Abstracts | Materials and Textile Engineering
Commenced in January 2007
Frequency: Monthly
Edition: International
Paper Count: 390

World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology

[Materials and Textile Engineering]

Online ISSN : 1307-6892

390 Enhancing the Dyeability and Performance of Recycled Polyethylene Terephthalate with Hyperbranched Polyester

Authors: Haroon Abdelrahman Mohamed Saeed, Hongjun Yang

Abstract:

This study aims to examine the impact of hyperbranched polyester (AA-Ph) on the dyeability and color fastness of recycled poly (ethylene terephthalate) (RPET) fabric. AA-Ph was synthesized through single-step melt polycondensation of adipic acid (AA) and phloroglucinol (Ph) and then incorporated into RPET before spinning. The addition of AA-Ph significantly improves the dye uptake of recycled PET when dyed with disperse dye blue 56 due to the introduction of polar groups and aromatic rings. The blends RPET-3 and RPET-5 show strong abrasion resistance, dyeability, and washing fastness. Furthermore, these blends exhibit high moisture absorbance owing to the polar groups and aromatic structures, as demonstrated by exhaustion tests, which enhance perspiration absorption for added comfort in apparel. Overall, RPET-3 and RPET-5 blends are well-suited for various textile applications, especially in garment manufacturing.

Keywords: recycled poly (ethylene terephthalate), hyperbranched polyester, dyeability, dye blue

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389 Optimization of Bio-Based Lightweight Mortars Containing Wood Waste

Authors: Valeria Corinaldesi, Nicola Generosi, Daniele Berdini

Abstract:

In this study, wood waste from processing by-products was used by replacing natural sand for producing bio-based lightweight mortars. Manufacturers of wood products and furniture usually generate sawdust and pieces of side-cuts. These are produced by cutting, drilling, and milling operations as well. Three different percentages of substitution of quartz sand were tried: 2.5%, 5%, and 10% by volume. Wood by-products were pre-soaked in calcium hydroxide aqueous solution in order to obtain wood mineralization to avoid undesirable effects on the bio-based building materials. Bio-based mortars were characterized by means of compression and bending tests, free drying shrinkage tests, resistance to water vapour permeability, water capillary absorption, and, finally, thermal conductivity measurements. Results obtained showed that a maximum dosage of 5% wood by-products should be used in order to avoid an excessive loss of bio-based mortar mechanical strength. On the other hand, by adding the proper dosage of water-reducing admixture, adequate mechanical performance can be achieved even with 10% wood waste addition.

Keywords: bio-based mortar, energy efficiency, lightweight mortar, thermal insulation, wood waste

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388 Investigation of Antimicrobial Activity of Dielectric Barrier Discharge Oxygen Plasma Combined with ZnO NPs-Treated Cotton Fabric Coated with Natural Green Tea Leaf Extracts

Authors: Fatma A. Mohamed, Hend M. Ahmed

Abstract:

This research explores the antimicrobial effects of dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) oxygen plasma treatment combined with ZnO NPs on the cotton fabric, focusing on various treatment durations (5, 10, 15, 20, and 30 minutes) and discharge powers (15.5–17.35 watts) at flow rate 0.5 l/min. After treatment with oxygen plasma and ZnO NPs, the fabric was printed with green tea (Camellia sinensis) at five different concentrations. The study evaluated the treatment's effectiveness by analyzing surface wettability, specifically through wet-out time and hydrophilicity, as well as measuring contact angles. To investigate the chemical changes on the fabric's surface, attenuated total reflectance–Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy was employed to identify the functional groups formed as a result of the plasma treatment. This comprehensive approach aims to understand how DBD oxygen plasma treatment and ZnO nanoparticles change cotton fabric properties and enhance its antimicrobial potential, paving the way for innovative applications in textiles. In addition to the chemical analysis, the surface morphology of the O₂ plasma/ZnO NPs-treated cotton fabric was examined using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). FTIR analysis revealed an increase in polar functional groups (-COOH, -OH, and -C≡O) on the fabric's surface, contributing to enhanced hydrophilicity and functionality. The antimicrobial properties were evaluated using qualitative and quantitative methods, including agar plate assays and modified Hoenstein tests against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. The results indicated a significant improvement in antimicrobial effectiveness for the cotton fabric treated with plasma and coated with natural extracts, maintaining this efficacy even after four washing cycles. This research demonstrates that utilizing oxygen DBD plasma/ZnO NPs treatment, combined with the absorption of tea and tulsi leaf extracts, presents a promising strategy for developing natural antimicrobial textiles. This approach is particularly relevant given the increasing medical and healthcare demands for effective antimicrobial materials. Overall, the method not only enhances the absorption of plant extracts but also significantly boosts antimicrobial efficacy, offering valuable insights for future textile applications.

Keywords: cotton, ZnO NPs, green tea leaf, antimicrobial avtivity, DBD oxygen plasma

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387 Utilization of Chrysanthemum Flowers in Textile Dyeing: Chemical and Phenolic Analysis of Dyes and Fabrics

Authors: Muhammad Ahmad

Abstract:

In this research, Chrysanthemum (morifolium) flowers are used as a natural dye to reduce synthetic dyes and take a step toward sustainability in the fashion industry. The aqueous extraction method is utilized for natural dye extraction and then applied to silk and cotton fabric samples. The color of the dye extracted from dried chrysanthemum flowers is originally a shade of rich green, but after being washed with detergent, it turns to a shade of yellow. Traditional salt and vinegar are used as a natural mordant to fix the dye color. This study also includes a phenolic and chemical analysis of the natural dye (Chrysanthemum flowers) and the textiles (cotton and silk). Compared to cotton fabric, silk fabric has far superior chemical qualities to use in natural dyeing. The results of this study show that the Chrysanthemum flower offers a variety of colors when treated with detergent, without detergent, and with mordants. Chrysanthemum flowers have long been used in other fields, such as medicine; therefore, it is time to start using them in the fashion industry as a natural dye to lessen the harm that synthetic dyes cause.

Keywords: natural dyes, Chrysanthemum flower, sustainability, textile fabrics, chemical and phenolic analysis

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386 Design Intelligence in Garment Design Between Technical Creativity and Artistic Creativity

Authors: Kanwar Varinder Pal Singh

Abstract:

Art is one of the five secondary sciences next to the social sciences. As per the single essential concept in garment design, it is the coexistence and co-creation of two aspects of reality: Ultimate reality and apparent or conventional reality. All phenomena possess two natures: That which is revealed by correct perception and that which is induced by deceptive perception. The object of correct perception is the ultimate reality, the object of deceptive perception is conventional reality. The same phenomenon, therefore, may be perceived according to its ultimate nature or its apparent nature. Ultimate reality is also called ‘emptiness’. Emptiness does not mean that all phenomena are nothing but do not exist in themselves. Although phenomena, the universe, thoughts, beings, time, and so on, seem very real in themselves, ultimately, they are not. Each one of us can perceive the changing and unpredictable nature of existence. This transitory nature of phenomena, impermanence, is the first sign of emptiness. Sometimes, the interdependence of phenomena leads to ultimate reality, which is nothing but emptiness, e.g., a rainbow, which is an effect due to the function of ‘sun rays,’ ‘rain,’ and ‘time.’ In light of the above, to achieve decision-making for the global desirability of garment design, the coexistence of artistic and technical creativity must achieve an object of correct perception, i.e., ultimate reality. This paper mentions the decision-making technique as semiotic engineering, both subjective and objective.

Keywords: global desirability, social desirability, comfort desirability, handle desirability, overall desirability

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385 Study of Mechanical Properties of Leno Woven Bags in Lower Weight Capacities

Authors: Golda Honey Madhu, Priyanka Gupta, Anil Kumar Yadav

Abstract:

The study is aimed at analyzing and understanding the design and performance properties of leno woven sacks specifically meant for holding lower weight goods under the category of lower weight capacities. The sacks are a huge part of the agro-based packaging industries which helps in keeping the perishable produce, especially fruits, fresh during transit and storage. Nowadays, Leno bags are primarily made from polypropylene, mainly due its cost-effectiveness, reusability and high strength with low weight property making it an ideal packaging solution for transportation. The design parameters are noted, and major properties like tensile strength, abrasion resistance, bursting strength, impact resistance, stiffness and bagging behaviour has been analyzed for lower weight capacities. An examination of these particular weight categories will provide valuable information on how to scale performance. Currently there are standards available for only 25 kg and 50 kg Leno sacks, and this study will further enhance the already existing testing standards and also provide tested structure-property analysis for lower weight Leno sacks. Hence the results of this research can provide significant insights for researchers, manufacturers and industry-experts with the goal of improving the quality and longevity of Leno woven sacks, thereby developing the packaging technology.

Keywords: leno bags, structure-property analysis, agro-based packaging, lower weight sacks

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384 Assessment of the Thermal and Mechanical Properties of Bio-based Composite Materials for Thermal Insulation

Authors: Nega Tesfie Asfaw, Rafik Absi, Labouda B. A, Ikram El Abbassi

Abstract:

Composite materials have come to the fore a few decades ago because of their superior insulation performances. Recycling natural fiber composites and natural fiber reinforcement of waste materials are other steps for conserving resources and the environment. This paper reviewed the Thermal properties (Thermal conductivity, Effusivity, and Diffusivity) and Mechanical properties (Compressive strength, Flexural strength, and Tensile strength) of bio-composite materials for thermal insulation in the construction industry. For several years, the development of the building materials industry has placed a special emphasis on bio-source materials. According to recent studies, most natural fibers have good thermal insulating qualities and good mechanical properties. To determine the thermal and mechanical performance of bio-composite materials in construction most research used experimental methods. the results of the study show that these natural fibers have allowed us to optimize energy consumption in a building and state that density, porosity, percentage of fiber, the direction of heat flow orientation of the fiber, and the shape of the specimen are the main elements that limit the thermal performance and also showed that density, porosity, Type of Fiber, Fiber length, orientation and weight percentage loading, Fiber-matrix adhesion, Choice of the polymer matrix, Presence of void are the main elements that limit the mechanical performance of the insulation material. Based on the results of this reviewed paper Moss fibers (0.034W/ (m. K)), Wood Fiber (0.043 W/ (m. K)), Wheat straw (0.046 W/ (m. K), and corn husk fibers (0.046 W/ (m. K) are a most promising solution for energy efficiency for construction industry with interesting insulation properties and with good acceptable mechanical properties. Finally, depending on the best fibers used for insulation applications in the construction sector, the thermal performance rate of various fibers reviewed in this article are analyzed. Due to Typha's high porosity, the results indicated that Typha australis fiber had a better thermal performance rate of 89.03% with clay.

Keywords: bio-based materials, thermal conductivity, compressive strength, thermal performance

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383 Interwoven Realms: The Relationship Between Textiles, Fashion, and Architecture

Authors: Toktam mehrabani

Abstract:

Textiles, fashion, and architecture, though seemingly disparate fields, share a deep and evolving relationship. This paper explores the intersection of these disciplines, examining how the tactile, structural, and aesthetic qualities of textiles have influenced both fashion and architecture over time. By investigating historical and contemporary examples, this paper seeks to unravel the ways in which textiles and fashion have not only shaped architectural design but have also acted as a bridge between functionality, art, and human experience in the built environment.Textiles have been integral to human culture since the dawn of civilization. Their presence transcends mere functionality, serving as a medium for artistic expression, cultural identity, and social commentary. Fashion, derived from textiles, has long been associated with personal identity and societal trends, while architecture reflects human needs, environmental context, and cultural values. This paper posits that the relationship between textiles, fashion, and architecture is more interconnected than often perceived, with each influencing and inspiring the other across time. Textiles in Architectural Design: From ancient draperies in temples to tapestries in castles, textiles have adorned structures, softening rigid spaces and adding layers of warmth and luxury. Fabric screens and curtains have also served functional purposes, such as controlling light, acoustics, and temperature. Fashion as Architectural Expression: Renaissance and Baroque fashion used exaggerated forms, corsetry, and layers to mirror the grandiosity of architectural styles of the time. Clothing acted as wearable architecture, with structured garments mirroring the strong lines and curves of buildings..Structural Textiles in Architecture: In the 21st century, textiles are no longer just decorative; they have become integral to architectural innovation. Materials like tensile fabrics and smart textiles are used in creating flexible, lightweight structures. Iconic examples include Frei Otto’s work with tensile membranes, seen in the Munich Olympic Stadium.Technological advancements have drastically transformed the relationship between textiles, fashion, and architecture. Digital tools like 3D printing and laser cutting allow designers in both fields to push the limits of form and structure. Smart textiles that react to environmental stimuli are being explored for use in both wearable technology and adaptable architecture, such as facades that change in response to weather conditions. Textiles, fashion, and architecture are inextricably linked through their shared exploration of form, structure, and expression. This interdisciplinary relationship continues to evolve, driven by technological advancements and a growing emphasis on sustainability. As fashion becomes more architectural in its construction and architecture more fluid in its forms, the lines between these disciplines blur, offering new possibilities for creativity and functionality in both wearable and built environments.

Keywords: textiles in architecture, fashion and architecture, textile architecture, structural textiles, wearable architecture, architectural fashion

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382 Polymer Application in Fashion and Textile Engineering

Authors: Fatemeh Karimi

Abstract:

The fashion and textile industry is undergoing a profound transformation, with polymers playing an increasingly pivotal role in driving innovation and sustainability. This paper explores the application of polymers in fashion and textile engineering, focusing on their impact on material properties, sustainability, and the future of garment production. Polymers, both synthetic and bio-based, offer unique opportunities to enhance the performance, durability, and environmental footprint of textiles. By examining recent advancements in polymer science and their integration into fashion design and production, we provide insights into how these materials are reshaping the industry. This paper also discusses the challenges and opportunities associated with the use of polymers, particularly in the context of sustainable fashion and circular economy practices. Through case studies and industry examples, we highlight the innovative ways in which polymers are being utilized to meet the evolving demands of consumers and the industry's sustainability goals.

Keywords: polymer textiles, sustainable fashion, bio-based polymers, smart textiles, fashion innovation, circular economy, textile engineering

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381 Handloom Weaving Quality and Fashion Development Process for Traditional Costumes in the Contemporary Global Fashion Market in Ethiopia

Authors: Adiyam Amare

Abstract:

This research explores the handloom weaving quality and fashion development process for traditional Ethiopian costumes, particularly focusing on the challenges and opportunities within the contemporary global fashion market. Through a qualitative approach, including interviews and direct observations, the study identifies key factors affecting the handloom industry, such as quality improvement, market integration, and cultural preservation. The findings suggest that enhancing production quality, modernizing techniques, and fostering global market participation can significantly improve the competitiveness of Ethiopian traditional garments in the global fashion industry.

Keywords: fashion, culture, design, textile

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380 Unlocking the Potential of Phosphatic Wastes: Sustainable Valorization Pathways for Synthesizing Functional Metal-Organic Frameworks and Zeolites

Authors: Ali Mohammed Yimer, Ayalew H. Assen, Youssef Belmabkhout

Abstract:

This study delves into sustainable approaches for valorizing phosphatic wastes, specifically phosphate mining wastes and phosphogypsum, which are byproducts of phosphate industries and pose significant environmental challenges due to their accumulation. We propose a unified strategic synthesis method aimed at converting these wastes into hetero-functional porous materials. Our approach involves isolating the primary components of phosphatic wastes, such as CaO, SiO2 and Al2O3 to fabricate functional porous materials falling into two distinct classes. Firstly, alumina and silica components are extracted or isolated to produce zeolites (including CAN, GIS, SOD, FAU, and LTA), characterized by a Si/Al ratio of less than 5. Secondly, residual calcium is utilized to synthesize calcium-based metal–organic frameworks (Ca-MOFs) employing various organic linkers like Ca-BDC, Ca-BTC and Ca-TCPB (SBMOF-2), thereby providing flexibility in material design. Characterization techniques including XRD, SEM-EDX, FTIR, and TGA-MS affirm successful material assembly, while sorption analyses using N2, CO2, and H2O demonstrate the porosity of the materials. Particularly noteworthy is the water/alcohol separation potential exhibited by the Ca-BTC MOF, owing to its optimal pore aperture size (∼3.4 Å). To enhance replicability and scalability, detailed protocols for each synthesis step and specific conditions for each process are provided, ensuring that the methodology can be easily reproduced and scaled up for industrial applications. This synthetic transformation approach represents a valorization route for converting phosphatic wastes into extended porous structures, promising significant environmental and economic benefits.

Keywords: calcium-based metal-organic frameworks, low-silica zeolites, porous materials, sustainable synthesis, valorization

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379 Improved Clothing Durability as a Lifespan Extension Strategy: A Framework for Measuring Clothing Durability

Authors: Kate E Morris, Mark Sumner, Mark Taylor, Amanda Joynes, Yue Guo

Abstract:

Garment durability, which encompasses physical and emotional factors, has been identified as a critical ingredient in producing clothing with increased lifespans, battling overconsumption, and subsequently tackling the catastrophic effects of climate change. Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes have been suggested and will be implemented across Europe and the UK which might require brands to declare a garment’s durability credentials to be able to sell in that market. There is currently no consistent method of measuring the overall durability of a garment. Measuring the physical durability of garments is difficult and current assessment methods lack objectivity and reliability or don’t reflect the complex nature of durability for different garment categories. This study presents a novel and reproducible methodology for testing and ranking the absolute durability of 5 commercially available garment types, Formal Trousers, Casual Trousers, Denim Jeans, Casual Leggings and Underwear. A total of 112 garments from 21 UK brands were assessed. Due to variations in end use, different factors were considered across the different garment categories when evaluating durability. A physical testing protocol was created, tailored to each category, to dictate the necessary test results needed to measure the absolute durability of the garments. Multiple durability factors were used to modulate the ranking as opposed to previous studies which only reported on single factors to evaluate durability. The garments in this study were donated by the signatories of the Waste Resource Action Programme’s (WRAP) Textile 2030 initiative as part of their strategy to reduce the environmental impact of UK fashion. This methodology presents a consistent system for brands and policymakers to follow to measure and rank various garment type’s physical durability. Furthermore, with such a methodology, the durability of garments can be measured and new standards for improving durability can be created to enhance utilisation and improve the sustainability of the clothing on the market.

Keywords: circularity, durability, garment testing, ranking

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378 Precious Gold and Diamond Accessories Versus False Fashion Diamond and Stained Accessories

Authors: Felib Ayman Shawky Salem

Abstract:

This paper includes fast fashion verses sustainable fashion or slow fashion Indian based consumers. The expression ‘Fast fashion’ is generally referred to low-cost clothing collections that considered first hand copy of luxury brands, sometime interchangeably used with ‘mass fashion’. Whereas slow fashion or limited fashion which are consider to be more organic or eco-friendly. "Sustainable fashion is ethical fashion and here the consumer is just not design conscious but also social-environment conscious". Paper will deal with desire of young Indian consumer towards such luxury brands present in India, and their understanding of sustainable fashion, how to maintain the equilibrium between never newer fashion, style, and fashion sustainability. The green fashion market is growing rapidly as eco-friendly consumers are willing to expand their organic lifestyle to include clothing. With an increasing share of fashion consumers globally, Indian consumers are observed to consider the social and environmental ethics while making purchasing decisions. While some research clearly identifies the efforts of responsible consumers towards green fashion, some argue that fashion-orientated consumers who are sensitive towards environment do not actively participate towards supporting green fashion. This study aims to analyze the current perception of green fashion among Indian consumers. A small-scale exploratory study is conducted where consumers’ perception of green fashion is examined followed by an analysis of translation of this perception into purchase decision making. This research paper gives insight into consumer awareness on green fashion and provides scope towards the expansion of ethical fashion consumption

Keywords: diamond, inclusions, temperature gradient, HPHT synthetic fibers, polyamide fibers, fiber volume, compressive strength. gold nano clusters, copper ions, wool keratin, fluorescence

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377 Comparative Assessment of Finite Element Methodologies for Predicting Post-Buckling Collapse in Stiffened Carbon Fiber-Reinforced Plastic (CFRP) Panels

Authors: Naresh Reddy Kolanu

Abstract:

The stability and collapse behavior of thin-walled composite structures, particularly carbon fiber-reinforced plastic (CFRP) panels, are paramount concerns for structural designers. Accurate prediction of collapse loads necessitates precise modeling of damage evolution in the post-buckling regime. This study conducts a comparative assessment of various finite element (FE) methodologies employed in predicting post-buckling collapse in stiffened CFRP panels. A systematic approach is adopted, wherein FE models with various damage capabilities are constructed and analyzed. The study investigates the influence of interacting intra- and interlaminar damage modes on the post-buckling response and failure behavior of the stiffened CFRP structure. Additionally, the capabilities of shell and brick FE-based models are evaluated and compared to determine their effectiveness in capturing the complex collapse behavior. Conclusions are drawn through quantitative comparison with experimental results, focusing on post-buckling response and collapse load. This comprehensive evaluation provides insights into the most effective FE methodologies for accurately predicting the collapse behavior of stiffened CFRP panels, thereby aiding structural designers in enhancing the stability and safety of composite structures.

Keywords: CFRP stiffened panels, delamination, Hashin’s failure, post-buckling, progressive damage model

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376 Eco-Friendly Textiles: The Power of Natural Dyes

Authors: Bushra

Abstract:

This paper explores the historical significance, ecological benefits, and contemporary applications of natural dyes in textile dyeing, aiming to provide a comprehensive overview of their potential to contribute to a sustainable fashion industry while minimizing ecological footprints. This research explores the potential of natural dyes as a sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes in the textile industry, examining their historical context, sources, and environmental benefits. Natural dyes come from plants, animals, and minerals, including roots, leaves, bark, fruits, flowers, insects, and metal salts, used as mordants to fix dyes to fabrics. Natural dyeing involves extraction, mordanting, and dyeing techniques. Optimizing these processes can enhance the performance of natural dyes, making them viable for contemporary textile applications based on experimental research. Natural dyes offer eco-friendly benefits like biodegradability, non-toxicity, and resource renewables, reducing pollution, promoting biodiversity, and reducing reliance on petrochemicals. Natural dyes offer benefits but face challenges in color consistency, scalability, and performance, requiring industrial production to meet modern consumer standards for durability and colorfastness. Contemporary initiatives in the textile industry include fashion brands like Eileen Fisher and Patagonia incorporating natural dyes, artisans like India Flint's Botanical Alchemy promoting traditional dyeing techniques, and research projects like the European Union's Horizon 2020 program. Natural dyes offer a sustainable textile industry solution, reducing environmental impact and promoting harmony with nature. Research and innovation are paving the way for widespread adoption, transforming textile dyeing.

Keywords: historical significance, textile industry, natural dyes, sustainability

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375 Precious Gold and Diamond Accessories Versus False Fashion Diamond and Stained Accessories

Authors: Amira Yousef Mahrous Yousef

Abstract:

This paper includes fast fashion verses sustainable fashion or slow fashion Indian based consumers. The expression ‘Fast fashion’ is generally referred to low-cost clothing collections that considered first hand copy of luxury brands, sometime interchangeably used with ‘mass fashion’. Whereas slow fashion or limited fashion which are consider to be more organic or eco-friendly. "Sustainable fashion is ethical fashion and here the consumer is just not design conscious but also social-environment conscious". Paper will deal with desire of young Indian consumer towards such luxury brands present in India, and their understanding of sustainable fashion, how to maintain the equilibrium between never newer fashion, style, and fashion sustainability. The green fashion market is growing rapidly as eco-friendly consumers are willing to expand their organic lifestyle to include clothing. With an increasing share of fashion consumers globally, Indian consumers are observed to consider the social and environmental ethics while making purchasing decisions. While some research clearly identifies the efforts of responsible consumers towards green fashion, some argue that fashion-orientated consumers who are sensitive towards environment do not actively participate towards supporting green fashion. This study aims to analyze the current perception of green fashion among Indian consumers. A small-scale exploratory study is conducted where consumers’ perception of green fashion is examined followed by an analysis of translation of this perception into purchase decision making. This research paper gives insight into consumer awareness on green fashion and provides scope towards the expansion of ethical fashion consumption .

Keywords: inclusions, temperature gradient, HPHT synthetic fibers, polyamide fibers, fiber volume, compressive strength. gold nano clusters, copper ions, wool keratin, fluorescence

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374 Marketing in the Fashion Industry and Its Critical Success Factors: The Case of Fashion Dealers in Ghana

Authors: Kumalbeo Paul Kamani

Abstract:

Marketing plays a very important role in the success of any firm since it represents the means through which a firm can reach its customers and also promotes its products and services. In fact, marketing aids the firm in identifying customers who the business can competitively serve, and tailoring product offerings, prices, distribution, promotional efforts, and services towards those customers. Unfortunately, in many firms, marketing has been reduced to merely advertisement. For effective marketing, firms must go beyond this often-limited function of advertisement. In the fashion industry in particular, marketing faces challenges due to its peculiar characteristics. Previous research for instance affirms the idiosyncrasy and peculiarities that differentiate the fashion industry from other industrial areas. It has been documented that the fashion industry is characterized seasonal intensity, short product life cycles, the difficulty of competitive differentiation, and long time for companies to reach financial stability. These factors are noted to pose obstacles to the fashion entrepreneur’s endeavours and can be the reasons that explain their low survival rates. In recent times, the fashion industry has been described as a market that is accessible market, has low entry barriers, both in terms of needed capital and skills which have all accounted for the burgeoning nature of startups. Yet as already stated, marketing is particularly challenging in the industry. In particular, areas such as marketing, branding, growth, project planning, financial and relationship management might represent challenges for the fashion entrepreneur but that have not been properly addressed by previous research. It is therefore important to assess marketing strategies of fashion firms and the factors influencing their success. This study generally sought to examine marketing strategies of fashion dealers in Ghana and their critical success factors. The study employed the quantitative survey research approach. A total of 120 fashion dealers were sampled. Questionnaires were used as instrument of data collection. Data collected was analysed using quantitative techniques including descriptive statistics and Relative Importance Index. The study revealed that the marketing strategies used by fashion apparels are text messages using mobile phones, referrals, social media marketing, and direct marketing. Results again show that the factors influencing fashion marketing effectiveness are strategic management, marketing mix (product, price, promotion etc), branding and business development. Policy implications are finally outlined. The study recommends among others that there is a need for the top management executive to craft and adopt marketing strategies that enable that are compatible with the fashion trends and the needs of the customers. This will improve customer satisfaction and hence boost market penetration. The study further recommends that the fashion industry in Ghana should seek to ensure that fashion apparels accommodate the diversity and the cultural setting of different customers to meet their unique needs.

Keywords: marketing, fashion, industry, success factors

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373 Exploring the Concept of Fashion Waste: Hanging by a Thread

Authors: Timothy Adam Boleratzky

Abstract:

The goal of this transformative endeavour lies in the repurposing of textile scraps, heralding a renaissance in the creation of wearable art. Through a judicious fusion of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) methodologies and cutting-edge techniques, this research embarks upon a voyage of exploration, unraveling the intricate tapestry of environmental implications woven into the fabric of textile waste. Delving deep into the annals of empirical evidence and scholarly discourse, the study not only elucidates the urgent imperative for waste reduction strategies but also unveils the transformative potential inherent in embracing circular economy principles within the hallowed halls of fashion. As the research unfurls its sails, guided by the compass of sustainability, it traverses uncharted territories, charting a course toward a more enlightened and responsible fashion ecosystem. The canvas upon which this journey unfolds is richly adorned with insights gleaned from the crucible of experimentation, laying bare the myriad pathways toward waste minimisation and resource optimisation. From the adoption of recycling strategies to the cultivation of eco-friendly production techniques, the research endeavours to sculpt a blueprint for a more sustainable future, one stitch at a time. In this unfolding narrative, the role of wearable art emerges as a potent catalyst for change, transcending the boundaries of conventional fashion to embrace a more holistic ethos of sustainability. Through the alchemy of creativity and craftsmanship, discarded textile scraps are imbued with new life, morphing into exquisite creations that serve as both a testament to human ingenuity and a rallying cry for environmental preservation. Each thread, each stitch, becomes a silent harbinger of change, weaving together a tapestry of hope in a world besieged by ecological uncertainty. As the research journey culminates, its echoes resonate far beyond the confines of academia, reverberating through the corridors of industry and beyond. In its wake, it leaves a legacy of empowerment and enlightenment, inspiring a generation of designers, entrepreneurs, and consumers to embrace a more sustainable vision of fashion. For in the intricate interplay of threads and textiles lies the promise of a brighter, more resilient future, where beauty coexists harmoniously with responsibility and where fashion becomes not merely an expression of style but a celebration of sustainability.

Keywords: fabric-manipulation, sustainability, textiles, waste, wearable-art

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372 The Impact of Artificial Intelligence on Textiles Technology

Authors: Ramy Kamel Fekrey Gadelrab

Abstract:

Textile sensors have gained a lot of interest in recent years as it is instrumental in monitoring physiological and environmental changes, for a better diagnosis that can be useful in various fields like medical textiles, sports textiles, protective textiles, agro textiles, and geo-textiles. Moreover, with the development of flexible textile-based wearable sensors, the functionality of smart clothing is augmented for a more improved user experience when it comes to technical textiles. In this context, conductive textiles using new composites and nanomaterials are being developed while considering its compatibility with the textile manufacturing processes. This review aims to provide a comprehensive and detailed overview of the contemporary advancements in textile-based wearable physical sensors, used in the field of medical, security, surveillance, and protection, from a global perspective. The methodology used is through analysing various examples of integration of wearable textile-based sensors with clothing for daily use, keeping in mind the technological advances in the same. By comparing various case studies, it come across various challenges textile sensors, in terms of stability, the comfort of movement, and reliable sensing components to enable accurate measurements, in spite of progress in the engineering of the wearable. Addressing such concerns is critical for the future success of wearable sensors.

Keywords: nanoparticles, enzymes, immobilization, textilesconductive yarn, e-textiles, smart textiles, thermal analysisflexible textile-based wearable sensors, contemporary advancements, conductive textiles, body conformal design

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371 Exploring the Impact of Body Shape on Bra Fit: Integrating 3D Body Scanning and Traditional Patternmaking Methods

Authors: Yin-Ching Keung, Kit-Lun Yick

Abstract:

The issue of bra fitting has persisted throughout history despite advancements in molded bra cups. To gain a deeper understanding of the interaction between the breast and bra pattern, this study combines the art of traditional bra patternmaking with 3D body scanning technology. By employing a 2D bra pattern drafting method and analyzing the effect of body shape on the desired bra cup shape, the study focuses on the differentiation of the lower cup among bras designed for flat and round body-shaped breasts. The results shed light on the impact of body shape on bra fit and provide valuable insights for further research and improvements in bra design, pattern drafting, and fit. The integration of 3D body scanning technology enhances the accuracy and precision of measurements, allowing for a more comprehensive analysis of the unique contours and dimensions of the breast and body. Ultimately, the study aims to provide individuals with different body shapes a more comfortable and well-fitted bra-wearing experience, contributing to the ongoing efforts to alleviate the longstanding problem of bra fitting.

Keywords: breast shapes, bra fitting, 3D body scanning, bra patternmaking

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370 Optimizing 3D Shape Parameters of Sports Bra Pads in Motion by Finite Element Dynamic Modelling with Inverse Problem Solution

Authors: Jiazhen Chen, Yue Sun, Joanne Yip, Kit-Lun Yick

Abstract:

The design of sports bras poses a considerable challenge due to the difficulty in accurately predicting the wearing result after computer-aided design (CAD). It needs repeated physical try-on or virtual try-on to obtain a comfortable pressure range during motion. Specifically, in the context of running, the exact support area and force exerted on the breasts remain unclear. Consequently, obtaining an effective method to design the sports bra pads shape becomes particularly challenging. This predicament hinders the successful creation and production of sports bras that cater to women's health needs. The purpose of this study is to propose an effective method to obtain the 3D shape of sports bra pads and to understand the relationship between the supporting force and the 3D shape parameters of the pads. Firstly, the static 3D shape of the sports bra pad and human motion data (Running) are obtained by using the 3D scanner and advanced 4D scanning technology. The 3D shape of the sports bra pad is parameterised and simplified by Free-form Deformation (FFD). Then the sub-models of sports bra and human body are constructed by segmenting and meshing them with MSC Apex software. The material coefficient of sports bras is obtained by material testing. The Marc software is then utilised to establish a dynamic contact model between the human breast and the sports bra pad. To realise the reverse design of the sports bra pad, this contact model serves as a forward model for calculating the inverse problem. Based on the forward contact model, the inverse problem of the 3D shape parameters of the sports bra pad with the target bra-wearing pressure range as the boundary condition is solved. Finally, the credibility and accuracy of the simulation are validated by comparing the experimental results with the simulations by the FE model on the pressure distribution. On the one hand, this research allows for a more accurate understanding of the support area and force distribution on the breasts during running. On the other hand, this study can contribute to the customization of sports bra pads for different individuals. It can help to obtain sports bra pads with comfortable dynamic pressure.

Keywords: sports bra design, breast motion, running, inverse problem, finite element dynamic model

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369 The Impact of Artificial Intelligence in the Development of Textile and Fashion Industry

Authors: Basem Kamal Abasakhiroun Farag

Abstract:

Fashion, like many other areas of design, has undergone numerous developments over the centuries. The aim of the article is to recognize and evaluate the importance of advanced technologies in fashion design and to examine how they are transforming the role of contemporary fashion designers by transforming the creative process. It also discusses how contemporary culture is involved in such developments and how it influences fashion design in terms of conceptualization and production. The methodology used is based on examining various examples of the use of technology in fashion design and drawing parallels between what was feasible then and what is feasible today. Comparison of case studies, examples of existing fashion designs and experiences with craft methods; We therefore observe patterns that help us predict the direction of future developments in this area. Discussing the technological elements in fashion design helps us understand the driving force behind the trend. The research presented in the article shows that there is a trend towards significantly increasing interest and progress in the field of fashion technology, leading to the emergence of hybrid artisanal methods. In summary, as fashion technologies advance, their role in clothing production is becoming increasingly important, extending far beyond the humble sewing machine.

Keywords: fashion, identity, such, textiles ambient intelligence, proximity sensors, shape memory materials, sound sensing garments, wearable technology bio textiles, fashion trends, nano textiles, new materials, smart textiles, techno textiles fashion design, functional aesthetics, 3D printing.

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368 Design Aspects of 3D Printing for Fashion and Textiles

Authors: Chi-Chung Marven Chick, Chu-Po Ho, Sau-Chuen Joe Au, Wing-Fai Sidney Wong, Chi-Wai Kan

Abstract:

3D printing is now drawing attention to manufacturing process. In fashion and textile industry, many 3D printing applications had been developed for prototyping or even final product production because of its great flexibility in production. However, when compared with conventional manufacturing processes for fashion and textiles, the design aspects and requirements may not be same for using 3D printing process. Therefore, in this paper, we will compare the design aspects between conventional manufacturing processes and 3D printing processes. Also, the material requirements related to the design in 3D printing for fashion and textiles will be reviewed and discussed. This review paper may demonstrate a possible way to develop 3D printing method(s) for fashion and textiles.

Keywords: 3D printing, design, textile, applications

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367 Development of Soft 3D Printing Materials for Textile Applications

Authors: Chi-Chung Marven Chick, Chu-Po Ho, Sau-Chuen Joe Au, Wing-Fai Sidney Wong, Chi-Wai Kan

Abstract:

Recently, 3D printing becomes popular process for manufacturing, especially has special attention in textile applications. However, there are various types of 3D printing materials, including plastic, resin, rubber, ceramics, gold, platinum, silver, iron, titanium but not all these materials are suitable for textile application. Generally speaking, 3D printing of textile mainly uses thermoplastic polymers such as acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), polylactide (PLA), polycaprolactone (PCL), thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), polyethylene terephthalate glycol-modified (PETG), polystyrene (PS), polypropylene (PP). Due to the characteristics of the polymers, 3D printed textiles usually have low air permeability and poor comfortable. Therefore, in this paper, we will review the possible materials suitable for textile application with desired physical and mechanical properties.

Keywords: 3D printing, 3D printing materials, textile, properties

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366 Influence of Annealing on the Mechanical Properties of Polyester-Cotton Friction Spun Yarn

Authors: Sujit Kumar Sinha, R. Chattopadhyay

Abstract:

In the course of processing phases and use, fibres, yarns, or fabrics are subjected to a variety of stresses and strains, which cause the development of internal stresses. Given an opportunity, these inherent stresses try to bring back the structure to the original state. As an example, a twisted yarn always shows a tendency to untwist whenever its one end is made free. If the yarn is not held under tension, it may form snarls due to the presence of excessive torque. The running performance of such yarn or thread may, therefore, get negatively affected by it, as a snarl may not pass through the knitting or sewing needle smoothly, leading to an end break. A fabric shows a tendency to form wrinkles whenever squeezed. It may also shrink when brought to a relaxed state. In order to improve performance (i.e., dimensional stability or appearance), stabilization of the structure is needed. The stabilization can be attained through the release of internal stresses, which can be brought about by the process of annealing and/or other finishing treatments. When a fabric is subjected to heat, a change in the properties of the fibers, yarns, and fabric is expected. The degree to which the properties are affected would depend upon the condition of heat treatment and on the properties & structure of fibres, yarns, and fabric. In the present study, an attempt has been made to investigate the effect of annealing treatment on the properties of polyester cotton yarns with varying sheath structures.

Keywords: friction spun yarn, annealing, tenacity, structural integrity, decay

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365 Augmenting Cultural Heritage Through 4.0 Technologies: A Research on the Archival Jewelry of the Gianfranco Ferré Research Center

Authors: Greta Rizzi, Ashley Gallitto, Federica Vacca

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Looking at design artifacts as bearers and disseminators of material knowledge and intangible socio-cultural meanings, the significance of archival jewelry was investigated following digital cultural heritage research streams. The application of the reverse engineering concept guided the research path: starting with the study of Gianfranco Ferré's archival jewelry and analyzing its technical heritage and symbolic value, the digitalization, dematerialization, and rematerialization of the artifact were carried out. According to that, the proposed paper results from research conducted within the residency program between the Gianfranco Ferré Research Center (GFRC) and Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), involving both the Design and Mechanical Engineering Departments of Politecnico di Milano. The paper will discuss the analysis of traditional design manufacturing techniques, re-imagined through 3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing technical knowledge while emphasizing the significance of the designer's role as an explorer of socio-cultural meanings and technological mediators in the analog-digital-analog transition.

Keywords: Archival jewelry, cultural heritage, rematerialization, reverse engineering.

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364 Development and Analysis of Waste Human Hair Fiber Reinforced Composite

Authors: Tesfaye Worku

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Human hair, chicken feathers, and hairs of other birds and animals are commonly described as waste products, and the currently available disposal methods, such as burying and burning these waste products, are contributing to environmental pollution. However, those waste products are used to develop fiber-reinforced textile composite material. In this research work, the composite was developed using human hair fiber and analysis of the mechanical and physical properties of the developed composite sample. A composite sample was made with different ratios of human hair and unsaturated polyester resin, and an analysis of the mechanical and physical properties of the developed composite sample was tested according to standards. The fabricated human hair fibers reinforced polymer matrix composite sample has given encouraging results in terms of high strength and rigidity for lightweight house ceiling board material.

Keywords: composite, human hair fiber, matrix, unsaturated polyester

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363 Feasibility of Chicken Feather Waste as a Renewable Resource for Textile Dyeing Processes

Authors: Belayihun Missaw

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Cotton cationization is an emerging area that solves the environmental problems associated with the reactive dyeing of cotton. In this study, keratin hydrolysate cationizing agent from chicken feather was extracted and optimized to eliminate the usage of salt during dyeing. Cationization of cotton using the extracted keratin hydrolysate and dyeing of the cationized cotton without salt was made. The effect of extraction parametric conditions like concentration of caustic soda, temperature and time were studied on the yield of protein from chicken feather and colour strength (K/S) values, and these process conditions were optimized. The optimum extraction conditions were. 25g/l caustic soda, at 500C temperature and 105 minutes with average yield = 91.2% and 4.32 colour strength value. The effect of salt addition, pH and concentration of cationizing agent on yield colour strength was also studied and optimized. It was observed that slightly acidic condition with 4% (% owf) concentration of cationizing agent gives a better dyeability as compared to normal cotton reactive dyeing. The physical properties of cationized-dyed fabric were assessed, and the result reveals that the cationization has a similar effect as normal dyeing of cotton. The cationization of cotton with keratin extract was found to be successful and economically viable.

Keywords: cotton materials, cationization, reactive dye, keratin hydrolysate

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362 The Use of Instagram as a Sales Tool by Small Fashion/Clothing Businesses

Authors: Santos Andressa M. N.

Abstract:

The research brings reflections on the importance of Instagram for the clothing trade, aiming to analyze the use of this social network as a sales tool by small companies in the fashion/clothing sector in Boqueirão-PI. Thus, field research was carried out, with the application of questionnaires, to raise and analyze data related to the topic. Thus, it is believed that Instagram positively influences the dissemination, visibility, reach and profitability of companies in Boqueirão do Piauí. The survey had a low number of companies due to the lack of availability of the owners during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Keywords: Instagram, sales, fashion, marketing

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361 Development and Characterization of a Composite Material for Ceiling Board Construction Applications in Ethiopia

Authors: Minase Yitbarek Mengistu, Abrham Melkamu, Dawit Yisfaw, Bisrat Belihu, Abdulhakim Lalega

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This research was aimed at reducing and recycling waste paper and sawdust from our environment, thereby reducing environmental pollution resulting from the management/disposal of these waste materials. In this research, some mechanical properties of composite ceiling board materials made from waste paper, sawdust, and pineapple leaf fibers were investigated to determine their suitability for use in low-cost construction work. The ceiling board was obtained from the waste of paper, sawdust chips, and pineapple leaf fibers by manual mechanical bonding techniques using dissolved polystyrene films as a binding agent. The results obtained showed that the water absorption values of between 6 % and 8.1 %; as well as density values of 500 kg/mm3 and 611.1 kg/mm3.From our result, the better one is a ratio of pineapple leaf fiber 25%, sawdust 40%, binder 25%, and waste paper 10%. The composite ceiling boards were successfully nailed with firm grips. These values obtained were compared with those of the conventional ceiling boards and it was observed that these composite materials can be used for internal low-cost construction work and Insulation (acoustic and thermal) performance. It is highly recommended that small and medium enterprises be encouraged to venture into waste recycling and the production of these composite ceiling materials to create jobs for skilled and unskilled labor that are locally available.

Keywords: composite material, environment, textile, ceiling board

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