Search results for: beauty and ugliness
Commenced in January 2007
Frequency: Monthly
Edition: International
Paper Count: 188

Search results for: beauty and ugliness

188 The Transformation of Beauty and Ugliness in Art Aesthetics

Authors: Wenjin Li, Jing Sun

Abstract:

Since the mid-eighteenth century, when philosophers began to talk about aesthetic consciousness, beauty gradually became an independent system, and ugliness was often considered the opposite of beauty and neglected. Yet, ugliness itself has its self-regulation and aesthetic value. This paper explores the relationship between beauty and ugliness and the three forms of transformation between beauty and ugliness in artworks, looking at the history of ugliness in the East and the West, and giving an insight into the role of the artist in the transformation between beauty and ugliness.

Keywords: artistic aesthetics, arts theory, aesthetic of the ugly, beauty and ugliness, arts of east and west

Procedia PDF Downloads 53
187 The Representation of the Medieval Idea of Ugliness in Messiaen's Saint François d’Assise

Authors: Nana Katsia

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This paper explores the ways both medieval and medievalist conceptions of ugliness might be linked to the physical and spiritual transformation of the protagonists and how it is realised through specific musical rhythm, such as the dochmiac rhythm in the opera. As Eco and Henderson note, only one kind of ugliness could be represented in conformity with nature in the Middle Ages without destroying all aesthetic pleasure and, in turn, artistic beauty: namely, a form of ugliness which arouses disgust. Moreover, Eco explores the fact that the enemies of Christ who condemn, martyr, and crucify him are represented as wicked inside. In turn, the representation of inner wickedness and hostility toward God brings with it outward ugliness, coarseness, barbarity, and rage. Ultimately these result in the deformation of the figure. In all these regards, the non-beautiful is represented here as a necessary phase, which is not the case with classical (the ancient Greek) concepts of Beauty. As we can see, the understanding of disfigurement and ugliness in the Middle Ages was both varied and complex. In the Middle Ages, the disfigurement caused by leprosy (and other skin and bodily conditions) was interpreted, in a somewhat contradictory manner, as both a curse and a gift from God. Some saints’ lives even have the saint appealing to be inflicted with the disease as part of their mission toward true humility. We shall explore that this ‘different concept’ of ugliness (non-classical beauty) might be represented in Messiaen’s opera. According to Messiaen, the Leper and Saint François are the principal characters of the third scene, as both of them will be transformed, and a double miracle will take place in the process. Messiaen mirrors the idea of the true humility of Saint’s life and positions Le Baiser au Lépreux as the culmination of the first act. The Leper’s character represents his physical and spiritual disfigurement, which are healed after the miracle. So, the scene can be viewed as an encounter between beauty and ugliness, and that much of it is spent in a study of ugliness. Dochmiac rhythm is one of the most important compositional elements in the opera. It plays a crucial role in the process of creating a dramatic musical narrative and structure in the composition. As such, we shall explore how Messiaen represents the medieval idea of ugliness in the opera through particular musical elements linked to the main protagonists’ spiritual or physical ugliness; why Messiaen makes reference to dochmiac rhythm, and how they create the musical and dramatic context in the opera for the medieval aesthetic category of ugliness.

Keywords: ugliness in music, medieval time, saint françois d’assise, messiaen

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186 The Station and Value of Beauty in Islam Based on the Holy Quran

Authors: Hamidreza Qaderi

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Beauty is a part of our life and we as Muslims cannot ignore it. Furthermore, Islam did not ignore. God in Quran has used words that mean beauty many times. Zain «زین» and its synonyms are some of that words that are used 46 times in a different meaning of beauty. Some of them are mentioned to worldly beauty and not acceptable beauty and other of them are mentioned to the Moral beauty. In this article, the meaning of Zain 'beauty' in Surah Al Aaraf (The Heights) is explained and described. In fact, there are specific signs about beauty in the 31 and 32 verses of this Surah in which the station of beauty can determine. For clarification of this issue, the analytic philosophy method is used to express the relation between this word and aesthetics and beauty in this article. The results of this research show that the beauty is an important issue in Islam as much as God order to Muslims to be beautiful when they want to pray.

Keywords: beauty, Quran, al zinah, Zain

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185 Exploring Ugliness as an Aesthetic Theme in Contemporary Chinese Literature through Analyzing Five Dragons, Protagonist in Rice by Xianfeng Writer Su Tong

Authors: Ku Yu Yiu

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Writers have included the ugly in their works for centuries, but ugliness has often served merely as a contrast to bring out the beautiful, not having emerged as an independent aesthetic category until recent history. In the 1980s, China was going through a series of changes and transformations; the wounds and scars from the Cultural Revolution, a freer literary atmosphere then, and the introduction of Western thoughts into China gave rise to a trend of penning the ugly and the repulsive among writers. Such trend of utilizing 'Ugliness' as a theme of writing in Chinese literature is especially observed among Xianfeng writers (China’s pioneer writers or avant-garde writers). As a prominent Xianfeng writer, Su Tong (1963-) also incorporates ugliness into his novels: shoddy environment, degenerate and ruthless society, distorted and decadent humanity are part and parcel of his deliberate efforts of exploring and depicting the ugly aspects of the world. His full-length novel Rice, staging the appalling protagonist Five Dragons, is a prime example. In fact, all characters in Rice exhibit Ugliness but Five Dragons’s turning into a figure of ugly spite is the most thorough and complete, making Rice a masterpiece of Su Tong’s art in projecting the Ugliness embedded in society and human nature. Approaching Rice from the angle of the aesthetics of the Ugly and selecting Five Dragons as the subject of close reading and analysis, this paper offers insights into both Su Tong’s distinct style of foregrounding and unfolding Ugliness in his novel and the workings of such text when he deploys the Ugly as a center component of his writing. In addition to citing from the discussion of Rice by literary critics and the author himself, this paper also presents textual evidence and analyzes the imageries/motifs and calculated vocabulary/narration employed by Su Tong to illustrate how Five Dragons' extreme behaviors and psychological states are integral to the plot and ultimately to the manifestation of ugliness as the novel’s theme. This study reveals that although the psyche and doings of Five Dragons and other 'ugly' characters are, as the author once stated, imagined products of the writer Su Tong himself, Rice sheds light onto the ugly aspects of life in China in 1920s-30s. Three aspects of Ugliness are identified and discussed in the paper. Lastly, this paper also suggests some effects of Su Tong’s exploration of Ugliness in Rice, proposing that the portrayal of Ugliness per se is not the ends of Su Tong’s mastery of the aesthetics of the Ugly but rather a means to making his writing transcend from provoking spontaneous moral judgment in readers on the doings of Five Dragons to prompting readers to ponder on philosophical questions such as how humanity can still be possible when an individual confronts the dark sides of a self, a society, and his/her fate.

Keywords: aesthetics, Rice, Su Tong, Ugly

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184 Views of the Self in Beast and Beauty K-Dramas: The South Korean Paradigm of Beauty

Authors: Patricia P. M. C. Lourenço

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South Korean Entertainment Industry has reversed the gender binary through Beast and Beauty Korean dramas that perpetuate Korean unrealistic beauty standards by emphasizing freckles, acne, pimples, excessive weight, fizzy hair, glasses, and braces as ugly and unattractive, therefore in need of correction to fit into society’s pre-established beauty mould. This pursuit of physical beauty as a happiness goal only detracts singularity in favour of mundaneness, sustaining the illusion that unsightly women need to undergo a physical transformation to improve their lives while handsome, wealthy men need not do anything more than altruistically accept them for who they really are inside. Five Beast and Beauty dramas were analysed for this paper. The assessment revealed that there is standardization and typecasting of Beast and Beauty roles in K-Dramas, a reflection of South Korean’s patriarchal society where women and men are continuously expected to fulfil their pre-established gender binary roles and stereotypes.

Keywords: K-dramas, beauty, low self-esteem, plastic surgery, South Korean stereotypes

Procedia PDF Downloads 182
183 The Construction of the Meaning of Beauty by the Representation of Wardah Halal Beauty

Authors: Indhie Febrianti Herlina, Riri Akadafi, Alna Hanana

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This research describes the constructivism of the Halal beauty of Wardah commercials that present hijab women as the advertising models and shows the sign of Halal in each promotion. There are differences of the concept of beauty between wardah and other beauty ads. When today’s ads describe that beautiful women are who have bright skin, sharp nose and long hair, wardah describes that beautiful women are the hijab women and wear Halal beauty product. This research is interesting because it is so rare when the beauty is presented by hijab women. By using the constructivism paradigm and combining it with reception theory, the author wants to reveal whether women are constructed by these commercials. Reception theory is about how public accept the content of a media. The informants are the women who wear hijab, wear Wardah products and join ‘Wardah Goes to Campus’, a roadshow event conducted by Wardah in Universities all around Indonesia. By interviewing the informants, a statement can be inferred that informants A, B, C, and D assumed that beauty is a physical beauty. However, after they have learned about the true meaning of beauty and watched Wardah commercials, those informants understand that beauty is reflected by the women who wear hijab and wear Halal Cosmetics. Meanwhile, the informant E assumes that beauty is relative, inner, and good-looking. The conclusion of this research is that the informants are constructed by the halal beauty described by Wardah commercials. By presenting the models wearing hijab and wear natural-looking cosmetics, Wardah successfully influences the informants to be more confident to look good by wearing hijab.

Keywords: ad, commercial, construction, halal beauty, wardah

Procedia PDF Downloads 233
182 Language on Skin Whitening Products in Pakistan Promotes Unfair Beauty Standards: A Critical Discourse Analysis

Authors: Azeem Alphonce

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In Pakistan, there is a variety of skin tones and colors across all provinces. However, a fair complexion is one of the standards of beauty among females in Pakistan, which creates insecurities in dark-complexioned females. This research is a critical discourse analysis of the language used on beauty products for females in Pakistan. The purpose was to analyze the language used on female beauty products using Van Dijk's three-stage socio-cognitive model to understand what message is received from the few words written and repeated across the packaging of various facial products, why such language is used and what are its wider socio-cognitive effects? The criterion for the selection of beauty products was skin whitening terminologies and the language used on these products. The results showed that over 57 per cent of products utilized skin-whitening terms. The adjectives written on the package indicate that fairer skin is the ultimate beauty goal of females. The analysis explored how the language reinforces unfair beauty standards and perpetuates colorism. It was concluded that female beauty products utilize discriminatory discourse by marginalizing individuals of darker skin tones. Fairer skin is promoted, whereas darker skin is referred to as a problem, flaw or imperfection. Socially shared mental models seem to have caused beauty companies to exploit and promote perceptions of colorism in society. Therefore, such discourse should be prevented, and beauty companies should utilize their discourse to promote acceptance of various skin tones.

Keywords: language, skin whitening products, beauty standards, social mental models

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181 Beauty Representation and Body Politic of Women Writers in Magdalene

Authors: Putri Alya Ramadhani

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This research analysed how women writers represent their beauty in a platform called Magdalene. With the vision “Supporting diversity, empowering minds,” Magdalene is a new media that seeks to represent women's voices rarely heard in mainstream media. This research elaborates further on how women writers, through their writing, use their body politic to subvert patriarchal values. This research used a qualitative method with an explorative design by using text analysis based on the representation theory of Stuart Hall and in-dept-interview with Women Writers in Magdalene. The result illustrated that women writers represent their beauty in Magdalene to subvert body and beauty-representation in mainstream discourse. Furthermore, the authors have identified an identity negotiation as tension from inevitable oppression and power towards and from women’s bodies. In addition, Women Writers showed the power of their bodies through the redefinition of beauty practices and self. Hence, they subvert body dichotomy to redefine body values in society. In conclusion, this study shows various representations of beauty and body that are underrepresented in the mainstream media through the innovative new medium, Magdalena.

Keywords: women writers, beauty-representation, body politic, new media, identity negotiation

Procedia PDF Downloads 148
180 Holistic Approach for Natural Results in Facial Aesthetics

Authors: R. Denkova

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Nowadays, aesthetic and psychological researches in some countries show that the aesthetic ideal for women is built by the same pattern of big volumes – lips, cheek, facial disproportions. They all look like made of a matrix. And they lose their unique and emotional aspects of beauty. How to escape this matrix and find the balance? The secret to being a unique injector is good assessment, creating a treatment plan and flawless injection strategy. The newest concepts in this new injection era which meet the requirements of a modern society and deliver balanced and natural looking results are based on the concept of injecting not the consequence, but the reason. Three case studies are presented with full face assessment, treatment plan and before/after pictures. Using different approaches and techniques of the MD codes concept, lights and shadows concept in order to preserve the emotional beauty and identity of the women. In conclusion, the cases demonstrate that beauty exists even beyond the matrix and it is the injector’s mission and responsibility is to preserve and highlight the natural beauty and unique identity of every different patient.

Keywords: beyond the matrix, emotional beauty, face assessment, injector, treatment plan

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179 The Influence of Self-Concept on the Tendency of Body Dysmorphic Disorder of Beauty Salon and Fitness Centre Customers in Malang

Authors: Yunita Kurniawati

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The aim of the research is to understand the influence of self concept on the tendency for body dysmorphic disorder among beauty salon and fitness centre customers in Malang. Subjects in this study amounted to 200 of beauty salon and fitness centre customers in Malang. Subjects completed a self-concept scale and the tendency of body dysmorphic scale. This study was analyzed using simple linear regression. The result shows that there are 14% influence of self concept on the tendency of body dysmorphic disorder among customers of beauty salon and fitness centre in Malang.

Keywords: self concept, tendency of body dysmorphic disorder, beauty salon and fitness centre customers, Malang

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178 The Concept of Female Beauty in Contemporary (2000-2020) Fine Arts and Design

Authors: Maria Ukolova

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Social and cultural processes over the past decades have largely affected the understanding of conventional female beauty all over the world. Fine arts and design tendencies could not remain unchanged and show a dynamic interplay with female rights, gender equality, and other social processes. As of now, the area lacks comprehensive academic research on the tendencies of understanding female beauty in contemporary art. This article makes an attempt to outline and analyse the main tendencies of contemporary works of art that turn to the image of a woman, including photography, digital art, and various forms of design. The research bases itself on paintings, performing arts, photography, digital art, and various forms of design, mainly on the principle of the most broadly resonated in society, as an empirical basis, and on existing researches in the sphere. The results of the research show a general trend that the concept of female beauty in art is either challenged as such or its understanding has shifted to individuality, diversity, and the state of mental health. However, some categories of art, such as digital art in the gaming industry, remain resistant to change and retain the appearance-based understanding of beauty. Specific tendencies are, firstly, aestheticization of all types of appearances; secondly, a ubiquitous interest in mental health issues and understanding the state of mental health as a part of beauty; thirdly, a certain infantilization of the image of the woman is observed as compared to previous decades. The significance of the findings of the research is to contribute to a scientific understanding of the concept of beauty in contemporary art and to give ground for prospective further related research in sociology, phycology, etc. The findings might be perceived not only by academics but also by artists and practitioners in the spheres of art and society.

Keywords: fine arts, history of art, contemporary art, concept of beauty

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177 Influences of Emerging Beauty Industry for Men on Construction of Masculinities of Male Students of Dhaka City

Authors: Abu Saleh Mohammad Sowad

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Back in history, muscular and strong male body has always been used to promulgate masculinity; for physically representing supreme manliness there were not many other options. This idealized male figure was proliferated mainly for spreading the notion of male superiority in relation to power and to give a strong base to the social construction of masculinity. This study targets to disclose the perception about the attributes masculinities among the male students of Dhaka city regarding male beautification. It is an attempt to unveil young men’s perspectives regarding their masculinities and beauty. Till the very recent past, beauty was always seen as sole feminine trait in Bangladeshi society. From history we can see men have always been assumed as the ambassador of roughness but in recent time the emergence of fashion-conscious men can be seen, who are slowly occupying a handsome position in the society. Concerning study attempts to bring out the way in which such changing trend of male beauty is perceived among the male students of Dhaka city. What could be the ideologies of these young men who are being involved with it? What is influencing them to be part of such arena which, to a great extent, is still considered as female domain? Is their perception about construction of masculinity is shifting from the so called idealized masculinity? The study tries to find out the answers.

Keywords: masculinity, male beauty, Bangladesh, identity, body

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176 The Study of the Concept of Aesthetics in Architecture Derived from the Ideas of Jörg Kurt Greuther

Authors: Mana Pirhadi, Maryam Pirhadi, Fatemeh Tavakoli

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As there are several styles and attitudes among the practitioners of the present time, it is difficult to achieve a definition of beauty for contemporary architecture and aesthetic concepts has different frameworks in various disciplines. Beauty can be regarded as one of the most important elements of architecture; therefore, having a clear understanding of beauty can help architects and audiences to create or analyze an architectural work. This paper investigates the assumption that we can have a clearer understanding of the concept of aesthetics in architecture by analyzing the ideas of the contemporary analyst of architectural aesthetics, Jörg Greuther. Thus, the question is how the concept of aesthetics in architecture will be analyzed in their thoughts. In general, the paper aims to examine aesthetic concepts in the contemporary era that are expressed relying on Greuther's views. The paper adopts a descriptive-analytic approach in terms of methodology. Finally, through the study of the viewpoints of various scholars and specifically considering Greuther's definition that focuses on the effect of psychological-social factors on human perception and formation of the schema, it could be said that aesthetics means to have a good knowledge of truth and understand it.

Keywords: aesthetics, beauty perception, contemporary architecture, Jörg Greuther

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175 Jean-Francois Lyotrard's Concept of Different and the Conceptual Problems of Beauty in Philosophy of Contemporary Art

Authors: Sunandapriya Bhikkhu, Shimo Sraman

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The main objective of this research is to analytically study the concept of Lyotard’s different that rejects the monopoly criteria and single rule with the incommensurable, which can explain about conceptual problems of beauty in the philosophy of contemporary art. In Lyotard’s idea that basic value judgment of human should be a value like a phrase that is a small unit and an individual such as the aesthetic value that to explain the art world. From the concept of the anti-war artist that rejects the concept of the traditional aesthetic which cannot be able to explain the changing in contemporary society but emphasizes the meaning of individual beauty that is at the beginning of contemporary art today. In the analysis of the problem, the researcher supports the concept of Lyotard’s different that emphasizes the artistic expression which opens the space of perception and beyond the limitations of language process. Art is like phrase or small units that can convey a sense of humanity through the aesthetic value of the individual, not social criteria or universal. The concept of Lyotard’s different awakens and challenge us to the rejection of the single rule that is not open the social space to minorities by not accepting the monopoly criteria.

Keywords: difference, Jean-Francois Lyotard, postmodern, beauty, contemporary art

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174 Sports and Beauty: Translating the History of Aesthetics into Today’s World of Sports

Authors: Matthew McNees

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An inductive aesthetic approach to sports yields critical and meaningful insight into sports philosophy, sports governance, and sports history. Critical reflection will always remain key to the analysis of the past, present and future of sporting institutions, but a philosophically imaginative method of induction allows certain salient connections to be articulated and potentially implemented between various sporting entities who exist as individuals, particularly between practitioner, owner/manager and observer (‘fan’ or interested party.) By honing in on the concept of beauty in sports, the primary reason for viewership, consumption or engagement with sports comes into focus as an aesthetic concept. While always a subjective or shadowy articulation, an aesthetic state often remains unnecessarily unrevealed due to claims about unconscious states, entire rhetorics (or counter-rhetorics) about beauty, and Misalliance among sporting development systems. Since aesthetics require an inductive state of subjectivity in determining various levels of beauty (which the so-called world of sports often thinks of as morality), the audience for aesthetics in sports also needs an inductive explanation of the concept in which one comes to see a process of viewership at work within themselves that is revealed by a simple need parried outward by a complex process of engagement. The potentially redemptive moment of revelation regarding the beauty of sports and the athlete within these systems creates in the viewer a new space of consciousness where the world of sports discovers some of its longed-for transparency, openness, parity and equity upon which its immediate future depends.

Keywords: aesthetics, governance, history, philosophy

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173 The Risk of Deaths from Viral Hepatitis among the Female Workers in the Beauty Service Industry

Authors: Byeongju Choi, Sanggil Lee, Kyung-Eun Lee

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Introduction: In the republic of Korea, the number of workers in the beauty industry has been increasing. Because the prevalence of hepatitis B carriers in Korea is higher than in other countries, the risk of blood-borne infection including viral hepatitis B and C, among the workers by using the sharp and contaminated instruments during procedure can be expected among beauty salon workers. However, the health care policies for the workers to prevent the blood-borne infection are not established due to the lack of evidences. Moreover, the workers in hair and nail salon were mostly employed at small businesses, where national mandatory systems or policies for workers’ health management are not applied. In this study, the risk of the viral hepatitis B and C from the job experiencing the hair and nail procedures in the mortality was assessed. Method: We conducted a retrospective review of the job histories and causes of death in the female deaths from 2006-2016. 132,744 of female deaths who had one more job experiences during their lifetime were included in this study. Job histories were assessed using the employment insurance database in Korea Employment Information Service (KEIS) and the causes of death were in death statistics produced by Statistics Korea. Case group (n= 666) who died from viral hepatitis was classified the death having record involved in ‘B15-B19’ as a cause of deaths based on Korean Standard Classification of Diseases(KCD) with the deaths from other causes, control group (n=132,078). The group of the workers in the beauty service industry were defined as the employees who had ever worked in the industry coded as ‘9611’ based on Korea Standard Industry Classification (KSIC) and others were others. Other than job histories, birth year, marital status, education level were investigated from the death statistics. Multiple logistic regression analysis were used to assess the risk of deaths from viral hepatitis in the case and control group. Result: The number of the deaths having ever job experiences at the hair and nail salon was 255. After adjusting confounders of age, marital status and education, the odds ratio(OR) for deaths from viral hepatitis was quite high in the group having experiences with working in the beauty service industry with 3.14(95% confidence interval(CI) 1.00-9.87). Other associated factors with increasing the risk of deaths from viral hepatitis were low education level(OR=1.34, 95% CI 1.04-1.73), married women (OR=1.42, 95% CI 1.02-1.97). Conclusion: The risk of deaths from viral hepatitis were high in the workers in the beauty service industry but not statistically significant, which might attributed from the small number of workers in beauty service industry. It was likely that the number of workers in beauty service industry could be underestimated due to their temporary job position. Further studies evaluating the status and the incidence of viral infection among the workers with consideration of the vertical transmission would be required.

Keywords: beauty service, viral hepatitis, blood-borne infection, viral infection

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172 The Cost of Beauty: Insecurity and Profit

Authors: D. Cole, S. Mahootian, P. Medlock

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This research contributes to existing knowledge of the complexities surrounding women’s relationship to beauty standards by examining their lived experiences. While there is much academic work on the effects of culturally imposed and largely unattainable beauty standards, the arguments tend to fall into two paradigms. On the one hand is the radical feminist perspective that argues that women are subjected to absolute oppression within the patriarchal system in which beauty standards have been constructed. This position advocates for a complete restructuring of social institutions to liberate women from all types of oppression. On the other hand, there are liberal feminist arguments that focus on choice, arguing that women’s agency in how to present themselves is empowerment. These arguments center around what women do within the patriarchal system in order to liberate themselves. However, there is very little research on the lived experiences of women negotiating these two realms: the complex negotiation between the pressure to adhere to cultural beauty standards and the agency of self-expression and empowerment. By exploring beauty standards through the intersection of societal messages (including macro-level processes such as social media and advertising as well as smaller-scale interactions such as families and peers) and lived experiences, this study seeks to provide a nuanced understanding of how women navigate and negotiate their own presentation and sense of self-identity. Current research sees a rise in incidents of body dysmorphia, depression and anxiety since the advent of social media. Approximately 91% of women are unhappy with their bodies and resort to dieting to achieve their ideal body shape, but only 5% of women naturally possess the body type often portrayed by Americans in movies and media. It is, therefore, crucial we begin talking about the processes that are affecting self-image and mental health. A question that arises is that, given these negative effects, why do companies continue to advertise and target women with standards that very few could possibly attain? One obvious answer is that keeping beauty standards largely unattainable enables the beauty and fashion industries to make large profits by promising products and procedures that will bring one up to “standard”. The creation of dissatisfaction for some is profit for others. This research utilizes qualitative methods: interviews, questionnaires, and focus groups to investigate women’s relationships to beauty standards and empowerment. To this end, we reached out to potential participants through a video campaign on social media: short clips on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok and a longer clip on YouTube inviting users to take part in the study. Participants are asked to react to images, videos, and other beauty-related texts. The findings of this research have implications for policy development, advocacy and interventions aimed at promoting healthy inclusivity and empowerment of women.

Keywords: women, beauty, consumerism, social media

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171 Research on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Calligraphy Art Under The Cross-Cultural Background Based on Eye Tracking

Authors: Liu Yang

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Calligraphy has a unique aesthetic value in Chinese traditional culture. Calligraphy reflects the physical beauty and the dynamic beauty of things through the structure of writing and the order of strokes to standardize the style of writing. In recent years, Chinese researchers have carried out research on the appreciation of calligraphy works from the perspective of psychology, such as how Chinese people appreciate the beauty of stippled lines, the beauty of virtual and real, and the beauty of the composition. However, there is currently no domestic research on how foreigners appreciate Chinese calligraphy. People's appreciation of calligraphy is mainly in the form of visual perception, and psychologists have been working on the use of eye trackers to record eye tracking data to explore the relationship between eye tracking and psychological activities. The purpose of this experimental study is to use eye tracking recorders to analyze the eye gaze trajectories of college students with different cultural backgrounds when they appreciate the same calligraphy work to reveal the differences in cognitive processing with different cultural backgrounds. It was found that Chinese students perceived calligraphy as words when viewing calligraphy works, so they first noticed fonts with easily recognizable glyphs, and the overall viewed time was short. Foreign students perceived calligraphy works as graphics, and they first noticed novel and abstract fonts, and the overall viewing time is longer. The understanding of calligraphy content has a certain influence on the appreciation of calligraphy works by foreign students. It is shown that when foreign students who understand the content of calligraphy works. The eye tracking path is more consistent with the calligraphy writing path, and it helps to develop associations with calligraphy works to better understand the connotation of calligraphy works. This result helps us understand the impact of cultural background differences on calligraphy appreciation and helps us to take more effective strategies to help foreign audiences understand Chinese calligraphy art.

Keywords: Chinese calligraphy, eye-tracking, cross-cultural, cultural communication

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170 Jurisprudential Terms of Istiḥālah (Transformation) in Cosmetic Products (An Analytical Study)

Authors: Hassan Sher

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God has made this world with all of his essences and beautified it with his countless blessings. In Islam, no doubt, beauty is a very important characteristic but also an aspect of the body and the heart. In a world where the standards of beauty seem to change from year to year according to trends and norms. Moreover, in this world, many people want to look good and feel satisfied and will be willing to go through many ways for their ideal look. likewise, several products came into use for beautifying, cleansing, and promoting attractiveness. These products include components of cosmetics, they are utilized for health and beauty purposes. There are concerns regarding the existence of harmful or ḥarām chemicals, but With the advancement in (technology), it results in the transformation of unlawful and forbidden cosmetic products into permissible several new ingredients and products. The process of transforming certain items or products from one form to another, Muslim jurists tend to use terms like Istiḥālah (transformation).Istiḥālah is an Islamic principle unknown to many Muslims. LinguisticallyIstiḥālah carries the meaning of a transformation or a change in the nature of a thing into something else.According to the religious contact, Istiḥālah signifies a turning of a matter from a state of impurity or inedibility into a matter of different nature, name, properties, and characteristics (colour, taste, and smell) (Zuhayli, 1997). This principle, which is unanimously accepted by Muslim scholars, are breaths of fresh air to Muslims suffering from the suffocation of excessive prohibition. This will allow the invention to be utilized fully. This research tends to highlight the different ideological concepts of Istiḥālah from the perspective of Islamic Shariah and jurisprudence and its application in cosmetic products. However, the study focuses on the issues related to alcohol and pig ingredients in beauty products.

Keywords: istiḥālah. harām, jurisprudence, cosmetic, pig

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169 Associations Between Positive Body Image, Physical Activity and Dietary Habits in Young Adults

Authors: Samrah Saeed

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Introduction: This study considers a measure of positive body image and the associations between body appreciation, beauty ideals internalization, dietary habits, and physical activity in young adults. Positive body image is assessed by Body Appreciation Scale 2. It is used to assess a person's acceptance of the body, the degree of positivity, and respect for the body.Regular physical activity and healthy eating arebasically important for the body, and they play an important role in creating a positive image of the body. Objectives: To identify the associations between body appreciation and beauty ideals internalization. To compare body appreciation and body ideals internalization among students of different physical activity. To explore the associations between dietary habits (unhealthy, healthy), body appreciation and body ideals internalization. Research methods and organization: Study participants were young adult students, aged 18-35, both male and female.The research questionnaire consisted of four areas: body appreciation, beauty ideals internalization, dietary habits, and physical activity.The questionnaire was created in Google Forms online survey platform.The questionnaire was filled out anonymously Result and Discussion: Physical dissatisfaction, diet, eating disorders and exercise disorders are found in young adults all over the world.Thorough nutrition helps people understand who they are by reassuring them that they are okay without judging or accepting themselves. Social media can positively influence body image in many ways.A healthy body image is important because it affect self-esteem, self-acceptance, and your attitude towards food and exercise.

Keywords: pysical activity, dietary habits, body image, beauty ideals internalization, body appreciation

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168 Ultrastructure of the Tongue of the African Beauty Snake Psammophis sibilans

Authors: Mohamed M. A. Abumandour, Neveen E. R. El-Bakary

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The present work performed on the six tongues of African Beauty snake (Psammophis sibilans) that were obtained immediately after their catching, from agricultural fields, Desouk city, Kafrelsheikh Governorate, Egypt. These collected snakes should be from any oral abnormalities or injuries. The lingual surface of the Psammophis sibilans was studied by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The surface of the bifurcated apex was smoother than the lingual body. The median lingual sulcus was deep and contained a number of the taste pores. By the high magnification of SEM of each part of a bifurcated area of the lingual apex have numerous taste buds and no lingual papillae were observed. A few numbers of papillae were observed in the lingual body. The microridges and microvilli distributed in the lingual body helped in spreading of mucus over the epithelial surface. Taste pores and papillae in the tongue indicate the presence of a direct chemo-sensory function for the tongue of these snakes as the chemicals dissolved in the mucus then transferred to Jacobson organ. To conclude, the bifurcation appearance of the snake lingual tip act as a chemical or edge detector help in the process named chemo-mechano-reception.

Keywords: African beauty snake, taste buds, taste pores, tongue, papillae

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167 Monstrous Beauty: Disability and Illness in Contemporary Pop Culture

Authors: Grzegorz Kubinski

Abstract:

In the proposed paper, we would like to present the phenomenon of disease and disability as an element of discourse redefining the contemporary canons of beauty and the category of normativity. In widely understood media, and above all in social media and fashion industry, the use of the disease as an aesthetic category has long been observed. There is an interesting case of promoting and maintaining a certain, ideal pattern of physical beauty, while at the same time very clear exploitation of various types of illnesses. The categories of disease and disabled body are shown as an element of the expression of the individuality and originality of one's own identity, while at the same time the disabled person is still experiencing social exclusion. Illness or body abnormality as an aesthetic category also functions as an ethical-political category. The analysis of the interrelations of these discourses will be presented on the example of selected projects present in social media, like Instagram or Facebook. We would like to present how old forms of 'curiosities' or 'abnormalities' turned into mainstream forms of a new aesthetic. For marginalized disabled people, there is a new form of expression and built their identity. But, there is an interesting point: are this contemporary forms of using disability and illness really new? Or maybe this is just another form of Wunderkammer or even cabinets of curiosities? We propose to analyze contemporary cultural and social context in order to clarify this issue. On the other hand, we would like to present some examples from personal interviews with disabled internet influencers and statements disabled persons concerning the role of the different body in society (e.g. #bodypositive, #perfeclyflawed).

Keywords: disability, new media, defect, fashion

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166 Re-interpreting Ruskin with Respect to the Wall

Authors: Anjali Sadanand, R. V. Nagarajan

Abstract:

Architecture morphs with advances in technology and the roof, wall, and floor as basic elements of a building, follow in redefining themselves over time. Their contribution is bound by time and held by design principles that deal with function, sturdiness, and beauty. Architecture engages with people to give joy through its form, material, design structure, and spatial qualities. This paper attempts to re-interpret John Ruskin’s “Seven lamps of Architecture” in the context of the architecture of the modern and present period. The paper focuses on the “wall” as an element of study in this context. Four of Ruskin’s seven lamps will be discussed, namely beauty, truth, life, and memory, through examples of architecture ranging from modernism to contemporary architecture of today. The study will focus on the relevance of Ruskin’s principles to the “wall” in specific, in buildings of different materials and over a range of typologies from all parts of the world. Two examples will be analyzed for each lamp. It will be shown that in each case, there is relevance to the significance of Ruskin’s lamps in modern and contemporary architecture. Nature to which Ruskin alludes to for his lamp of “beauty” is found in the different expressions of interpretation used by Corbusier in his Villa Stein façade based on proportion found in nature and in the direct expression of Toyo Ito in his translation of an understanding of the structure of trees into his façade design of the showroom for a Japanese bag boutique. “Truth” is shown in Mies van der Rohe’s Crown Hall building with its clarity of material and structure and Studio Mumbai’s Palmyra House, which celebrates the use of natural materials and local craftsmanship. “Life” is reviewed with a sustainable house in Kerala by Ashrams Ravi and Alvar Aalto’s summer house, which illustrate walls as repositories of intellectual thought and craft. “Memory” is discussed with Charles Correa’s Jawahar Kala Kendra and Venturi’s Vana Venturi house and discloses facades as text in the context of its materiality and iconography. Beauty is reviewed in Villa Stein and Toyo Ito’s Branded Retail building in Tokyo. The paper thus concludes that Ruskin’s Lamps can be interpreted in today’s context and add richness to meaning to the understanding of architecture.

Keywords: beauty, design, facade, modernism

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165 Customised Wellness Solutions Using Health Technological Platforms: An Exploratory Research Protocol

Authors: Elaine Wong Yee-Sing, Liaw Wee Tong

Abstract:

Rapid transformations in demographic and socioeconomic shifts are leading to a growing global demand for health and beauty products and services that demands holistic concepts of well-being. In addition, technological breakthroughs such as internet of things make it convenient and offer innovative solutions for well-being and engage consumers to track their own health conditions and fitness goals. This 'new health economy' encompasses three key concepts: well-being, well-conditioned and well-shaped; which are shaped by wellness segments and goals that influence purchasing decisions of consumers. The research protocol aims to examine the feasibility, challenges, and capabilities in provision for each customer with an ecosystem, or platform, that organizes data and insights to create an individual health and fitness, nutrition, and beauty profile. Convenience sampling of 100 consumers residing in private housing within five major districts in Singapore will be selected to participate in the study. Statistical Package for Social Science 25 will be used to conduct descriptive statistics for quantitative data while qualitative data results using focus interviews, will be translated and transcribed to identify improvements in provision of these services. Rising income in emerging global markets is fuelling the demand for these general wellbeing products and services. Combined with technological advances, it is imperative to understand how these highly personalized services with integrated technology can be designed better to support consumer preferences; provide greater flexibility and high-quality service, and generate better health awareness among consumers.

Keywords: beauty, consumers, health, technology, wellness

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164 The Art of Contemporary Arabic Calligraphy in Oman: Salman Alhajri as an Example

Authors: Salman Amur Alhajri

Abstract:

Purpose: This paper explores the art of contemporary Arabic calligraphy in Oman. It explains the aesthetic features of Arabic calligraphy as a unique icon of Islamic art. This paper also explores the profile of one Omani artist, Salman Alhajri, as an example of Omani artists who have developed unique styles in this art stream. Methodology and approach: The paper is based on a theoretical study using a descriptive and case-study approach. Omani artists are fascinated by the art forms of Arabic calligraphy, which combine both spiritual meaning and aesthetic beauty. Artist Salman Alhajri is an example of a contemporary Arabic artist who uses Arabic calligraphy as the main theme in his art. Dr. Alhajri is trying to introduce the beauty of Arabic letters from a new aesthetic point of view. He also aims to create unusual visual effects that viewers can easily interact with. Even though words and phrases appear in Alhajri’s artwork, they are not conveying direct meanings: viewers can create their own meaning or expressions from them by appreciating the compositions of the artwork. Results: Arabic writing is directly related to the identity of Omani artists and their cultural background. This paper shows how the beauty of Arabic letters comes from its indefinite possibilities in designing calligraphic expressions, even within a single word, because letters can be stretched and transformed in various ways to create different compositions. Omani artists are interested in employing new media applications in this kind of practice to find new techniques for creating artwork based on Arabic writing. It is really important for all Omani artists to practice this art style because Arabic calligraphy and its flexibility introduce infinite possibilities that involve further exploration and investigation.

Keywords: Islamic art, contemporary Arabic calligraphy, new techniques, Omani artist

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163 'Ebru', the Art of Marbling in Fashion Design between the Functional and Beauty Purpose of the Designs

Authors: Nessreen Elmelegy

Abstract:

Fashion is all about being fun, stylish and looking beautiful in your own way, whether it is with clothes, accessories, hairstyles, and even furniture. There are never ending ways and sources when wanting to seek inspiration. Fashion designers can get inspired by anything and everything that encompasses them in their everyday lives. When getting inspired, there are no boundaries or limits to when it comes to exploring one's originality and fashion sense. All designers focus on being unique, original and trendy when taking inspiration and transforming that into fashionable and wearable garments. Ebru is a Turkish art. The actual word 'Ebru' in Turkish means marbling. Marbling is the art which help designers to create innovative and rich and colorful patterns in fashion designs. By using this technique we will have countless unique designs in fashion because each design can never be repeated. It is a traditional Turkish art which is designated as one of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2014. Ebru art has spread from the East to the West by way of Silk Road and other trade routes. So this research is focused on studying the history and the techniques of Ebru art in fashion as an amazing trend of fashion, which is still stranger to the Egyptian Fashion industry; also how we can benefit from the incorporation of Ebru art as into the garments designs while still maintaining the functional and beauty purpose of the design.

Keywords: Ebru Art, Ebru techniques, fashion inspiration, fashion trends

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162 Gendered Narratives of ‘Respectability’: Migrant Garo Women and Their Access to Sexual and Reproductive Health and Rights

Authors: A. Drong, K. S. Kerkhoff

Abstract:

Migration affects women’s sexual and reproductive health and rights. This paper reports on the social constructs of gender, and livelihood pursuits as beauty parlours workers amongst the young Garo women in Bangladesh, and studies changes in their accessibility to the healthcare services due to migration and livelihood. The paper is based on in-depth interviews and participant-led group discussions with 30 women working in various beauty parlours across the city. The data indicate that social perceptions of ‘good’, ‘bad’ and ‘respectable’ determine the expression of sexuality, and often dictates sexual and reproductive practices for these women. This study also reveals that unregulated work conditions, and the current cost of local healthcare services, have a strong impact on the women’s accessibility to the healthcare services; thus often limiting their choices to only customary and/or unqualified practitioners for abortions and child-births. Development programmes on migrant indigenous women’s health must, therefore, take the contextual gender norms and livelihood choices into account.

Keywords: gender, indigenous women, reproductive rights, sexual rights, Garo, migration, livelihood, healthcare

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161 Aesthetics and Semiotics in Theatre Performance

Authors: Păcurar Diana Istina

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Structured in three chapters, the article attempts an X-ray of the theatrical aesthetics, correctly understood through the emotions generated in the intimate structure of the spectator that precedes the triggering of the viewer’s perception and not through the superposition, unfortunately common, of the notion of aesthetics with the style in which a theater show is built. The first chapter contains a brief history of the appearance of the word aesthetic, the formulation of definitions for this new term, as well as its connections with the notions of semiotics, in particular with the perception of the message transmitted. Starting with Aristotle and Plato, and reaching Magritte, their interventions should not be interpreted in the sense that the two scientific concepts can merge into one discipline. The perception that is the object of everyone’s analysis, the understanding of meaning, the decoding of the messages sent, and the triggering of feelings that culminate in pleasure, shaping the aesthetic vision, are some elements that keep semiotics and aesthetics distinct, even though they share many methods of analysis. The compositional processes of aesthetic representation and symbolic formation are analyzed in the second part of the paper from perspectives that include or do not include historical, cultural, social, and political processes. Aesthetics and the organization of its symbolic process are treated, taking into account expressive activity. The last part of the article explores the notion of aesthetics in applied theater, more specifically in the theater show. Taking the postmodern approach that aesthetics applies to the creation of an artifact and the reception of that artifact, the intervention of these elements in the theatrical system must be emphasized –that is, the analysis of the problems arising in the stages of the creation, presentation, and reception, by the public, of the theater performance. The aesthetic process is triggered involuntarily, simultaneously, or before the moment when people perceive the meaning of the messages transmitted by the work of art. The finding of this fact makes the mental process of aesthetics similar or related to that of semiotics. No matter how perceived individually, beauty, the mechanism of production can be reduced to two. The first step presents similarities to Peirce’s model, but the process between signified and signified additionally stimulates the related memory of the evaluation of beauty, adding to the meanings related to the signification itself. Then, the second step, a process of comparison, is followed, in which one examines whether the object being looked at matches the accumulated memory of beauty. Therefore, even though aesthetics is derived from the conceptual part, the judgment of beauty and, more than that, moral judgment come to be so important to the social activities of human beings that it evolves as a visible process independent of other conceptual contents.

Keywords: aesthetics, semiotics, symbolic composition, subjective joints, signifying, signified

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160 Bed Scenes Allurement as Entertainment and Selling Point in Nigeria's Nollywood Movie Industry

Authors: Ojinime E. Ojiakor, Allen N. Adum

Abstract:

We report on bed scenes allurement as entertainment and selling point in Nigeria’s Nollywood movie industry. In recent times, there has been an increase in the portrayal of bed scenes in Nollywood movies. Before now, Nigerian film producers have been very conservative when it comes to showing sex and nudity. This appears to have changed in line with global trends. Movie industries all over the world appear a haven for delectable women who glamorize our screens, not only with their beauty but also their acting skills. At Hollywood, Bollywood, Ghollywood and the like, pretty actresses with sensuous endowments engage in bed scenes which allure the minds of viewers. The idea that, a ravishing beauty on cast is as good as a box office hit apparently drives Nigerian film producers to incorporate bed scenes in their movies. In this era of sex crusade where what sells is sex and maybe a little bit of violence, there is the suggestion that producers believe that if the talent of an actress doesn’t do the trick, the sexiness she exudes is bound to get attention. Against this backdrop, our study examined bed scenes depiction by Nollywood films, in an attempt to establish if their allurement influences the choice of movie and purchase decisions of target markets. We assessed Nollywood films and viewer preference using the mixed method approach. Our findings reveal that bed scenes, as portrayed in Nigerian movies are a significant determinant of which films to watch and which films to purchase among the respondents studied.

Keywords: allurement, bed scenes, nollywood, selling point

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159 Yoghurt Kepel Stelechocarpus burahol as an Effort of Functional Food Diversification from Region of Yogyakarta

Authors: Dian Nur Amalia, Rifqi Dhiemas Aji, Tri Septa Wahyuningsih, Endang Wahyuni

Abstract:

Kepel fruit (Stelechocarpus burahol) is a scarce fruit that belongs as a logogram of Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta. Kepel fruit can be used as substance of beauty treatment product, such as deodorant and good for skin health, and also contains antioxidant compound. Otherwise, this fruit is scarcely cultivated by people because of its image as a palace fruit and also the flesh percentage just a little, so it has low economic value. The flesh of kepel fruit is about 49% of its whole fruit. This little part as supporting point why kepel fruit has to be extracted and processed with the other product. Yoghurt is milk processing product that also have a role as functional food. Economically, the price of yoghurt is higher than whole milk or other milk processing product. Yoghurt is usually added with flavor of dye from plant or from chemical substance. Kepel fruit has a role as flavor in yoghurt, besides as product that good for digestion, yoghurt with kepel also has function as “beauty” food. Writing method that used is literature study by looking for the potential of kepel fruit as a local fruit of Yogyakarta and yoghurt as milk processing product. The process just like making common yoghurt because kepel fruit just have a role as flavor substance, so it does not affect to the other processing of yoghurt. Food diversification can be done as an effort to increase the value of local resources that proper to compete in Asean Economic Community (AEC), one of the way is producing kepel yoghurt.

Keywords: kepel, yoghurt, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta, functional food

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