Abstracts | Materials and Textile Engineering
Commenced in January 2007
Frequency: Monthly
Edition: International
Paper Count: 375

World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology

[Materials and Textile Engineering]

Online ISSN : 1307-6892

345 An Analysis of Millennials Using Secondhand Clothing as an Ongoing Fashion Trend

Authors: Patricia Sumod

Abstract:

There is a unique movement of fashion that features a trend around secondhand clothing. This is especially observed in the lifestyles of the millennials, where the concept of reusing apparel and accessories is noticeable and, therefore, slowly diminishing the high consumption of fast fashion and generating environmental awareness. This paper will focus on how this clothing trend influences and engages consumers in buying secondhand clothing and creating fashionable looks simultaneously. To further examine the millennials’ motivation towards consumption and using secondhand fashion, a concept as a trendsetter, this paper will take a closer look at their idea of concern for the environment. Considering second-hand clothing is a sustainable consumption practice, it will investigate the role of social influencers, trendsetters, and millennials in overall fashion consumption in this context. This study aims to understand how secondhand clothing and millennials differ from other consumers regarding the perception of fast-depleting natural resources, price sensitivity, vintage attachments, and psychographics. Secondly, the paper will also present the connection of emotion between millennials and secondhand clothing that may not be necessarily purchased but received. This study will reflect on the already identified influences in increased purchase behavior and an uncharted positive relationship between the consumer and the products. This behavior will further formulate into a habit by consumer segments, creating an expanded market for secondhand clothing. There is no definite indication that fast fashion will cease to exist, but slowing its rapid movement is an attempt to work toward a sustainable future. The conclusion will present possibilities for consumers to engage in C2C online interaction, thereby reinforcing a notable change in consumer behavior and attitude in contradiction to today’s extreme consumerism and willingness to be adaptable to a minimalist way of life. Fashion brands will then begin a new forecast to actively accommodate the new millennial concept of fashion that will advertise more concern than insatiability. The research will be with literature from various authors, insights provided by researchers on this new wave of consumers, and a qualitative approach with face-to-face interviews with a sample group who are in the practice of secondhand clothing consumption.

Keywords: second-hand clothing, millennials, sustainability, consumption practice, fashion environment.

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344 Fashion through Senses: A Study of the Impact of Sensory Cues on the Consumption of Fashion Accessories by Female Shoppers

Authors: Vaishali Joshi

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Purpose: A literature gap exists on the concept of sensory marketing elements, such as tactile elements, auditory elements, visual elements, and olfactory elements, studied together in the context of retailing. An investigation is required to study the impact of these sensory cues together on consumer behaviour. So, this study will undertake the impact of sensory marketing in fashion accessories stores on female shoppers’ purchasing activities. The present research study highlights the role of sensory cues, such as tactile cues, visual cues, auditory cues, and olfactory cues, on the shopper’s emotional states and their purchase intention. Design/methodology/approach: The emotional states and the purchase intention of the female shoppers influenced by the visual, tactile, olfactory, and auditory cues present in the fashion accessories stores were measured. The mall intercept technique was used for the data collection. Data analysis was done through Structural Equation Modelling. Research limitations/implications: The restricted geographical range and limited sample size of the study had a substantial poor influence on the wide usage of the study’s outcome. Also, here, the sample was female respondents only.

Keywords: sensory marketing, visual cues, olfactory cues, tactile cues, auditory cues

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343 Wearable Monitoring and Treatment System for Parkinson’s Disease

Authors: Bulcha Belay Etana, Benny Malengier, Janarthanan Krishnamoorthy, Timothy Kwa, Lieva Vanlangenhove

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Electromyography measures the electrical activity of muscles using surface electrodes or needle electrodes to monitor various disease conditions. Recent developments in the signal acquisition of electromyograms using textile electrodes facilitate wearable devices, enabling patients to monitor and control their health status outside of healthcare facilities. Here, we have developed and tested wearable textile electrodes to acquire electromyography signals from patients suffering from Parkinson’s disease and incorporated a feedback-control system to relieve muscle cramping through thermal stimulus. In brief, the textile electrodes made of stainless steel was knitted into a textile fabric as a sleeve, and their electrical characteristic, such as signal-to-noise ratio, was compared with traditional electrodes. To relieve muscle cramping, a heating element made of stainless-steel conductive yarn sewn onto a cotton fabric, coupled with a vibration system, was developed. The system integrated a microcontroller and a Myoware muscle sensor to activate the heating element as well as the vibration motor when cramping occurred. At the same time, the element gets deactivated when the muscle cramping subsides. An optimum therapeutic temperature of 35.5°C is regulated and maintained continuously by a heating device. The textile electrode exhibited a signal-to-noise ratio of 6.38dB, comparable to that of the traditional electrode’s value of 7.05 dB. For a given 9 V power supply, the rise time for the developed heating element was about 6 minutes to reach an optimum temperature.

Keywords: smart textile system, wearable electronic textile, electromyography, heating textile, vibration therapy, Parkinson’s disease

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342 Enhancing Functional Properties of Sport Wears Interlock Fabrics by Mercerization

Authors: Manar Y. Abd El-Aziz, Alyaa E. Morgham, Amira A. El-Fallal, Heba Tolla E. Abo El Naga

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Sport wears almost preferred with knitted fabrics, specially interlock construction. But, there is a need for higher comfortability and functional properties for fabrics to be more fitted to this application. This study compared cotton and polyester microfibers and blended them to improve the functional activity of interlock in sport wear by mercerized and non-mercerized. also, fabric dyeing and dyeability are affected by mercerization. Many functional properties, such as UV protection as well as antimicrobial activity. The changes in different mechanical as well as physical properties were investigated. The washing fastness properties of the dyed fabrics are also given. The changes in moisture regain, loss in weight, and burst and burst elongation for all mercerized fabrics have been studied.

Keywords: interlock, mercirization, dyeability, function properties, moisture management

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341 Designing Function Knitted and Woven Upholstery Textile With SCOPY Film

Authors: Manar Y. Abd El-Aziz, Alyaa E. Morgham, Amira A. El-Fallal, Heba Tolla E. Abo El Naga

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Different textile materials are usually used in upholstery. However, upholstery parts may become unhealthy when dust accrues and bacteria raise on the surface, which negatively affects the user's health. Also, leather and artificial leather were used in upholstery but, leather has a high cost and artificial leather has a potential chemical risk for users. Researchers have advanced vegie leather made from bacterial cellulose a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY). SCOBY remains a gelatinous, cellulose biofilm discovered floating at the air-liquid interface of the container. But this leather still needs some enhancement for its mechanical properties. This study aimed to prepare SCOBY, produce bamboo rib knitted fabrics with two different stitch densities, and cotton woven fabric then laminate these fabrics with the prepared SCOBY film to enhance the mechanical properties of the SCOBY leather at the same time; add anti-microbial function to the prepared fabrics. Laboratory tests were conducted on the produced samples, including tests for function properties; anti-microbial, thermal conductivity and light transparency. Physical properties; thickness and mass per unit. Mechanical properties; elongation, tensile strength, young modulus, and peel force. The results showed that the type of the fabric affected significantly SCOBY properties. According to the test results, the bamboo knitted fabric with higher stitch density laminated with SCOBY was chosen for its tensile strength and elongation as the upholstery of a bed model with antimicrobial properties and comfortability in the headrest design. Also, the single layer of SCOBY was chosen regarding light transparency and lower thermal conductivity for the creation of a lighting unit built into the bed headboard.

Keywords: anti-microbial, bamboo, rib, SCOPY, upholstery

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340 The Rational Design of Original Anticancer Agents Using Computational Approach

Authors: Majid Farsadrooh, Mehran Feizi-Dehnayebi

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Serum albumin is the most abundant protein that is present in the circulatory system of a wide variety of organisms. Although it is a significant macromolecule, it can contribute to osmotic blood pressure and also, plays a superior role in drug disposition and efficiency. Molecular docking simulation can improve in silico drug design and discovery procedures to propound a lead compound and develop it from the discovery step to the clinic. In this study, the molecular docking simulation was applied to select a lead molecule through an investigation of the interaction of the two anticancer drugs (Alitretinoin and Abemaciclib) with Human Serum Albumin (HSA). Then, a series of new compounds (a-e) were suggested using lead molecule modification. Density functional theory (DFT) including MEP map and HOMO-LUMO analysis were used for the newly proposed compounds to predict the reactivity zones on the molecules, stability, and chemical reactivity. DFT calculation illustrated that these new compounds were stable. The estimated binding free energy (ΔG) values for a-e compounds were obtained as -5.78, -5.81, -5.95, -5,98, and -6.11 kcal/mol, respectively. Finally, the pharmaceutical properties and toxicity of these new compounds were estimated through OSIRIS DataWarrior software. The results indicated no risk of tumorigenic, irritant, or reproductive effects and mutagenicity for compounds d and e. As a result, compounds d and e, could be selected for further study as potential therapeutic candidates. Moreover, employing molecular docking simulation with the prediction of pharmaceutical properties helps to discover new potential drug compounds.

Keywords: drug design, anticancer, computational studies, DFT analysis

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339 Synthesis and Properties of Poly(N-(sulfophenyl)aniline) Nanoflowers and Poly(N-(sulfophenyl)aniline) Nanofibers/Titanium dioxide Nanoparticles by Solid Phase Mechanochemical and Their Application in Hybrid Solar Cell

Authors: Mazaher Yarmohamadi-Vasel, Ali Reza Modarresi-Alama, Sahar Shabzendedara

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Purpose/Objectives: The first purpose was synthesize Poly(N-(sulfophenyl)aniline) nanoflowers (PSANFLs) and Poly(N-(sulfophenyl)aniline) nanofibers/titanium dioxide nanoparticles ((PSANFs/TiO2NPs) by a solid-state mechano-chemical reaction and template-free method and use them in hybrid solar cell. Also, our second aim was to increase the solubility and the processability of conjugated nanomaterials in water through polar functionalized materials. poly[N-(4-sulfophenyl)aniline] is easily soluble in water because of the presence of polar groups of sulfonic acid in the polymer chain. Materials/Methods: Iron (III) chloride hexahydrate (FeCl3∙6H2O) were bought from Merck Millipore Company. Titanium oxide nanoparticles (TiO2, <20 nm, anatase) and Sodium diphenylamine-4-sulfonate (99%) were bought from Sigma-Aldrich Company. Titanium dioxide nanoparticles paste (PST-20T) was prepared from Sharifsolar Co. Conductive glasses coated with indium tin oxide (ITO) were bought from Xinyan Technology Co (China). For the first time we used the solid-state mechano-chemical reaction and template-free method to synthesize Poly(N-(sulfophenyl)aniline) nanoflowers. Moreover, for the first time we used the same technique to synthesize nanocomposite of Poly(N-(sulfophenyl)aniline) nanofibers and titanium dioxide nanoparticles (PSANFs/TiO2NPs) also for the first time this nanocomposite was synthesized. Examining the results of electrochemical calculations energy gap obtained by CV curves and UV–vis spectra demonstrate that PSANFs/TiO2NPs nanocomposite is a p-n type material that can be used in photovoltaic cells. Doctor blade method was used to creat films for three kinds of hybrid solar cells in terms of different patterns like ITO│TiO2NPs│Semiconductor sample│Al. In the following, hybrid photovoltaic cells in bilayer and bulk heterojunction structures were fabricated as ITO│TiO2NPs│PSANFLs│Al and ITO│TiO2NPs│PSANFs /TiO2NPs│Al, respectively. Fourier-transform infrared spectra, field emission scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM), ultraviolet-visible spectra, cyclic voltammetry (CV) and electrical conductivity were the analysis that used to characterize the synthesized samples. Results and Conclusions: FE-SEM images clearly demonstrate that the morphology of the synthesized samples are nanostructured (nanoflowers and nanofibers). Electrochemical calculations of band gap from CV curves demonstrated that the forbidden band gap of the PSANFLs and PSANFs/TiO2NPs nanocomposite are 2.95 and 2.23 eV, respectively. I–V characteristics of hybrid solar cells and their power conversion efficiency (PCE) under 100 mWcm−2 irradiation (AM 1.5 global conditions) were measured that The PCE of the samples were 0.30 and 0.62%, respectively. At the end, all the results of solar cell analysis were discussed. To sum up, PSANFLs and PSANFLs/TiO2NPs were successfully synthesized by an affordable and straightforward mechanochemical reaction in solid-state under the green condition. The solubility and processability of the synthesized compounds have been improved compared to the previous work. We successfully fabricated hybrid photovoltaic cells of synthesized semiconductor nanostructured polymers and TiO2NPs as different architectures. We believe that the synthesized compounds can open inventive pathways for the development of other Poly(N-(sulfophenyl)aniline based hybrid materials (nanocomposites) proper for preparing new generation solar cells.

Keywords: mechanochemical synthesis, PSANFLs, PSANFs/TiO2NPs, solar cell

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338 Analysis of Lesotho Wool Production and Quality Trends 2008-2018

Authors: Papali Maqalika

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Lesotho farmers produce significant quantities of Merino wool of a quality competitive on the global market and make a substantial impact on the economy of Lesotho. However, even with the economic contribution, the production and quality information and trends of this fibre has been recognised nor documented. This is a sombre shortcoming as Lesotho wool is unknown on international markets. The situation is worsened by the fact that Lesotho wool is auction together with South African wool, trading and benchmarking Lesotho wool are difficult not to mention attempts to advance its production and quality. Based on the information above, available data on Lesotho wool for 10 years were collected and analysed for trends to used in benchmarking where applicable. The fibre properties analysed include fibre diameter (fineness), vegetable matter and yield, application and price. These were selected because they are fundamental in determining fibre quality and price. Production of wool in Lesotho has increased slightly over the ten years covered by this study. It also became apparent that production and quality trends of Lesotho wool are greatly influenced by the farming practices, breed of sheep and climatic conditions. Greater adoption of the merino sheep breed, sheds/barns and sheep coats are suggested as ways to reduce mortality rate (due to extremely cold temperatures), to reduce the vegetable matter on the fibre thus improving the quality and increase yield per sheep and production as a whole. Some farming practices such as the lack of barns, supplementary feeding and veterinary care present constraints in wool production. The districts in the Highlands region were found to have the highest production of mostly wool, this being ascribed to better pastures, climatic, social and other conditions conducive to wool production. The production of Lesotho wool and its quality can be improved further, possibly because of the interventions the Ministry of Agriculture introduced through the Small Agricultural and Development Project (SADP) and other appropriate initiatives by the National Wool and Mohair Growers Association (NWMGA). The challenge however, remains the lack of direct involvement of the wool growers (farmers) in decisions making and policy development, this potentially influences and may lead to the reluctance to adopt the strategies. In some cases, the wool growers do not receive the benefits associated with the interventions immediately. Based on these discoveries; it is recommended that the relevant educators and researchers in wool and textile science, as well as the local wool farmers in Lesotho, be represented in policy and other decision making forums relating to these interventions. In this way, educational campaigns and training workshops will be demand driven with a better chance of adoption and success. This is because the direct beneficiaries will have been involved at inception and they will have a sense of ownership as well as intent to see them through successfully.

Keywords: lesotho wool, wool quality, wool production, lesotho economy, global market, apparel wool, database, textile science, exports, animal farming practices, intimate apparel, interventions

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337 Interdisciplinary Method Development - A Way to Realize the Full Potential of Textile Resources

Authors: Nynne Nørup, Julie Helles Eriksen, Rikke M. Moalem, Else Skjold

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Despite a growing focus on the high environmental impact of textiles, textile waste is only recently considered as part of the waste field. Consequently, there is a general lack of knowledge and data within this field. Particularly the lack of a common perception of textiles generates several problems e.g., to recognize the full material potential the fraction contains, which is cruel if the textile must enter the circular economy. This study aims to qualify a method to make the resources in textile waste visible in a way that makes it possible to move them as high up in the waste hierarchy as possible. Textiles are complex and cover many different types of products, fibers and combinations of fibers and production methods. In garments alone, there is a great variety, even when narrowing it to only undergarments. However, textile waste is often reduced to one fraction, assessed solely by quantity, and compared to quantities of other waste fractions. Disregarding the complexity and reducing textiles to a single fraction that covers everything made of textiles increase the risk of neglecting the value of the materials, both with regards to their properties and economical. Instead of trying to fit textile waste into the current primarily linear waste system where volume is a key part of the business models, this study focused on integrating textile waste as a resource in the design and production phase. The study combined interdisciplinary methods for determining replacement rates used in Life Cycle Assessments and Mass Flow Analysis methods with the designer’s toolbox to hereby activate the properties of textile waste in a way that can unleash its potential optimally. It was hypothesized that by activating Denmark's tradition for design and high level of craftsmanship, it is possible to find solutions that can be used today and create circular resource models that reduce the use of virgin fibers. Through waste samples, case studies, and testing of various design approaches, this study explored how to functionalize the method so that the product after the end-use is kept as a material and only then processed at fiber level to obtain the best environmental utilization. The study showed that the designers' ability to decode the properties of the materials and understanding of craftsmanship were decisive for how well the materials could be utilized today. The later in the life cycle the textiles appeared as waste, the more demanding the description of the materials to be sufficient, especially if to achieve the best possible use of the resources and thus a higher replacement rate. In addition, it also required adaptation in relation to the current production because the materials often varied more. The study found good indications that part of the solution is to use geodata i.e., where in the life cycle the materials were discarded. An important conclusion is that a fully developed method can help support better utilization of textile resources. However, it stills requires a better understanding of materials by the designers, as well as structural changes in business and society.

Keywords: circular economy, development of sustainable processes, environmental impacts, environmental management of textiles, environmental sustainability through textile recycling, interdisciplinary method development, resource optimization, recycled textile materials and the evaluation of recycling, sustainability and recycling opportunities in the textile and apparel sector

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336 Biodegradable Polymer Composites of MOF-5 for Efficient and Sustained Delivery of Cephalexin and Metronidazole

Authors: Anoff Anim, Lila A. M. Mahmoud, Maria Katsikogianni, Sanjit Nayak

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Sustained and controlled delivery of antimicrobial drugs have been largely studied recently using metal organic frameworks (MOFs)and different polymers. However, much attention has not been given to combining both MOFs and biodegradable polymers, which would be a good strategy in providing a sustained gradual release of the drugs. Herein, we report a comparative study of the sustained and controlled release of widely used antibacterial drugs, cephalexin and metronidazole, from zinc-based MOF-5 incorporated in biodegradable polycaprolactone (PCL) and poly-lactic glycolic acid (PLGA) membranes. Cephalexin and metronidazole were separately incorporated in MOF-5 post-synthetically, followed by their integration into biodegradable PLGA and PCL membranes. The pristine MOF-5 and the loaded MOFs were thoroughly characterized by FT-IR, SEM, TGA and PXRD. Drug release studies were carried out to assess the release rate of the drugs in PBS and distilled water for up to 48 hours using UV-Vis Spectroscopy. Four bacterial strains from both the Gram-positive and Gram-negative types, Staphylococus aureus, Staphylococuss epidermidis, Escherichia coli, Acinetobacter baumanii, were tested against the pristine MOF, pure drugs, loaded MOFs and the drug-loaded MOF-polymer composites. Metronidazole-loaded MOF-5 composite of PLGA (PLGA-Met@MOF-5) was found to show highest efficiency to inhibit the growth of S. epidermidis compared to the other bacteria strains while maintaining a sustained minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC). This study demonstrates that the combination of biodegradable MOF-polymer composites can provide an efficient platform for sustained and controlled release of antimicrobial drugs and can be a potential strategy to integrate them in biomedical devices.

Keywords: antimicrobial resistance, biodegradable polymers, cephalexin, drug release metronidazole, MOF-5, PCL, PLGA

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335 Predicting Wearable Technology Readiness in a South African Government Department: Exploring the Influence of Wearable Technology Acceptance and Positive Attitude

Authors: Henda J Thomas, Cornelia PJ Harmse, Cecile Schultz

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Wearables are one of the technologies that will flourish within the fourth industrial revolution and digital transformation arenas, allowing employers to integrate collected data into organisational information systems. The study aimed to investigate whether wearable technology readiness can predict employees’ acceptance to wear wearables in the workplace. The factors of technology readiness predisposition that predict acceptance and positive attitudes towards wearable use in the workplace were examined. A quantitative research approach was used. The population consisted of 8 081 South African Department of Employment and Labour employees (DEL). Census sampling was used, and questionnaires to collect data were sent electronically to all 8 081 employees, 351 questionnaires were received back. The measuring instrument called the Technology Readiness and Acceptance Model (TRAM) was used in this study. Four hypotheses were formulated to investigate the relationship between readiness and acceptance of wearables in the workplace. The results found consistent predictions of technology acceptance (TA) by eagerness, optimism, and discomfort in the technology readiness (TR) scales. The TR scales of optimism and eagerness were consistent positive predictors of the TA scales, while discomfort proved to be a negative predictor for two of the three TA scales. Insecurity was found not to be a predictor of TA. It was recommended that the digital transformation policy of the DEL should be revised. Wearables in the workplace should be embraced from the viewpoint of convenience, automation, and seamless integration with the DEL information systems. The empirical contribution of this study can be seen in the fact that positive attitude emerged as a factor that extends the TRAM. In this study, positive attitude is identified as a new dimension to the TRAM not found in the original TA model and subsequent studies of the TRAM. Furthermore, this study found that Perceived Usefulness (PU) and Behavioural Intention to Use and (BIU) could not be separated but formed one factor. The methodological contribution of this study can lead to the development of a Wearable Readiness and Acceptance Model (WRAM). To the best of our knowledge, no author has yet introduced the WRAM into the body of knowledge.

Keywords: technology acceptance model, technology readiness index, technology readiness and acceptance model, wearable devices, wearable technology, fourth industrial revolution

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334 Development of Sustainable Composite Fabric from Orange Peel for Ladies’ Undergarments: A Different Approach Towards Eco-Friendly Textile Design

Authors: Abdul Hafeez, Samiya Shehzadi

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This research paper presents a different approach towards eco-friendly textile design by developing a sustainable composite fabric from orange peel for ladies' undergarments. The research focuses on utilizing orange peel to develop a unique orange leather/composite (fabric) through a process involving heating, extracting, and subsequent sun-drying to obtain the composite. The sustainable composite fabric shows properties that are favorable to the development of environmentally friendly undergarments, which not only offer UV protection but also possess healing properties for the skin. Through comprehensive testing and analysis, it has been determined that the orange peel composite fabric has zero harmful effects on the skin, making it a safe and desirable material for intimate wear. Furthermore, the research suggests that the orange peel composite fabric has the potential to reduce the rate of cancer cell growth. While the exact mechanisms and factors contributing to this effect require further investigation, the initial findings indicate promising aspects of the fabric in terms of potential cancer-preventive properties. Research contribution to the field of sustainable textile design by introducing a usual and eco-friendly approach utilizing orange peel waste. This work opens up avenues for further exploration and development of innovative materials that are both sustainable and beneficial for human health.

Keywords: sustainability, composite textiles, extracting, undergarments, eco-friendly, orange peels

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333 Fashioning the Self: Femininity and Creativity in Vanity Case Design (1900-1970)

Authors: Sandy Ng

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This study explores how women asserted their identities through vanity case design that increased their visibility and affirmed their sense of self. It discusses a history of vanity case design intersected with women as agents of social changes, represented in images that express the modern lifestyle created in the twentieth century. The discussion will emphasize how consumption transformed women’s appearances and mentality and whether vanity cases mediated the ways they perceived and presented themselves. Consumption in modern material culture imparted a sense of respectability to the modern woman while she introduced modern lifestyle and good taste through creativity and specific materials in the designs she carried that redefined her social status. Visual evidence, such as advertisements and photographs, as well as designs including vanity cases and jewelry worn by women, will be examined in the context of Pierre Bourdieu’s concept of cultural capital, enhancing understanding of women’s cultural and social roles in the modern era. Creativity articulated in fashion accessories specifically designed for women was instrumental in asserting their identities and ornamentation on design served vital cultural and social functions in the modern epoch.

Keywords: creativity, design, femininity, modern women, vanity case

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332 Influence of Bondage Discipline Sadism Masochism (BDSM) On Fashion Industry on Fashion Industry

Authors: Utkarsh Goley

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BDSM, or Bondage Discipline Sadism Masochism, is a controversial and often misunderstood practice that has had a presence in the fashion industry for decades. BDSM-inspired fashion can be seen in various forms, from leather harnesses and corsets to studded collars and latex clothing. BDSM fashion is often associated with edginess, rebellion, and sexuality. It has been embraced by subcultures such as punk, Goth, and fetish, as well as mainstream fashion designers looking to push boundaries and make a statement. However, the use of BDSM imagery in fashion has also been criticized for promoting objectification, exploitation, and the normalization of abusive behavior. Some argue that the fashion industry's depiction of BDSM often reinforces harmful stereotypes and misconceptions about the practice. Despite the controversy, BDSM-inspired fashion continues to have a place in the industry, with designers and consumers alike finding value in its aesthetic appeal and provocative nature. As with any aspect of fashion, the role of BDSM in the industry will continue to evolve and adapt to changing cultural norms and societal attitudes.

Keywords: BDSM, leather, fashion, lycra

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331 The Amalgamation of Fashion and Art: A Camaraderie of the Creative Abilities

Authors: Brar Prabhdip

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Art and fashion are coupled by a common bridge which is ‘Creativity’. For centuries art has influenced fashion and has been inspirational for modern-day national as well as international designers. Italian artists during the Renaissance period were highly influenced by art. 20th and 21st-century artists have often found themselves the muses of major fashion houses. Many times artists and designers like Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst, and Dior, Prada, respectively, have collaborated and successfully created prints, textiles, and silhouettes that have dazzled the art and fashion world. This paper nudges deeper and discourses the statement pieces of remarkable designers that have been influenced by art and adorned by international celebrities. Indian designer Manish Arora has been able to design a remarkable position for himself in the international fashion world. His clothes are avant-garde and favoured choice of celebrities like Lady Gaga and Katy Perry. The Manish Arora collaboration with Berlin-based artist Amrie Hoffstater has carved its space for a new segment. The latest collaboration, despite being in the pandemic, is between Sabyasachi (India) and Bergdorfs Goodman (New York). It boasts of the traditional Colonial Indian sensibility juxtaposed with the eclectic Western American mix for the new-age wearer. A qualitative and exploratory research design is steered towards both art and fashion as they reflect social, economic, and political changes. Social issues are highlighted through these platforms. Secondary data has been used for this paper to explain how designers have bridged the way for how one could wear fashion as a piece of art in and of itself. Conclusively we reach the perfect camaraderie between art and fashion.

Keywords: art, artist, collaboration, designer, fashion, relationship commas

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330 Manufacture and Characterization of Poly (Tri Methylene Terephthalate) Nanofibers by Electrospinning

Authors: Omid Saligheh

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Poly (tri methylene terephthalate) (PTT) nanofibers were prepared by electrospinning, being directly deposited in the form of a random fibers web. The effect of changing processing parameters such as solution concentration and electrospinning voltage on the morphology of the electrospun PTT nanofibers was investigated with scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The electrospun fibers diameter increased with rising concentration and decreased by increasing the electrospinning voltage, thermal and mechanical properties of electrospun fibers were characterized by DSC and tensile testing, respectively.

Keywords: poly tri methylene terephthalate, electrospinning, morphology, thermal behavior, mechanical properties

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329 Evolution of Leather in Fashion Industry

Authors: Utkarsh Goley

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Leather has been a valued material for clothing and accessories for centuries, and its use has evolved along with fashion trends and technological advancements. From ancient times when leather was used for practical purposes, to the modern fashion industry, where it is used for both functional and decorative purposes, leather has undergone significant changes in its production and usage. In recent years, there has been a growing awareness of ethical and sustainable fashion, leading to a shift towards alternative materials and production methods. The leather industry has responded to this by exploring new techniques and materials, such as vegetable-tanned leather and leather substitutes made from plant-based materials. The evolution of leather in the fashion industry is also closely tied to cultural and social trends. The use of leather has been associated with rebellion and counterculture in the past, and today it is often used to evoke a sense of luxury and sophistication. Despite the challenges and controversies surrounding its production, leather continues to be a popular material in the fashion industry, with designers and consumers alike valuing its durability, versatility, and aesthetic appeal. As fashion continues to evolve, so will the role and use of leather in the industry. This research paper provides a detailed overview of the evolution of leather in the fashion industry throughout the different decades and centuries.

Keywords: evolution, fashion, leather, sustainable

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328 Photocapacitor Integrating Solar Energy Conversion and Energy Storage

Authors: Jihuai Wu, Zeyu Song, Zhang Lan, Liuxue Sun

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Solar energy is clean, open, and infinite, but solar radiation on the earth is fluctuating, intermittent, and unstable. So, the sustainable utilization of solar energy requires a combination of high-efficient energy conversion and low-loss energy storage technologies. Hence, a photo capacitor integrated with photo-electrical conversion and electric-chemical storage functions in single device is a cost-effective, volume-effective and functional-effective optimal choice. However, owing to the multiple components, multi-dimensional structure and multiple functions in one device, especially the mismatch of the functional modules, the overall conversion and storage efficiency of the photocapacitors is less than 13%, which seriously limits the development of the integrated system of solar conversion and energy storage. To this end, two typical photocapacitors were studied. A three-terminal photocapacitor was integrated by using perovskite solar cell as solar conversion module and symmetrical supercapacitor as energy storage module. A function portfolio management concept was proposed the relationship among various efficiencies during photovoltaic conversion and energy storage process were clarified. By harmonizing the energy matching between conversion and storage modules and seeking the maximum power points coincide and the maximum efficiency points synchronize, the overall efficiency of the photocapacitor surpassed 18 %, and Joule efficiency was closed to 90%. A voltage adjustable hybrid supercapacitor (VAHSC) was designed as energy storage module, and two Si wafers in series as solar conversion module, a three-terminal photocapacitor was fabricated. The VAHSC effectively harmonizes the energy harvest and storage modules, resulting in the current, voltage, power, and energy match between both modules. The optimal photocapacitor achieved an overall efficiency of 15.49% and Joule efficiency of 86.01%, along with excellent charge/discharge cycle stability. In addition, the Joule efficiency (ηJoule) was defined as the energy ratio of discharge/charge of the devices for the first time.

Keywords: joule efficiency, perovskite solar cell, photocapacitor, silicon solar cell, supercapacitor

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327 Bio-Based Processes for Circular Economy in the Textile Industry

Authors: Nazanin Forouz

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The textile industry faces increasing criticism due to its resource-intensive nature and the negative environmental and societal impacts associated with the manufacturing, use, and disposal of clothes. To address these concerns, there is a growing desire to transition towards a circular economy for textiles, implementing recycling concepts and technologies to protect resources, the environment, and people. While existing recycling processes have focused on chemical and mechanical reuse of textile fibers, bio-based processes have received limited attention beyond end-of-life composting. However, bio-based technologies hold great promise for circularizing the textile life cycle and reducing environmental impacts.

Keywords: textile industry, circular economy, bio-based processes, recycling, environmental impacts

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326 Transitioning towards a Circular Economy in the Textile Industry: Approaches to Address Environmental Challenges

Authors: Mozhdeh Khalili Kordabadi

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Textiles play a vital role in human life, particularly in the form of clothing. However, the alarming rate at which textiles end up in landfills presents a significant environmental risk. With approximately one garbage truck per second being filled with discarded textiles, urgent measures are required to mitigate this trend. Governments and responsible organizations are calling upon various stakeholders to shift from a linear economy to a circular economy model in the textile industry. This article highlights several key approaches that can be undertaken to address this pressing issue. These approaches include the creation of renewable raw material sources, rethinking production processes, maximizing the use and reuse of textile products, implementing reproduction and recycling strategies, exploring redistribution to new markets, and finding innovative means to extend the lifespan of textiles. By adopting these strategies, the textile industry can contribute to a more sustainable and environmentally friendly future. Introduction: Textiles, particularly clothing, are essential to human existence. However, the rapid accumulation of textiles in landfills poses a significant threat to the environment. This article explores the urgent need for the textile industry to transition from a linear economy model to a circular economy model. The linear model, characterized by the creation, use, and disposal of textiles, is unsustainable in the long term. By adopting a circular economy approach, the industry can minimize waste, reduce environmental impact, and promote sustainable practices. This article outlines key approaches that can be undertaken to drive this transition. Approaches to Address Environmental Challenges: Creation of Renewable Raw Materials Sources: Exploring and promoting the use of renewable and sustainable raw materials, such as organic cotton, hemp, and recycled fibers, can significantly reduce the environmental footprint of textile production. Rethinking Production Processes: Implementing cleaner production techniques, optimizing resource utilization, and minimizing waste generation are crucial steps in reducing the environmental impact of textile manufacturing. Maximizing Use and Reuse of Textile Products: Encouraging consumers to prolong the lifespan of textile products through proper care, maintenance, and repair services can reduce the frequency of disposal and promote a culture of sustainability. Reproduction and Recycling Strategies: Investing in innovative technologies and infrastructure to enable efficient reproduction and recycling of textiles can close the loop and minimize waste generation. Redistribution of Textiles to New Markets: Exploring opportunities to redistribute textiles to new and parallel markets, such as resale platforms, can extend their lifecycle and prevent premature disposal. Improvising Means to Extend Textile Lifespan: Encouraging design practices that prioritize durability, versatility, and timeless aesthetics can contribute to prolonging the lifespan of textiles. Conclusion: The textile industry must urgently transition from a linear economy to a circular economy model to mitigate the adverse environmental impact caused by textile waste. By implementing the outlined approaches, such as sourcing renewable raw materials, rethinking production processes, promoting reuse and recycling, exploring new markets, and extending the lifespan of textiles, stakeholders can work together to create a more sustainable and environmentally friendly textile industry. These measures require collective action and collaboration between governments, organizations, manufacturers, and consumers to drive positive change and safeguard the planet for future generations.

Keywords: textiles, circular economy, environmental challenges, renewable raw materials, production processes, reuse, recycling, redistribution, textile lifespan extension.

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325 Transitioning Towards a Circular Economy in the Textile Industry: Approaches to Address Environmental Challenges

Authors: Atefeh Salehipoor

Abstract:

Textiles play a vital role in human life, particularly in the form of clothing. However, the alarming rate at which textiles end up in landfills presents a significant environmental risk. With approximately one garbage truck per second being filled with discarded textiles, urgent measures are required to mitigate this trend. Governments and responsible organizations are calling upon various stakeholders to shift from a linear economy to a circular economy model in the textile industry. This article highlights several key approaches that can be undertaken to address this pressing issue. These approaches include the creation of renewable raw material sources, rethinking production processes, maximizing the use and reuse of textile products, implementing reproduction and recycling strategies, exploring redistribution to new markets, and finding innovative means to extend the lifespan of textiles. However, the rapid accumulation of textiles in landfills poses a significant threat to the environment. This article explores the urgent need for the textile industry to transition from a linear economy model to a circular economy model. The linear model, characterized by the creation, use, and disposal of textiles, is unsustainable in the long term. By adopting a circular economy approach, the industry can minimize waste, reduce environmental impact, and promote sustainable practices. This article outlines key approaches that can be undertaken to drive this transition. Approaches to Address Environmental Challenges: 1. Creation of Renewable Raw Materials Sources: Exploring and promoting the use of renewable and sustainable raw materials, such as organic cotton, hemp, and recycled fibers, can significantly reduce the environmental footprint of textile production. 2. Rethinking Production Processes: Implementing cleaner production techniques, optimizing resource utilization, and minimizing waste generation are crucial steps in reducing the environmental impact of textile manufacturing. 3. Maximizing Use and Reuse of Textile Products: Encouraging consumers to prolong the lifespan of textile products through proper care, maintenance, and repair services can reduce the frequency of disposal and promote a culture of sustainability. 4. Reproduction and Recycling Strategies: Investing in innovative technologies and infrastructure to enable efficient reproduction and recycling of textiles can close the loop and minimize waste generation. 5. Redistribution of Textiles to New Markets: Exploring opportunities to redistribute textiles to new and parallel markets, such as resale platforms, can extend their lifecycle and prevent premature disposal. 6. Improvising Means to Extend Textile Lifespan: Encouraging design practices that prioritize durability, versatility, and timeless aesthetics can contribute to prolonging the lifespan of textiles. Conclusion The textile industry must urgently transition from a linear economy to a circular economy model to mitigate the adverse environmental impact caused by textile waste. By implementing the outlined approaches, such as sourcing renewable raw materials, rethinking production processes, promoting reuse and recycling, exploring new markets, and extending the lifespan of textiles, stakeholders can work together to create a more sustainable and environmentally friendly textile industry. These measures require collective action and collaboration between governments, organizations, manufacturers, and consumers to drive positive change and safeguard the planet for future generations.

Keywords: textiles, circular economy, environmental challenges, renewable raw materials, production processes, reuse, recycling, redistribution, textile lifespan extension

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324 Integrating Wearable-Textiles Sensors and IoT for Continuous Electromyography Monitoring

Authors: Bulcha Belay Etana, Benny Malengier, Debelo Oljira, Janarthanan Krishnamoorthy, Lieva Vanlangenhove

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Electromyography (EMG) is a technique used to measure the electrical activity of muscles. EMG can be used to assess muscle function in a variety of settings, including clinical, research, and sports medicine. The aim of this study was to develop a wearable textile sensor for EMG monitoring. The sensor was designed to be soft, stretchable, and washable, making it suitable for long-term use. The sensor was fabricated using a conductive thread material that was embroidered onto a fabric substrate. The sensor was then connected to a microcontroller unit (MCU) and a Wi-Fi-enabled module. The MCU was programmed to acquire the EMG signal and transmit it wirelessly to the Wi-Fi-enabled module. The Wi-Fi-enabled module then sent the signal to a server, where it could be accessed by a computer or smartphone. The sensor was able to successfully acquire and transmit EMG signals from a variety of muscles. The signal quality was comparable to that of commercial EMG sensors. The development of this sensor has the potential to improve the way EMG is used in a variety of settings. The sensor is soft, stretchable, and washable, making it suitable for long-term use. This makes it ideal for use in clinical settings, where patients may need to wear the sensor for extended periods of time. The sensor is also small and lightweight, making it ideal for use in sports medicine and research settings. The data for this study was collected from a group of healthy volunteers. The volunteers were asked to perform a series of muscle contractions while the EMG signal was recorded. The data was then analyzed to assess the performance of the sensor. The EMG signals were analyzed using a variety of methods, including time-domain analysis and frequency-domain analysis. The time-domain analysis was used to extract features such as the root mean square (RMS) and average rectified value (ARV). The frequency-domain analysis was used to extract features such as the power spectrum. The question addressed by this study was whether a wearable textile sensor could be developed that is soft, stretchable, and washable and that can successfully acquire and transmit EMG signals. The results of this study demonstrate that a wearable textile sensor can be developed that meets the requirements of being soft, stretchable, washable, and capable of acquiring and transmitting EMG signals. This sensor has the potential to improve the way EMG is used in a variety of settings.

Keywords: EMG, electrode position, smart wearable, textile sensor, IoT, IoT-integrated textile sensor

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323 The Environmental Impacts of Textiles Reuse and Recycling: A Review on Life-Cycle-Assessment Publications

Authors: Samuele Abagnato, Lucia Rigamonti

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Life-Cycle-Assessment (LCA) is an effective tool to quantify the environmental impacts of reuse models and recycling technologies for textiles. In this work, publications in the last ten years about LCA on textile waste are classified according to location, goal and scope, functional unit, waste composition, impact assessment method, impact categories, and sensitivity analysis. Twenty papers have been selected: 50% are focused only on recycling, 30% only on reuse, the 15% on both, while only one paper considers only the final disposal of the waste. It is found that reuse is generally the best way to decrease the environmental impacts of textiles waste management because of the avoided impacts of manufacturing a new item. In the comparison between a product made with recycled yarns and a product from virgin materials, in general, the first option is less impact, especially for the categories of climate change, water depletion, and land occupation, while for other categories, such as eutrophication or ecotoxicity, under certain conditions the impacts of the recycled fibres can be higher. Cultivation seems to have quite high impacts when natural fibres are involved, especially in the land use and water depletion categories, while manufacturing requires a remarkable amount of electricity, with its associated impact on climate change. In the analysis of the reuse processes, relevant importance is covered by the laundry phase, with water consumption and impacts related to the use of detergents. About the sensitivity analysis, it can be stated that one of the main variables that influence the LCA results and that needs to be further investigated in the modeling of the LCA system about this topic is the substitution rate between recycled and virgin fibres, that is the amount of recycled material that can be used in place of virgin one. Related to this, also the yield of the recycling processes has a strong influence on the results of the impact. The substitution rate is also important in the modeling of the reuse processes because it represents the number of avoided new items bought in place of the reused ones. Another aspect that appears to have a large influence on the impacts is consumer behaviour during the use phase (for example, the number of uses between two laundry cycles). In conclusion, to have a deeper knowledge of the impacts of a life-cycle approach of textile waste, further data and research are needed in the modeling of the substitution rate and of the use phase habits of the consumers.

Keywords: environmental impacts, life-cycle-assessment, textiles recycling, textiles reuse, textiles waste management

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322 Characteristics of PET-Based Conductive Fiber

Authors: Chung-Yang Chuang, Chi-Lung Chen, Hui-Min Wang, Chang-Jung Chang

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Conductive fiber is the key material for e-textiles and wearable devices. However, the durability of the conductive fiber after the wash process is an important issue for conductive fiber applications in e-textiles. Therefore, it is necessary for conductive fiber with good performance on electrically conductive behavior during the product life cycle. In this research, the PET-based conductive fiber was prepared by silver conductive ink continuous coating. The conductive fiber showed low fiber resistance (10-¹~10Ω/cm), and the conductive behavior still had good performance (fiber resistance:10-¹~10Ω/cm, percentage of fiber resistance change:<60%) after the water wash durability test (AATCC-135, 30 times). This research provides a better solution to resolve the issues of resistance increase after the water wash process due to the damage to the conductive fiber structure.

Keywords: PET, conductive fiber, e-textiles, wearable devices

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321 Eco-Friendly Softener Extracted from Ricinus communis (Castor) Seeds for Organic Cotton Fabric

Authors: Fisaha Asmelash

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The processing of textiles to achieve a desired handle is a crucial aspect of finishing technology. Softeners can enhance the properties of textiles, such as softness, smoothness, elasticity, hydrophilicity, antistatic properties, and soil release properties, depending on the chemical nature used. However, human skin is sensitive to rough textiles, making softeners increasingly important. Although synthetic softeners are available, they are often expensive and can cause allergic reactions on human skin. This paper aims to extract a natural softener from Ricinus communis and produce an eco-friendly and user-friendly alternative due to its 100% herbal and organic nature. Crushed Ricinus communis seeds were soaked in a mechanical oil extractor for one hour with a 100g cotton fabric sample. The defatted cake or residue obtained after the extraction of oil from the seeds, also known as Ricinus communis meal, was obtained by filtering the raffinate and then dried at 1030c for four hours before being stored under laboratory conditions for the softening process. The softener was applied directly to 100% cotton fabric using the padding process, and the fabric was tested for stiffness, crease recovery, and drape ability. The effect of different concentrations of finishing agents on fabric stiffness, crease recovery, and drape ability was also analyzed. The results showed that the change in fabric softness depends on the concentration of the finish used. As the concentration of the finish was increased, there was a decrease in bending length and drape coefficient. Fabrics with a high concentration of softener showed a maximum decrease in drape coefficient and stiffness, comparable to commercial softeners such as silicon. The highest decrease in drape coefficient was found to be comparable with commercial softeners, silicon. Maximum increases in crease recovery were seen in fabrics treated with Ricinus communis softener at a concentration of 30gpl. From the results, the extracted softener proved to be effective in the treatment of 100% cotton fabric

Keywords: ricinus communis, crease recovery, drapability, softeners, stiffness

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320 Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) Fabrics Decoloring for PET Textile Recycle

Authors: Chung-Yang Chuang, Hui-Min Wang, Min-Yan Dong, Chang-Jung Chang

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PET fiber is the most widely used fiber worldwide. This man-made fiber is prepared from petroleum chemicals, which may cause environmental pollution and resource exhausting issues, such as the use of non-renewable sources, greenhouse gas emission and discharge of wastewater. Therefore, the textile made by recycle-PET is the trend in the future. Recycle-PET fiber, compared with petroleum-made PET, shows lower carbon emissions and resource exhaustion. However, “fabric decoloring” is the key barrier to textile recycling. The dyes existing in the fabrics may cause PET chain degradation and appearance drawbacks during the textile recycling process. In this research, the water-based decoloring agent was used to remove the dispersed dye in the PET fabrics in order to obtain the colorless PET fabrics after the decoloring process. The decoloring rate of PET fabrics after the decoloring process was up to 99.0%. This research provides a better solution to resolve the issues of appearance and physical properties degradation of fabrics-recycle PET materials due to the residual dye. It may be possible to convert waste PET textiles into new high-quality PET fiber and build up the loop of PET textile recycling.

Keywords: PET, decoloring, disperse dye, textile recycle

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319 Polypropylene Fibres Dyeable with Acid Dyes

Authors: H. M. Wang, C. J. Chang

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As the threat of global climate change is more seriously, "net zero emissions by 2050" has become a common global goal. In order to reduce the consumption of petrochemical raw materials and reduce carbon emissions, low-carbon fiber materials have become key materials in the future global textile supply chain. This project uses polyolefin raw materials to modify through synthesis and amination to develop low-temperature dyeable polypropylene fibers, endow them with low-temperature dyeability and high color fastness that can be combined with acid dyes, and improve the problem of low coloring strength. The color fastness to washing can reach the requirement of commerce with 3.5 level or more. Therefore, we realize the entry of polypropylene fiber into the clothing textile supply chain, replace existing fiber raw materials, solve the problem of domestic chemical fiber, textile, and clothing industry's plight of no low-carbon alternative new material sources, and provide the textile industry with a solution to achieve the goal of net zero emissions in 2050.

Keywords: acid dyes, dyeing, low-temperature, polypropylene fiber

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318 In-Situ Reactive Growth of Silver Nanoparticles on Cotton Textile for Antiviral and Electromagnetic Shielding Applications

Authors: Hamed Mohammadi Mofarah, Mutalifu Abulikemu, Ghassan E. Jabbour

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Personal protective equipment (PPE) is finding increasing interest in incorporating silver nanoparticles (NPs) for various applications including microbial disinfection and shielding against electromagnetic waves. In this venue, we present an in situ reactive coating approach where silver nanoparticles are self-assembled on the surface of cotton yarn. The impacts of a variety of experimental parameters on the average size of the synthesized silver NPs were investigated. These include vacuum conditions, the concentration of the silver salt solution and reducer, temperature, and curing time. Silver NPs with an average size ranging from 10 to 50 nanometers were self-assembled as a result of careful regulation of such reaction conditions. The disinfection efficacy against the COVID surrogate virus of the functional textile reached a rate of 99.99%. On the other hand, the silver NPs decorated textile demonstrated an electromagnetic shielding ranging from 31 dB to 45 dB were achieved for the frequency range 8.2-12.4 GHz.

Keywords: antiviral, COVID, electromagnetic shielding, in-situ reactive coating, SARS CoV 2, silver nanoparticles, smart textile

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317 The Cultural Shift in Pre-owned Fashion as Sustainable Consumerism in Vietnam

Authors: Lam Hong Lan

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The textile industry is said to be the second-largest polluter, responsible for 92 million tonnes of waste annually. There is an urgent need to practice the circular economy to increase the use and reuse around the world. By its nature, the pre-owned fashion business is considered part of the circular economy as it helps to eliminate waste and circulate products. Second-hand clothes and accessories used to be associated with a ‘cheap image’ that carried ‘old energy’ in Vietnam. This perception has been shifted, especially amongst the younger generation. Vietnamese consumer is spending more on products and services that increase self-esteem. The same consumer is moving away from a collectivist social identity towards a ‘me, not we’ outlook as they look for a way to express their individual identity. And pre-owned fashion is one of their solutions as it values money, can create a unique personal style for the wearer and links with sustainability. The design of this study is based on the second-hand shopping motivation theory. A semi-structured online survey with 100 consumers from one pre-owned clothing community and one pre-owned e-commerce site in Vietnam. The findings show that in contrast with Vietnamese older consumers (55+yo) who, in the previous study, generally associated pre-owned fashion with ‘low-cost’, ‘cheap image’ that carried ‘old energy’, young customers (20-30 yo) were actively promoted their pre-owned fashion items to the public via outlet’s social platforms and their social media. This cultural shift comes from the impact of global and local discourse around sustainable fashion and the growth of digital platforms in the pre-owned fashion business in the last five years, which has generally supported wider interest in pre-owned fashion in Vietnam. It can be summarised in three areas: (1) global and local celebrity influencers. A number of celebrities have been photographed wearing vintage items in music videos, photoshoots or at red carpet events. (2) E-commerce and intermediaries. International e-commerce sites – e.g., Vinted, TheRealReal – and/or local apps – e.g., Re.Loved – can influence attitudes and behaviors towards pre-owned consumption. (3) Eco-awareness. The increased online coverage of climate change and environmental pollution has encouraged customers to adopt a more eco-friendly approach to their wardrobes. While sustainable biomaterials and designs are still navigating their way into sustainability, sustainable consumerism via pre-owned fashion seems to be an immediate solution to lengthen the clothes lifecycle. This study has found that young consumers are primarily seeking value for money and/or a unique personal style from pre-owned/vintage fashion while using these purchases to promote their own “eco-awareness” via their social media networks. This is a good indication for fashion designers to keep in mind in their design process and for fashion enterprises in their business model’s choice to not overproduce fashion items.

Keywords: cultural shift, pre-owned fashion, sustainable consumption, sustainable fashion.

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316 Layer-By-Layer Deposition of Poly (Amidoamine) and Poly (Acrylic Acid) on Grafted-Polylactide Nonwoven with Different Surface Charge

Authors: Sima Shakoorjavan, Mahdieh Eskafi, Dawid Stawski, Somaye Akbari

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In this study, poly (amidoamine) dendritic material (PAMAM) and poly (acrylic acid) (PAA) as polycation and polyanion were deposited on surface charged polylactide (PLA) nonwoven to study the relationship of dye absorption capacity of layered-PLA with the number of deposited layers. To produce negatively charged-PLA, acrylic acid (AA) was grafted on the PLA surface (PLA-g-AA) through a chemical redox reaction with the strong oxidizing agent. Spectroscopy analysis, water contact measurement, and FTIR-ATR analysis confirm the successful grafting of AA on the PLA surface through the chemical redox reaction method. In detail, an increase in dye absorption percentage by 19% and immediate absorption of water droplets ensured hydrophilicity of PLA-g-AA surface; and the presence of new carbonyl bond at 1530 cm-¹ and a wide peak of hydroxyl between 3680-3130 cm-¹ confirm AA grafting. In addition, PLA as linear polyester can undergo aminolysis, which is the cleavage of ester bonds and replacement with amid bonds when exposed to an aminolysis agent. Therefore, to produce positively charged PLA, PAMAM as amine-terminated dendritic material was introduced to PLA molecular chains at different conditions; (1) at 60 C for 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2 hours of aminolysis and (2) at room temperature (RT) for 1, 2, 3, and 4 hours of aminolysis. Weight changes and spectrophotometer measurements showed a maximum in weight gain graph and K/S value curve indicating the highest PAMAM attachment at 60 C for 1 hour and RT for 2 hours which is considered as an optimum condition. Also, the emerging new peak around 1650 cm-1 corresponding to N-H bending vibration and double wide peak at around 3670-3170 cm-1 corresponding to N-H stretching vibration confirm PAMAM attachment in selected optimum condition. In the following, regarding the initial surface charge of grafted-PLA, lbl deposition was performed and started with PAA or PAMAM. FTIR-ATR results confirm chemical changes in samples due to deposition of the first layer (PAA or PAMAM). Generally, spectroscopy analysis indicated that an increase in layer number costed dye absorption capacity. It can be due to the partial deposition of a new layer on the previously deposited layer; therefore, the available PAMAM at the first layer is more than the third layer. In detail, in the case of layer-PLA starting lbl with negatively charged, having PAMAM as the first top layer (PLA-g-AA/PAMAM) showed the highest dye absorption of both cationic and anionic model dye.

Keywords: surface modification, layer-by-layer technique, dendritic materials, PAMAM, dye absorption capacity, PLA nonwoven

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