business dimensions. We are only at the beginning of the global digital transformation: the emergence of new professional figures and design dynamics leaves room for imagination, but in addition to applying digital tools to traditional procedures, traditional fashion know-how needs to be transferred into emerging digital practices to ensure the continuity of the technical-cultural heritage beyond the transformation.

Keywords: digital fashion, digital technology and couture, digital fashion communication, 3D garment simulation

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Authors: Elena Pucci, Margherita Tufarelli, Leonardo Giliberti

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As central for human and social development of the future, sustainability is becoming a recurring theme also in the fashion industry, where the need to explore new possible directions aimed at achieving sustainability goals and their communication is rising. Scholars have been devoted to the overall environmental impact of the textile and fashion industry, which, emerging as one of the world’s most polluting, today concretely assumes the need to take the path of sustainability in both products and production processes. Every day we witness the impact of our consumption, showing that the sustainability concept is as vast as complex: with a sometimes ambiguous definition, sustainability can concern projects, products, companies, sales, packagings, supply chains in relation to the actors proximity as well as traceability, raw materials procurement, and disposal. However, in its primary meaning, sustainability is the ability to maintain specific values and resources for future generations. The contribution aims to address sustainability in the fashion system as a layered problem that requires substantial changes at different levels: in the fashion product (materials, production processes, timing, distribution, and disposal), in the functioning of the system (life cycle, impact, needs, communication) and last but not least in the practice of fashion design which should conceive durable, low obsolescence and possibly demountable products. Moreover, consumers play a central role for the growing awareness, together with an increasingly strong sensitivity towards the environment and sustainable clothing. Since it is also a market demand, undertaking significant efforts to achieve total transparency and sustainability in all production and distribution processes is becoming fundamental for the fashion system. Sustainability is not to be understood as purely environmental but as the pursuit of collective well-being in relation to conscious production, human rights, and social dignity with the aim to achieve intelligent, resource, and environmentally friendly production and consumption patterns. Assuming sustainability as a layered problem makes the role of communication crucial to convey scientific or production specific content so that people can obtain and interpret information to make related decisions. Hence, if it is true that “what designers make becomes the future we inhabit'', design is facing great and challenging responsibility. The fashion industry needs a system of rules able to assess the sustainability of products, which is transparent and easily interpreted by consumers, identifying and enhancing virtuous practices. There are still complex and fragmented value chains that make it extremely difficult for brands and manufacturers to know the history of their products, to identify exactly where the risks lie, and to respond to the growing demand from consumers and civil society for responsible and sustainable production practices in the fashion industry.

Keywords: fashion design, fashion system, sustainability, communication, complexity

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Authors: K. A. Schuck, J. K. Perret, A. Mehn, K. Rommel

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Consumers increasingly consider sustainability aspects in their consumption behavior. Although, few fashion brands are already active in the second-hand luxury market with their own online platforms. Separating between base and high-end luxury brands, two online discrete choice experiments determine the drivers behind consumers’ willingness-to-pay for platform characteristics like the type of ownership, giving brands the opportunity to elicit a financial scope they can operate within.

Keywords: choice experiment, luxury, preferences, second-hand, platform, online

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Authors: Munir Ashraf, Shagufta Riaz

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Personal protective equipment (PPE) and bioactive textiles are highly important for the health care of front line hospital workers, patients, and the general population to be safe from highly infectious diseases. This was even more critical in the wake of COVID-19 outbreak. Most of the medical textiles are inactive against various viruses and bacteria, hence there is a need to wash them frequently to avoid the spread of microorganisms. According to survey conducted by the world health organization, more than 500 million people get infected from hospitals, and more than 13 million died due to these hospitals’ acquired deadly diseases. The market available PPE are though effective against the penetration of pathogens and to kill bacteria but, they are not breathable and active against different viruses. Therefore, there was a great need to develop textiles that are not only effective against bacteria, fungi, and viruses but also are comfortable to the medical personnel and patients. In the present study, waterproof breathable, and biologically active textiles were developed using antiviral and antibacterial nanomaterials. These nanomaterials like TiO₂, ZnO, Cu, and Ag were immobilized at the surface of cotton fabric by using different silane coupling agents and electroless deposition that they retained their functionality even after 30 industrial laundering cycles. Afterwards, the treated fabrics were coated with a waterproof breathable film to prevent the permeation of liquid droplets, any particle or microorganisms greater than 80 nm. The developed cotton fabric was highly active against bacteria and viruses. The good durability of nanomaterials at the cotton surface after several industrial washing cycles makes this fabric an ideal candidate for bioactive textiles used in the medical field.

Keywords: antibacterial, antiviral, cotton, durable

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Authors: Gilda Santos, Rita Marques, Francisca Marques, João Ribeiro, André Fonseca, João M. Miranda, João B. L. M. Campos, Soraia F. Neves

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Every year, an unacceptable number of firefighters are seriously burned during firefighting operations, with some of them eventually losing their life. Although thermal protective clothing research and development has been searching solutions to minimize firefighters heat load and skin burns, currently commercially available solutions focus in solving isolated problems, for example, radiant heat or water-vapor resistance. Therefore, episodes of severe burns and heat strokes are still frequent. Taking this into account, a consortium composed by Portuguese entities has joined synergies to develop an innovative protective clothing system by following a procedure based on the application of numerical models to optimize the design and using a combinationof protective clothing components disposed in different layers. Recently, it has been shown that Phase Change Materials (PCMs) can contribute to the reduction of potential heat hazards in fire extinguish operations, and consequently, their incorporation into firefighting protective clothing has advantages. The greatest challenge is to integrate these materials without compromising garments ergonomics and, at the same time, accomplishing the International Standard of protective clothing for firefighters – laboratory test methods and performance requirements for wildland firefighting clothing. The incorporation of PCMs into the firefighter's protective jacket will result in the absorption of heat from the fire and consequently increase the time that the firefighter can be exposed to it. According to the project studies and developments, to favor a higher use of the PCM storage capacityand to take advantage of its high thermal inertia more efficiently, the PCM layer should be closer to the external heat source. Therefore, in this stage, to integrate PCMs in firefighting clothing, a mock-up of a vest specially designed to protect the torso (back, chest and abdomen) and to be worn over a fire-resistant jacketwas envisaged. Different configurations of PCMs, as well as multilayer approaches, were studied using suitable joining technologies such as bonding, ultrasound, and radiofrequency. Concerning firefighter’s protective clothing, it is important to balance heat protection and flame resistance with comfort parameters, namely, thermaland water-vapor resistances. The impact of the most promising solutions regarding thermal comfort was evaluated to refine the performance of the global solutions. Results obtained with experimental bench scale model and numerical simulation regarding the integration of PCMs in a vest designed as protective clothing for firefighters will be presented.

Keywords: firefighters, multilayer system, phase change material, thermal protective clothing

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Authors: Ira Solomatina

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This paper looks at the role of fashion and clothes in the context of the late nineteenth-century Indian zenana. It suggests that fashion and clothes served as tools for self-assertion and empowerment among the zenana women, allowing them to negotiate between tradition and modernity and establish themselves as modern subjects. In pre-Independence India and in upper-class Indians households, zenana was women's part of the house, where women lived separately from men and in seclusion (purdah). To male colonial scholars and officials, zenana remained impenetrable, inviting speculations about the position of the zenana women. In the colonial imagination, the Indian woman was not only the helpless victim, oppressed by the Indian man but also the agent of deviant sexuality. Consequently, in the colonial British scholarship, zenana was portrayed as a space of idleness, perverse sexuality, ignorance, and illness. Contrary to the dominating ideas about zenana, some Western women writers presented more varied accounts of the zenana life, noting on the good education, dignified manners, and sophisticated fashion choices of the women in the zenana. Contemporary research by postcolonial scholars shows that zenana women in purdah travelled, had access to education and political power. The history of India has examples of women rulers in purdah and more than enough instances of zenana women influencing politics and culture. Zenana, in short, was not an ahistorical, dark realm of idleness but the space of culture and a space impacted by modernity. The paper proves that in the context of zenana, clothes, and fashion provided a visual vocabulary for the women to establish themselves as modern subjects and negotiate between modernity and tradition. To do so, it relies on photographs of zenana women and written accounts about and from the nineteenth-century zenana.

Keywords: woman's fashion, colonial India, modernity, zenana

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Authors: Anthony P. Anies, Jose C. Muñoz

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A new shortcut method for the design of reactive-dividing wall columns (RDWC) is proposed in this work. The RDWC is decomposed into its thermodynamically equivalent configuration naming the Petlyuk column, which consists of a reactive prefractionator and an unreactive main fractionator. The modified FUGK(Fenske-Underwood-Gilliland-Kirkbride) shortcut distillation method, which incorporates the effect of reaction on the Underwood equations and the Gilliland correlation, is used to design the reactive prefractionator. On the other hand, the conventional FUGK shortcut method is used to design the unreactive main fractionator. The shortcut method is applied to the synthesis of dimethyl ether (DME) through the liquid phase dehydration of methanol, and the results were used as the starting design inputs for rigorous simulation in Aspen Plus V8.8. A mole purity of 99 DME in the distillate stream, 99% methanol in the side draw stream, and 99% water in the bottoms stream were obtained in the simulation, thereby making the proposed shortcut method applicable for the preliminary design of RDWC.

Keywords: aspen plus, dimethyl ether, petlyuk column, reactive-dividing wall column, shortcut method, FUGK

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Authors: Pooja Verma, Rajnesh Tyagi, Sunil Mohan

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Al-Si alloys are widely used in various components such as liner-less engine blocks, piston, compressor bodies and pumps for automobile sector and aerospace industries due to their excellent combination of properties like low thermal expansion coefficient, low density, excellent wear resistance, high corrosion resistance, excellent cast ability, and high hardness. The low density and high hardness of primary Si phase results in significant reduction in density and improvement in wear resistance of hypereutectic Al-Si alloys. Keeping in view of the industrial importance of the alloys, hypereutectic Al-Si alloys containing 14, 16, 18 and 20 wt. % of Si were prepared in a resistance furnace using adequate amount of deoxidizer and degasser and their erosion behavior was evaluated by conducting tests at impingement angles of 30°, 60°, and 90° with an erodent discharge rate of 7.5 Hz, pressure 1 bar using erosion test rig. Microstructures of the cast alloys were examined using Optical microscopy (OM) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and the presence of Si particles was confirmed by x-ray diffractometer (XRD). The mechanical properties and hardness were measured using uniaxial tension tests at a strain rate of 10-3/s and Vickers hardness tester. Microstructures of the alloys and X-ray examination revealed the presence of primary and eutectic Si particles in the shape of cuboids or polyhedral and finer needles. Yield strength (YS), ultimate tensile strength (UTS), and uniform elongation of the hypereutectic Al-Si alloys were observed to increase with increasing content of Si. The optimal strength and ductility was observed for Al-20 wt. % Si alloy which is significantly higher than the Al-14 wt. % Si alloy. The increased hardness and the strength of the alloys with increasing amount of Si has been attributed presence of Si in the solid solution which creates strain, and this strain interacts with dislocations resulting in solid-solution strengthening. The interactions between distributed primary Si particles and dislocations also provide Orowan strengthening leading to increased strength. The steady state erosion rate was found to decrease with increasing angle of impact as well as Si content for all the alloys except at 900 where it was observed to increase with the increase in the Si content. The minimum erosion rate is observed in Al-20 wt. % Si alloy at 300 and 600 impingement angles because of its higher hardness in comparison to other alloys. However, at 90° impingement angle the wear rate for Al-20 wt. % Si alloy is found to be the minimum due to deformation, subsequent cracking and chipping off material.

Keywords: Al-Si alloy, erosion wear, cast alloys, dislocation, strengthening

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Authors: Siamack A. Shirazi, Farzin Darihaki

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Solid particles could be found in many multiphase flows, including transport pipelines and pipe fittings. Such particles interact with the pipe material and cause erosion which threats the integrity of the system. Therefore, predicting the erosion rate is an important factor in the design and the monitor of such systems. Mechanistic models can provide reliable predictions for many conditions while demanding only relatively low computational cost. Mechanistic models utilize a representative particle trajectory to predict the impact characteristics of the majority of the particle impacts that cause maximum erosion rate in the domain. The erosion caused by particle impacts is not only due to the direct impacts but also random impingements. In the present study, an alternative model has been introduced to describe the erosion due to random impingement of particles. The present model provides a realistic trend for erosion with changes in the particle size and particle Stokes number. The present model is examined against the experimental data and CFD simulation results and indicates better agreement with the data incomparison to the available models in the literature.

Keywords: erosion, mechanistic modeling, particles, multiphase flow, gas-liquid-solid

Procedia PDF Downloads 141