Abstracts | Materials and Textile Engineering
Commenced in January 2007
Frequency: Monthly
Edition: International
Paper Count: 416

World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology

[Materials and Textile Engineering]

Online ISSN : 1307-6892

416 Design Intelligence: No Free Lunch Theorem for Artistic Creativity and Technical Creativity in Garment Design

Authors: Kanwar Varinder Pal Singh, Kanwar Hridye Pratap Singh

Abstract:

Smart Studios aims to create distinct fusions of art, design, and technology. Artifacts form our environment. We construct reality through acts and nature that create material and immaterial structures: artifacts. Professional designers make some of these within the framework of the market economy, individuals make some for personal use, and some come about through political decision-making. In these areas, an interest in design is growing ever stronger. One reason for this is the present-day criticism of the scientific view, which has characterized our thinking since the beginning of the modern era. A scientific view that researchers ‘discover’ and ‘reveal’ the secrets of nature, and were well-being and progress are simply a matter of finding the right stratagem or mathematical formula. In a constructivist worldview, however, the active creation of meaning, i.e. design, becomes central. There are no algorithms for how we shall build a good future. Social science becomes increasingly less dependent on natural science. Scientific activity is also something that is formed. Design was seen as an alternative to the reductionist engineer’s development method. One way of creating holistic solutions focuses on the user’s experience rather than on technical functionality.

Keywords: SWOT, POWER, PESTLE, REM, meta- heuristics

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415 Modeling the Effects of Digital Exposure and Personality on Generation Z's Sustainable Fashion Consumption: Integrating Structural Equation Modeling with Interpretable Machine Learning Analysis

Authors: Andralyn N. Yao

Abstract:

The $2.5 trillion global fashion sector is being increasingly challenged by powerful forces stemming from economic vitality, social well‐being, and environmental strain. For example, used textiles end up in landfills, making the fashion industry a significant contributor to waste, emissions, and non-sustainable practices. Gen Z is poised to become the dominant purchasing demographic, and their purchasing behaviors will direct the sustainability of the future fashion economy. Despite the significance of this phenomenon, there is a critical gap in understanding the interconnections among Gen Z’s psychological factors, digital exposure, and motivation in sustainable fashion consumption. To address this gap, we introduced ESSENTIA (ESSEntial Needs Targets Intelligence & Analysis), an integrated research framework that combines traditional Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) with interpretable machine learning, e.g., Artificial Neural Network aided with SHapley Additive exPlanations (ANN-SHAP). ESSENTIA not only tests structural hypotheses but also brings explanatory AI modeling to address the research questions in the following steps. (1) Survey design: The survey items were constructed in three categories: Big Five Personality Traits, attitude-behavior pathways in sustainable consumption, and social media exposure. Based on the target population of interest, more than 350 university students were surveyed. (2) System mapping: SEM was used to test directional hypotheses among Personality Traits, Digital Exposure, and Sustainable Fashion Consumption Motivation. (3) Features ranking: Based on the SEM result, ANN-SHAP was conducted to rank the contributions of different features (predictors), translating statistical correlations into actionable priorities. (4) Cross‐validation: Convergence between SEM pathways and ANN-SHAP rankings provided holistic narratives and offered specific descriptions based on individual factors contributing to targets. SEM identified motivational pathways involving Digital Exposure. First, two personality traits, Extraversion and Neuroticism, correlated with positive emotional responses toward sustainable fashion. Second, Sustainable Product Evaluation captured how intensely consumers scrutinized eco‐labels, traceability disclosures, and production transparency; this construct linked personality traits of Agreeableness and Openness to clearer purchase intentions. Interestingly, Openness in the absence of Digital Exposure did not guarantee pro‐sustainable action; this trait was associated with a dampened response, possibly due to consumer skepticism towards the authenticity of sustainable products. ANN-SHAP provided qualitative and quantitative information, suggesting that Sustainable Product Evaluation is the strongest driver of sustainable consumption, meanwhile, ranking social media platforms in affecting the motivations of sustainable fashion consumption. Specifically, two platforms, Pinterest (image‐curation environment) and Facebook (community‐oriented platform), were found to amplify sustainability communication effects. In contrast, YouTube (long-format video) could dilute sustainability communication, whereas Instagram and other platforms (e.g., TikTok) showed a trivial, if not negative impact. These asymmetries challenge ‘one-size-fits-all’ social‐media strategies in marketing sustainable fashion consumption. While this study is exploratory in nature, the knowledge generated sheds light on the global fashion market. ESSENTIA can help brands pinpoint where to invest marketing resources and what narratives to use to effectively translate Gen Z’s potential sustainability concerns into purchasing behaviors. Policymakers and NGOs could potentially benefit from a more defined roadmap in developing industry standards and educational campaigns that resonate cognitively and emotionally with young consumers.

Keywords: sustainable fashion consumption, social media influence, structural equation modeling (SEM), interpretable machine learning, generation Z

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414 Finishing of Silk with Sericin via in-situ Amidation

Authors: Debasish Das, Suphal Kanti Som

Abstract:

In-situ amidation of degummed silk fabric with sericin was done following a pad-dry-cure technique in order to improve the crease recovery of degummed silk fabric. Sericin obtained as a by product of degumming process was depolymerised and subsequently reapplied on silk in the presence of combination of borax-boric acid as catalyst for amidation. Padding of degummed silk at pH 6 with aqueous 4% sericin at 30°C; drying of the padded fabric at 90°C for 5 min and subsequent curing of the dried fabric at 120°C for 5 min produced balanced improvements in the properties of sericin treated silk such as crease recovery, antimicrobial property, ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) , strength and flexibility. FTIR spectroscopy shows that borax-boric acid system at pH 6 allowed lewis acid catalysed amidation reaction to take place between free –COOH and free –NH₂ groups of both of degummed fibroin and depolymerised sericin, ultimately leading to some degree of crosslinking of chain polymers of fibroin. The incorporation of sericin led to improvements in the antimicrobial properties of silk fabric owing to its cationic nature that reportedly caused disruption of the bacterial cell membranes and inhibited metabolism as a consequence. Incorporation of sericin also led to enhanced UPF of degummed silk due to its antioxidant property that could potentially resist ultraviolet radiation-induced oxidative damage through maintaining redox balance. Scanning electron microscopy of sericin finished silk shows gritty deposition and retention of globular sericin on its surface, even when finished fabric was subjected to 10 wash cycles.

Keywords: silk, sericin, fibroin, amidation, crosslinking

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413 Sustainable Practice of Sourcing and Production of a Garment Supply Chain in Bangladesh

Authors: Nafisa Nawer Chowdhury Neelima, Fahim Reza, Saleh Ahammad Lablu Miah

Abstract:

The fashion industry of Bangladesh is one of the leading exporters of ready-made garments in the world. The supply chains of the country face challenges in complying with their business frameworks due to the growing demand for global sustainable ethical practices. The research evaluates the sourcing and manufacturing operations of a Bangladeshi garments supplier, AZS Sourcing Ltd, to assess its operational quality concerning sustainability standards while analyzing its commitment to the Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 8 and SDG 12. The study utilized qualitative case study methods to collect data through direct observations, participant interactions, and informal interviews for the requirement of a three-month internship for a bachelor’s degree at the Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology’s Bachelor of Fashion Design and Technology in Bangladesh. The sustainable operations of AZS Sourcing Ltd in Bangladesh met ethical sourcing with eco-conscious production and compliance with international labour standards in most cases. The organization utilizes resources efficiently and minimizes waste while employing environmentally friendly materials. Furthermore, the company upholds its commitment to social manufacturing responsibility through certified factory partnerships and comprehensive factory information sharing. Progress in quality and sustainability at all levels is ensured through combined training programs and ongoing monitoring systems. These initiatives bolster environmental and social well-being, as well as enhance Bangladesh's position in the global apparel market. However, AZS Sourcing Ltd encounters challenges in implementing gender equity and transparent reporting in its operations, which hinders its ability to fully align with SDG 8 and SDG 12. This research underscores the importance of Bangladesh’s apparel industry preparing for global industrial trends and sustainable supply chain practices, as it provides critical insights into current obstacles and potential areas for growth.

Keywords: merchandising, compliance, quality control, production process, sustainability

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412 Anthocyanin and Thyme Oil Embedded Carrageenan-PVA Towards Bioactive and Ph-sensitive Food-packaging Materials

Authors: Othmane Dardari, Mohamed Amine Benzaouia, Ayoub El Idrissi, Ghita Radi Benjellound, Abdelouahed El Gharrak, Mohamed El Ouardi, Abdelkrim El Kadib

Abstract:

Consumer interest in smart food packaging is rapidly growing due to its ability to monitor food quality in real time. These packages not only track changes in the product but also help prevent microbial growth, extending food shelf life and safety. A prime example is anthocyanin-containing packaging, which visually indicates pH changes through color shifts. it herein illustrate this approach by designing biocompatible and biodegradable packaging containing anthocyanin and thyme oil entrapping bio-based carrageenan (CR) blended with polyvinylalcool (PVA) films. Incorporating thyme oil and anthocyanin into carrageenan/polyvinyl alcohol (CR/PVA) films has significantly enhanced the desired mechanical properties of the biodegradable packaging. Specifically, flexibility increased by 20% compared to the pristine CR/PVA film. Moreover, the physical properties of the films improved, with a reduction in water vapor permeability (WVP) from 1.74 to 1.30 and an increase in the water contact angle (WCA) from 60.5° to 89.5°, indicating enhanced hydrophobicity. Additionally, the resulting films exhibited substantial antimicrobial potential particularly against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, along with strong antioxidant properties, surpassing the performance of the original CR/PVA films. The incorporation of anthocyanin endowed the films with high pH sensitivity, enabling effective visual detection of pH changes. Stability tests showed that anthocyanins degrade under temperature and light exposure. However, their incorporation into CR/PVA films significantly improved stability by reducing degradation. This enhancement highlights their potential for smart, protective food packaging.Consumer interest in smart food packaging is rapidly growing due to its ability to monitor food quality in real time. These packages not only track changes in the product but also help prevent microbial growth, extending food shelf life and safety. A prime example is anthocyanin-containing packaging, which visually indicates pH changes through color shifts. We herein illustrate this approach by designing biocompatible and biodegradable packaging containing anthocyanin and thyme oil entrapping bio-based carrageenan (CR) blended with polyvinylalcool (PVA) films. Incorporating thyme oil and anthocyanin into carrageenan/polyvinyl alcohol (CR/PVA) films has significantly enhanced the desired mechanical properties of the biodegradable packaging. Specifically, flexibility increased by 20% compared to the pristine CR/PVA film. Moreover, the physical properties of the films improved, with a reduction in water vapor permeability (WVP) from 1.74 to 1.30 and an increase in the water contact angle (WCA) from 60.5° to 89.5°, indicating enhanced hydrophobicity. Additionally, the resulting films exhibited substantial antimicrobial potential particularly against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, along with strong antioxidant properties, surpassing the performance of the original CR/PVA films. The incorporation of anthocyanin endowed the films with high pH sensitivity, enabling effective visual detection of pH changes. Stability tests showed that anthocyanins degrade under temperature and light exposure. However, their incorporation into CR/PVA films significantly improved stability by reducing degradation. This enhancement highlights their potential for smart, protective food packaging.

Keywords: smart packaging, anthocyanin, thyme oil, food safety

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411 Standardisation of Handloom Processes and Products

Authors: Unsanhame Mawkhlieng

Abstract:

The unorganized handloom sector in India encounters low consumer demand. Despite the Indian government's significant efforts to support the sector, preserving traditional techniques, and promoting products both domestically and internationally through initiatives like the National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP), Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC), and Handloom Mark, demand has not seen substantial improvement. While these efforts primarily focus on upgrading artisans' skills, product promotion, and authenticating existing products, this paper delves into the underlying causes of low demand and proposes solutions targeted at the production stages rather than merely focusing on finished products. The proposed solutions cover the major stages of fabric manufacturing, from hand spinning to the final grading process. These solutions prioritize minimal use of machinery to accommodate artisans' skills and preserve the traditional essence and texture of handloom products, for which they are highly valued. The key area of focus is the consistency of products in terms of fabric properties (yarn spacing, color, smoothness, and faults) and dimensions. In hand spinning, employing tandem carding and spinning wheels may offer a practical solution for producing more even yarns, leading to better outcomes. In dyeing, whether at the yarn or fabric stage, optimizing the natural dyeing process is recommended through controlled parameters. Here, the use of dyeing charts with pre-calculated data for intended shades for various natural dyes can be useful for artisans who may not be comfortable with complex calculations. Moreover, a color chart to compare the targeted or nominal shade with the final result is recommended at the end of the dyeing process. For warping, standardizing the number of spindles and rounds is suggested to regulate fabric properties such as yarn spacing, evenness and areal density. Here also, a ready-to-use chart that incorporates the intended product's dimensions, yarn spacing, and expected areal density is suggested and provided. In weaving, controlling end spacing with standardized reeds and adjusting pick spacing by regulating the beating force can be achieved through minor modifications to the existing looms. Furthermore, a simplified fabric inspection system is introduced to grade fabrics into three quality categories. These proposed solutions aim to create more uniform and visually appealing fabrics and products. The paper also advocates for the establishment of a certification agency, like the Handloom Mark, to grade and authenticate products. The suggested solutions would assist this agency in adopting a more objective approach to certification, fostering greater trust among consumers.

Keywords: handloom, hand weaving, hand spinning, hand dyeing, natural dyeing, standardisation

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410 Sustainable Textile Processing Using Microbial Biosurfactants

Authors: Filipa Soares, Rita Beiral, Marilia Berezuk, Isabel Alves, Aurore Loudet, Nádia Eusébio

Abstract:

The increasing exploitation of natural resources and industrial activities have led to significant environmental degradation. Petroleum-based products, particularly surfactants used across various industries, are a major source of pollution due to their low biodegradability. While plant-based surfactants have been proposed as greener alternatives, they often require extensive agricultural resources, including land, water, and fertilizers, which can contribute to deforestation and food supply competition. In contrast, microbial biosurfactants offer a more sustainable and efficient solution, as they can be produced using renewable waste substrates, exhibit superior biodegradability, lower toxicity and perform effectively under a wide range of environmental conditions. This study explores the potential of biosurfactants in textile processing as sustainable substitutes for conventional scouring and bleaching agents. Laboratory and Industrial-scale experiments were conducted to evaluate the application of microbial biosurfactants in textile treatment. Fifteen different biodetergents were formulated, each containing distinct biosurfactants, to assess their effectiveness in fabric processing. The study examined their ability to remove impurities, enhance fabric wettability, and facilitate subsequent dyeing and finishing processes. Comparative analyses were performed against conventional scouring and bleaching treatments, fabric hydrophilicity, and whiteness levels. Each formulation was tested under controlled conditions to determine its efficiency. Preliminary findings demonstrate that biosurfactants effectively eliminate hydrophobic contaminants and enhance fiber wettability at lower temperatures. Cotton and synthetic fabrics treated with biosurfactants exhibited comparable hydrophilicity and whiteness levels to conventional bleaching methods. These results highlight the feasibility of incorporating biosurfactants into textile processing as a greener alternative. The adoption of biosurfactant-based textile treatments could mark a paradigm shift toward more environmentally responsible manufacturing practices. By reducing dependence on synthetic chemicals, lowering energy demands, and minimizing wastewater contamination, this approach aligns with global sustainability goals and regulatory pressures for cleaner production methods. Future research will focus on scaling up biosurfactant production, optimizing formulations for different fabric types, and evaluating long-term performance in industrial applications. Microbial biosurfactants represent a promising biotechnological innovation for sustainable textile processing. Their ability to facilitate effective scouring and bleaching offers a viable alternative to conventional treatments, paving the way for a cleaner textile industry. This study contributes to the growing body of research on green chemistry solutions in textiles and underscores the importance of leveraging microbial biotechnology to drive sustainable industrial transformations.

Keywords: microbial biosurfactants, sustainable textiles, biodetergents, eco-friendly surfactants

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409 Improving The Substrate Adhesion of Thermal Sprayed FeCrAlY Coatings Through Solar Thermal Treatment

Authors: Ionut Claudiu Roata, Catalin Croitoru

Abstract:

To address potential failures in electric contacts caused by high-temperature oxidation, this study introduces a cutting-edge thermal cladding technology capable of withstanding particle erosion and oxidizing environments at medium to high temperatures. A novel method is proposed to fabricate electrical contacts with superior mechanical and electrochemical properties, employing high-flux vertical-axis solar thermal treatment on Ni-Al coatings deposited via thermal spraying onto an aluminum substrate. The research focuses on two primary objectives: optimizing thermal spraying parameters and evaluating the melting temperature and critical operating thresholds of the deposited layers. Advanced characterization tools, such as Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Energy-Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (EDS), were utilized to examine the resulting phases in the cladded materials. Also, mechanical and tribological characterizations were performed on the resulted layers.

Keywords: thermal spraying, wear resistance, hardness, mechanical properties

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408 Transforming the Textile Industry with Artificial Intelligence: Applications, Benefits, and Future Prospects

Authors: Mahsa Jamshidi Nosrat Abad

Abstract:

The textile industry, a vital component of global manufacturing, is experiencing significant transformation through the integration of artificial intelligence (AI). AI technologies are reshaping processes from design and production to quality control and supply chain management. This exploration delves into various AI applications within the textile sector, emphasizing their advantages, challenges, and future prospects. By adopting AI, the textile industry can improve efficiency, cut costs, enhance product quality, and align with growing demands for sustainability. The textile industry plays a crucial role in economic growth and employment but faces numerous challenges, such as increasing competition, fluctuating raw material prices, environmental concerns, and evolving consumer preferences. To address these issues, companies are embracing advanced technologies like artificial intelligence to modernize operations and foster innovation. Artificial intelligence simulates human intelligence in machines, enabling them to perform tasks typically requiring human cognition, such as learning, reasoning, problem-solving, perception, and language understanding. In textiles, AI offers unique opportunities to upgrade traditional processes and create more intelligent systems. Efficient supply chain management is critical for meeting consumer demands and reducing waste. AI enhances this process by improving forecasting accuracy, optimizing inventory levels, and streamlining logistics. Machine learning models analyze historical sales data, seasonal patterns, and external factors like weather and holidays to predict future demand accurately. AI algorithms recommend optimal stock levels, preventing overproduction and understock situations. AI-powered logistics platforms calculate the most cost-effective transportation routes, saving time and fuel. These advancements ensure timely delivery, reduce excess inventory, and lower overall supply chain costs. As consumers grow more environmentally conscious, sustainability has become a key priority for textile companies. AI plays a significant role in promoting eco-friendly practices. AI optimizes water usage, energy consumption, and chemical application during dyeing and finishing processes, reducing environmental impact. It identifies recyclable materials and develops innovative recycling methods, extending the lifecycle of textiles. AI tracks emissions across the supply chain, helping businesses set and achieve carbon reduction targets. By integrating AI into sustainability efforts, the textile industry can contribute positively to global environmental goals. In conclusion, the integration of artificial intelligence in the textile industry is transforming traditional processes, fostering innovation, and addressing critical challenges. From design and quality control to supply chain optimization and sustainability initiatives, AI offers numerous benefits that enhance efficiency, reduce costs, and promote eco-friendly practices. As technology continues to evolve, the textile industry must embrace AI to remain competitive and meet the demands of an ever-changing market.

Keywords: artificial intelligence, textile industry, design automation, quality control, supply chain optimization

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407 The Health Impacts of Hairdressers' Exposure to Chemicals in Hair Restoration Treatments

Authors: Golnar Kavand

Abstract:

Hair restoration treatments have become increasingly popular among women, leading to a rise in demand for skilled hairdressers who specialize in these services. However, the chemicals used in these treatments can pose significant health risks to hairdressers due to prolonged exposure. This discussion explores the potential health impacts associated with the use of chemical agents in hair restoration treatments and highlights the importance of safety measures to protect hairdressers' well-being. Hair restoration treatments, such as keratin smoothing, permanent waving, and coloring, involve the use of various chemical agents designed to alter the structure and appearance of hair. While these treatments are effective in achieving desired results, they often expose hairdressers to harmful substances that can affect their respiratory, dermatological, and overall health. Hairdressers who spend long hours working in salons are particularly vulnerable to the adverse effects of these chemicals due to repeated and prolonged exposure. Several chemicals are commonly used in hair restoration treatments, each with its own set of potential health hazards. Formaldehyde, found in some keratin treatments, is a known carcinogen that can cause respiratory irritation, allergic reactions, and long-term health issues when inhaled. Ammonia, used in hair dyes and permanents, can irritate the eyes, nose, throat, and lungs, leading to coughing, wheezing, and headaches. Parabens, present in many cosmetic products, are linked to hormonal disruptions and may contribute to reproductive health problems. Sodium hydroxide, commonly found in relaxers, is highly caustic and can cause skin burns, eye damage, and respiratory issues if inhaled. Phthalates, used as plasticizers in hair products, have been associated with endocrine disruption and developmental issues. Permethrin, sometimes used in anti-dandruff treatments, can cause skin irritation and neurological symptoms with prolonged exposure. The chronic exposure of hairdressers to these chemicals can lead to a range of health issues. Inhalation of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) from hair products can result in asthma, bronchitis, and other respiratory conditions. Hairdressers often work in poorly ventilated spaces, exacerbating these risks. Direct contact with chemicals can cause dermatitis, eczema, and other skin conditions. Fumes from certain chemicals can irritate the eyes, leading to redness, itching, and discomfort. Some chemicals, such as parabens and phthalates, may interfere with hormonal balance, potentially affecting fertility and pregnancy outcomes. Long-term exposure to carcinogenic substances like formaldehyde increases the risk of developing cancer, particularly nasal and sinus cancers. Certain chemicals, including those containing heavy metals, can affect cognitive function and lead to fatigue, headaches, and memory problems. Hairdressers are exposed to harmful chemicals through multiple pathways, including inhalation, dermal contact, and ingestion. Poor ventilation, lack of personal protective equipment (PPE), and inadequate training further amplify these risks.

Keywords: hairdressers, chemical exposure, health risks, hair restoration treatments, occupational safety

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406 Study of Adhesion of Nanofiber Laminated Textiles and Method for Strengthening Their Interphase Bonds

Authors: Jaymin Vrajlal Sanchaniya, Ilze Liepiņlauska, Andris Skromulis, Inga Lasenko

Abstract:

Textiles that use electrospun nanofibre membranes (ENMs) in laminated configurations recently achieved substantial progress in three application areas, including robotic skins, electronic sensors, and medical textiles. The research evaluates nanofibre-laminated textile bonding strength by using multiple experimental methods. The study presents the development of three different textile composites in which polyacrylonitrile (PAN) polymer was treated with electrospinning on fabric through various adhesive techniques. The testing evaluates the different nanofibre-fabric bonding methods using T-peel tests to determine their effectiveness. The direct electrospinning methods used to produce laminated textiles led to negligible or no attachment between fabric materials and ENMs. The electrospinning process led to initial ENM layer adhesion when an adhesion agent was incorporated during the process. The tested composite achieved a 60% higher strength after using adhesive pressure to create it. Research findings show that applying an adhesive agent with pressure between textile materials and ENMs produces optimal interfacial adhesion during the fabrication of laminated textile composites.

Keywords: laminated composites, textiles, nanofibres, T-peel test

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405 Study on the Physical Properties of the Melange Yarn

Authors: Md. Rofiul Islam Rofi

Abstract:

Mélange yarn, produced by blending fibers of different colors before spinning, is widely used in the textile industry for its unique aesthetic and functional advantages. This study investigates the physical properties of mélange yarn, focusing on tensile strength, elongation, evenness, hairiness, and abrasion resistance. The influence of different spinning techniques, including ring and compact spinning, on these properties is thoroughly examined. Additionally, the impact of fiber composition, particularly cotton-polyester and wool-acrylic blends, on yarn performance is analyzed. Through standardized testing methods, including universal tensile testing, Uster evenness measurement, and Martindale abrasion testing, the mechanical and surface characteristics of mélange yarn are assessed. The findings indicate that compact-spun mélange yarn exhibits superior strength, lower hairiness, and better evenness compared to ring-spun mélange yarn. Moreover, the study highlights the role of synthetic fibers in enhancing abrasion resistance, making mélange yarn more durable for high-performance applications. These insights provide valuable guidance for optimizing mélange yarn production, ensuring better quality and performance in various textile applications. Future research should explore sustainable fiber alternatives and advanced spinning modifications to further enhance mélange yarn properties.

Keywords: mélange yarn, fiber blending, ring spinning, compact spinning, tensile strength, elongation, yarn evenness, hairiness, abrasion resistance, friction coefficient, textile durability

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404 Thermal And Moisture Management in the Micro-Climate of Socks for Diabetic Foot Care: The Role of Mohair-Wool Content

Authors: Adine Gericke, Mohanapriya Venkataraman

Abstract:

This study investigated the performance of mohair and wool fibers in socks for diabetics, where meticulous design to ensure a stable microclimate is crucial for maintaining optimal foot health. The thermal and moisture management properties of fabrics and socks were evaluated on the Alambeta and Thermal Foot Manikin and in-wear trials with thermo-chromic dataloggers. An in-vitro method that simulates in-use conditions was developed to gain a more comprehensive understanding of the results. Mohair-wool socks outperformed polyester, maintaining lower humidity and preventing microclimate dryness due to their enhanced moisture absorption. Fabric structure, particularly thickness, significantly influenced thermal resistance. The findings suggest that mohair-wool is an excellent choice for diabetic socks, offering both moisture management and customizable thermal properties. The study also demonstrates the effectiveness of various test methods in predicting the in-use performance of socks, going beyond traditional laboratory testing.

Keywords: thermo-physiological comfort, micro-climate, thermal resistance, moisture management, diabetic foot care

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403 Empowering Independence: 3D Embossing Paper Tags for Visually Impaired Individuals

Authors: Sankar Sathiyamoorthi

Abstract:

This research presents a solution for garment identification for visually impaired individuals using 3D embossed paper tags. The tags combine raised tactile elements with Braille or large print text, enabling users to identify garments through touch. A user-centred approach was employed to design and evaluate the tags. Results show that the tags significantly improve garment identification accuracy and user independence. This paper 3D emboss has the potential to enhance the quality of life for visually impaired individuals. This garment tag design enables users to effortlessly identify essential details, including garment style, color, size, and MRP. With this clear and concise visual presentation, users can confidently make independent purchasing decisions, ensuring a seamless and empowered shopping experience

Keywords: accessible garment identification, tactile labeling solutions, 3D embossing technology for accessibility, inclusive design for visually impaired individuals, accessible textile innovations, 3D embossing, tactile tags, visually impaired, accessibility, inclusive design

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402 Fabrication of F-CNT/ PEDOT: PSS Composite Coated Flexible Counter Electrode for DSSCs

Authors: Ali bux, Aqsa Memon, iftikhar Ali Sahito, Anam Ali Memon

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Flexible dye sensitized solar cells have emerged as the promising technology for wearable electronics and energy storage due to their flexibility, lightweight and facile fabrication. However, the expensive platinum (Pt) has limited the practical applications and roll to roll processing of dye sensitized solar cells (DSSCs). Printable carbon-based photovoltaics have attracted great attention due to their potential for large-scale applications for powering wearable electronic devices. It is challenging to incorporate various characteristics together such as mechanical stability, solution printability, conductivity, electrocatalytic activity, and heat-generating properties in the flexible fabric-based electrode system. Thus this research study is focused on the design and synthesis of a flexible and mechanically stable counter electrode based on printable carbon composite using functionalized multi walled carbon nanotubes and Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene) polystyrene sulfonate (PEDOT:PSS) conducting polymer. The composite exhibits superior electrocatalytic activity, excellent conductivity, high surface area and good durability thus surpassing the conventional Pt electrodes. The acid functionalized multiwalled carbon nanotubes (F-CNT) exhibited larger surface area thus promoting the greater absorption of electrolyte. Different compositions of carbon composites were synthesized by varying the concentration of conducting polymer. The uniform deposition of carbon composite onto cotton fabrics using an optimized doctor blade technique resulted in crack free and durable coating. Our proposed material printed on woven cotton fabric exhibited remarkable conductivity of 2–5 Ω and lower charge transfer resistance RCT = 2.69 Ω. These flexible and conductive electrodes are durable and can withstand repetitive bending and flexing cycles. The proposed research paves the way for solution printable high-conductivity, lightness, and flexibility high-electrocatalytic activity performance on woven fabric for wearable electronics.

Keywords: MWCNTS, DSSCs, wearable electronics, carbon composite, PEDOT:PSS

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401 Creating a Taxonomy of Conflicts Arising Towards Transiting to Circular Economy Within Fashion Industry

Authors: Nasira Ahsan

Abstract:

The transition of the global fashion industry to a Circular Economy (CE) represents a multifaceted and intricate process shaped by the interconnected social, cultural, environmental, and economic factors that underpin the sector. While existing literature frequently emphasizes technological innovations and the implementation of circular business models as essential components of CE transitions, there remains a significant gap in understanding the critical role that stakeholder collaboration plays within interdisciplinary frameworks. This study seeks to address this gap by examining the conflicts that emerge among key stakeholders. These (often overlooked) conflicts have the potential to reshape the dynamics of the sustainability journey, influencing how stakeholders engage and work together. Based on this argument, the study explores how these conflicts impact the effectiveness and overall success of CE initiatives within the fashion industry. By utilizing stakeholder mapping and system dynamics, the research creates a comprehensive taxonomy of conflicts. It identifies crucial inflection points where these conflicts either accelerate or hinder the trajectory of CE initiatives. The study adopts a mixed-methods approach, combining an extensive literature review with a case study methodology. The case study is derived from a living lab environment, which has been specifically designed to facilitate collaboration among various stakeholders involved in testing and experimenting with CE initiatives, particularly in the context of clothing reuse and secondhand use. The research employs in-depth interviews with stakeholders participating in the living lab, gathering qualitative data that provides valuable insights into the dynamics and challenges inherent in these collaborative efforts. A detailed analysis of the underlying project dynamics, supported by the interview data, enabled the mapping of stakeholders and the development of a taxonomy of these conflicts. Through the integration of system dynamics and stakeholder mapping, the study concludes with the examination of the complex relationships between stakeholders and their interactions within collaborative settings and creates a taxonomy of conflicts. Lastly, the findings emphasize that effectively navigating and resolving stakeholder conflicts is critical for optimizing the pace, direction, and scalability of CE initiatives for long-term outcomes within the fashion sector.

Keywords: circular economy, taxonomy of conflicts, transition, fashion industry, co-innovation

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400 Comprehensive Review of Wound Dressings for Ulcers: Challenges and Opportunities in Advance Healing Technologies

Authors: Anjali Sharma, Vinay Kumar Midha

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In addition to outlining the substantial potential for developing wound care technologies and enhancing the prognosis of patients with chronic ulcers, this review paper attempts to examine the complex issues surrounding bioactive wound dressings. This review examines the state of wound dressings today, highlighting the potential and problems brought about by cutting-edge healing technology. Because of issues like infection, tissue viability, and patient-specific concerns, treating ulcers remains a challenging clinical problem, even with major breakthroughs in materials and procedures. The mechanisms of action, effectiveness, and patient outcomes of several dressing types—such as hydrocolloids, hydrogels, foams, and biological dressings—are evaluated in this review. It also highlights the need for creative solutions that make use of technologies like nanotechnology, smart materials, and biotechnology by pointing out research and development gaps. This review attempts to offer insights that help direct future developments in wound dressing technology, ultimately enhancing healing results and the quality of life for impacted patients by addressing the complex problems in ulcer treatment and investigating new prospects.

Keywords: ulcer, dressings, nanotechnology, bioengineering

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399 Introducing Henna As a Natural Colorant to Dye Nylon With Metal Chelation and Assessing the Dyeing Performance

Authors: Bibi Asma, Rokonozzaman Reza, Majharul Islam, Muhammad Foyez Ahmed, Mohammad Tayub

Abstract:

Since the beginning of human civilization, natural dyes have been adored in textile coloration due to their non-hazardous nature compared to commercial dyes, recyclability, safety and a plethora of congenial attributes. Henna is an herb leaf that is used to color hands in Muslim fes-tivals, hence it is a part of tradition. In this study, Henna (Lawsoniainermis L.) has been used to dye nylon fabric with and without mordants. In the case of the mordanting process, metal chela-tion of Ferrous Sulphate (FeSO₄) and Copper Sulphate (CuSO₄) was used. The dyeing behavior of natural dye Henna with or without mordant was examined by analysis of colorimetric properties of color, depth of shade measurement and colorfastness properties of dyed fabric sample was also assessed as well. The study shows dye absorption of fiber has considerably increased by using mordants which in return exhibits a greater depth of shade, also the dyed samples demonstrated excellent fastness ratings in wash fastness, rubbing fastness, and Perspiration fastness with little to no change in color obtained.

Keywords: sustainable dyeing, henna, mordanting, metal chelation

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398 Nanotextiles to Marine Collagen: Advancing Skin Care Through Textile Technology

Authors: Anushka Saxena, Rakhi Wahee Pratap

Abstract:

Skincare textiles, an emerging field at the crossroads of textile technology and wellness, offer groundbreaking innovations that aim to enhance health and well-being through everyday wear. This research paper explores the diverse spectrum of skin-friendly textiles, with a focus on key categories such as cosmetotextiles, skincare finishes, marine collagen fabrics, and nanotextiles. These developments reflect a shift towards a more holistic approach to clothing, where garments not only serve as fashion or protection but also contribute actively to personal care and wellness. Cosmetotextiles represent a transformative fusion of beauty and textile industries, where fabrics are impregnated with active cosmetic ingredients that provide skincare benefits as they are worn. By incorporating substances such as vitamins, moisturizers, essential oils, and antioxidants, these textiles continuously release beneficial ingredients to the skin throughout the day. The result is improved skin hydration, enhanced smoothness, and targeted therapeutic effects that redefine how clothing can interact with the body. Marine collagen fabrics introduce a novel approach to skincare, harnessing collagen derived from marine life to improve skin elasticity, hydration, and overall texture. With their natural bioactive compounds, these textiles can help stimulate skin repair and rejuvenation, positioning them as a promising tool in both beauty and medical applications. Marine collagen offers the dual benefit of contributing to sustainable textiles while delivering scientifically-backed skincare benefits. Nanotextiles, on the other hand, leverage the advancements in nanotechnology by integrating nanoparticles into fabric structures. These textiles exhibit multifunctional properties, such as antimicrobial action, UV protection, and wound-healing capabilities, making them highly suitable for medical textiles. Nanotextiles provide an avenue for creating clothing that not only protects the skin from environmental aggressors but also aids in recovery, regeneration, and long-term health maintenance. This paper provides an in-depth overview of healing textiles, examining their current advancements, practical applications, and the challenges faced in their development. Furthermore, it explores the future prospects of this innovative field, particularly its potential in bridging the gap between cutting-edge technology and traditional textile practices. As consumer demand for multifunctional and health-promoting textiles grows, healing textiles present a promising solution for improving quality of life through fabric innovation.

Keywords: skincare textiles, nanotechnology, cosmetotextiles, nanotextiles, marine collagen textiles and health

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397 Application of Self-Pleating Knitted Structures in Gym Wear Back Zoning Design

Authors: Tsai-chun Huang, Xinyan Liu

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This paper presents an innovative targeted zoning design method for the back of gym wear, based on the visual mapping method for superficial skin deformation of back muscles discussed in Back Skin Deformation during Anaerobic Exercises for Ergonomics Application. The method involves developing a knitted self-pleating structure for areas of greater skin deformation, designed to match the range of superficial skin deformation of the back muscles during large-scale movements. Current research on the functional zoning design of gym wear primarily concentrates on the human sweat map, fat distribution map, and pressure distribution map, with a particular emphasis on the lower body. However, there remains a gap in research on targeted zoning design specifically addressing the superficial skin deformation on the back. Based on the visual muscle deformation images of three back resistance training movements discussed previously, the two images with the greatest overall color differences for each muscle visualization, indicating the highest degree of skin deformation, were overlaid in Photoshop to analyze the color depth distribution. The results show that the darkest areas are concentrated on the upper edge of the trapezius muscle and the upper edge of the latissimus dorsi muscle, suggesting that these regions experience the most significant superficial skin deformation during exercises. To ensure comfort and flexibility during exercise, the entire area of these two regions is preserved to prevent seams from intersecting the regions of greatest skin deformation, thereby reducing skin friction. The heat map indicates that the skin deformation range at the upper edge of the trapezius muscle is from -25% to 15%, while the upper edge of the latissimus dorsi muscle shows a deformation range of -25% to 25%. Based on these findings, the fabric structure and stretch range of the knitted self-pleating structure were developed and adjusted accordingly. According to the tensile test, the developed weft-knitted self-pleating structure has a stretch rate of -46.6% to 50%, which covers the stretch range of the main muscle groups in the back, indicating that the structure can be used to wrap the muscles in this area. For the remaining areas with skin deformation ranging from -15% to 15%, elastic knitted fabrics with spandex content were utilized to accommodate this range. Based on the skin deformation data, a partitioned gym vest prototype was designed and made. The significance of this study lies in providing an innovative methodology for gym wear design, particularly for gym wear involving a large range of motion and significant skin deformation. A distinctively developed knitted self-pleating structure is utilized in areas of extensive deformation, while a knitted fabric containing spandex is employed in areas with less deformation. This zoning design method enhances adaptability to the dynamic changes of human movement, allowing designers to more precisely select and adjust materials and structures. This approach not only improves athletes’ comfort and flexibility but also effectively reduces friction and binding of fabric on the skin during exercise, providing valuable insights for designers to create more reasonable and effective back area solutions for gym wear.

Keywords: zoning design, skin deformation, self-pleating structures, gym wear design, back muscle

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396 Experimental Investigation of Sisal Fiber Reinforced Recycled Low-Density Polyethylene Composite Filled with Egg Shell Powder for Wall Tile Application

Authors: Natnan Adelahu Dagne

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This paper focuses on an experimental investigation into the development of wall tiles made of a composite material consisting of egg shell powder (ESP), waste recycled low-density polyethylene (LDPE), and sisal fiber. Although waste plastic has been a popular material for packaging in recent years, its nonbiodegradability is generating contamination in the environment. Waste LDPE is a common material that is used extensively and discarded egg shell powder contributes to environmental contamination. By recycling them into usable items and reinforcing them with natural textile fibers to create composite materials, these waste plastics and egg shell powder can be eliminated from the environment. Natural fiber-based composites are ecofriendly, with better properties and low cost. The sisal fibers were treated with 6% NaOH in 24 hr., to improve the fiber-matrix interaction. The composites were manufactured by the melt-mixing method followed by compression molding. The effects of mixing time, egg shell powder content and fiber length and on the composite properties were investigated using tensile, flexural, impact, compressive, flame retardant and water absorption tests. The investigation showed that the optimum mixing time, ESP and fiber length for the optimal properties of the composite were achieved at 15.766 min, 1.668% and 10.096 mm respectively. The maximum optimized tensile strength of 57.572 Mpa, flexural strength of 59.262 Mpa, impact strength of 24.200 Mpa, compressive strength 120.307 Mpa, flame retardant of LOI values of 28.692 % of were obtained. Water absorption of the tiles increased with increase in the fiber length. Overall, the experimental findings demonstrate the possibility of using sisal reinforced LDPE filled with ESP composite as a sustainable substitute material to create wall tiles that are better for the environment, within low cost and have enhanced mechanical, physical, and chemical properties of composite.

Keywords: composite, sisal, ESP, LDPE

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395 Climate Crises: Consumers and Designers Attitude Towards Sustainability of Fast Fashion Products in Nigeria

Authors: Oluwambe Akinmoye

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The textile industry in Nigeria has grown rapidly, fueled by rising demand for fast fashion driven by celebrity culture, fashion TV, and the Internet. However, this growth has come at a cost, with the industry contributing to environmental degradation, waste management crises, economic imbalances, and social injustices. This paper examines the attitudes of consumers and designers toward sustainability in the Nigerian textile and fast fashion industry. The study adopts a mixed-methods research design. Both qualitative and quantitative data were drawn from fast fashion consumers and designers. The sample of consumers and designers was determined using random and purposive sampling techniques. Data were elicited from the consumers and designers using questionnaires and focus group discussions, respectively, coupled with comprehensive literature reviews. The collected data were analyzed using descriptive statistics, content, and thematic analyses. Findings indicate that the strata of Nigerian society pay little attention to fast fashion sustainability. Conversely, designers have started to innovate and adopt sustainable practices by sourcing eco-friendly materials, yet they face significant barriers. The study emphasizes the need for a shift in the industry's approach to sustainability, with a greater concern on circular economy principles, sustainable materials, and fair labour practices.

Keywords: Fast fashion, textiles, sustainability, Climate crises, consumers, designers

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394 Availability and Representation of Plus-Size Female Fashion in Florianópolis: A Comparative Study of Physical and Online Stores

Authors: Gisele Ghanem Cardoso, Sandra Rech

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Despite recent advancements, the plus-size market still faces significant gaps, as individuals with larger bodies struggle to find clothing that fits well and meets their needs. Addressing this issue, this research aims to investigate the availability of fashion products for plus-size women in both physical and online stores in Florianópolis, as well as the quantity of products available in each size. The study employs content analysis based on Bardin's framework, examining data on store locations, size ranges, and target audiences of various brands alongside observations of visual elements such as hanger sizes and the branding of specialized labels. The findings reveal a concentration of plus-size stores in peripheral areas and a limited selection of diverse, high-quality products, contrasting sharply with the access standard-sized bodies have to more prestigious fashion hubs. These results highlight how the current market structure perpetuates social exclusion, underscoring the urgent need for inclusive policies and an expanded plus-size market to promote greater equity and representation in fashion consumption.

Keywords: plus size fashion, representation, consumption, Florianópolis, product availability, social exclusion

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393 Enhancing ERP Implementation Processes in South African Retail SMEs: A Study on Operational Efficiency and Customer-Centric Approaches

Authors: Tshepo Mabotja

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Purpose: The purpose of this study is to identify and analyse the factors influencing ERP implementation in South African SMEs in the textile & apparel retail sector, with the goal of providing insights that improve decision-making, enhance operational efficiency, and meet customer expectations. Design/Methodology/Approach: A quantitative research methodology was employed, utilising a probability (random) sampling technique to ensure equal opportunity for sample selection. The researcher conducted an extensive review of current literature to identify knowledge gaps and applied data analysis methods, including descriptive statistics, reliability tests, exploratory factor analysis, and normality testing. Findings/Results: The study revealed that South African SMEs in the textile & apparel retail industry must evaluate critical factors before implementing an ERP model. These factors include assessing client requirements, examining the experiences of existing ERP system users, understanding system maintenance needs, and forecasting expected performance outcomes. Practical Implications: The findings provide actionable recommendations for textile and apparel retail SMEs aiming to adopt ERP systems. By focusing on the identified critical factors, businesses can enhance their ERP adoption processes, reduce operational inefficiencies, and better align with customer and sustainability demands. Originality/Value: This study contributes to the limited body of knowledge on ERP implementation challenges in South African textile and apparel retail SMEs. It provides a unique perspective on how strategic ERP adoption can drive operational improvements and support sustainable development practices within the industry.

Keywords: retail SMEs, enterprise resource planning, operational efficiency, customer centricity

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392 The Adoption of Sustainable Textiles & Smart Apparel Technology for the South African Healthcare Sector

Authors: Winiswa Mavutha

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The adoption of sustainable textiles and smart apparel technology is crucial for the South African healthcare sector. It’s all about finding innovative solutions to track patient health and improve overall healthcare delivery. This research focuses on how sustainable textile fibers can be integrated with smart apparel technologies by utilizing embedded sensors and some serious data analytics—to enable real-time monitoring of patients. Smart apparel technology conducts constant monitoring of patients’ heart rate, temperature, and blood pressure, including delivering medication electronically, which enhances patient care and reduces hospital readmissions. Currently, the South African healthcare system has its own set of challenges, such as limited resources and a heavy disease burden. Apparel and textile manufacturers in South Africa can address these challenges while promoting environmental sustainability through waste reduction and decreased reliance on harmful chemicals that are typically utilized in traditional textile manufacturing. The study will emphasize the importance of sustainable practices in the textile supply chain. Additionally, this study will examine the importance of collaborative initiatives among stakeholders—such as government entities healthcare providers, including textile and apparel manufacturers, which promotes an environment that fosters innovation in sustainable smart textiles and apparel technology. If South Africa taps into its local resources and skills, it could be a pioneer in the global South for creating eco-friendly healthcare solutions. This aligns perfectly with global sustainability trends and sustainable development goals. The study will use a mixed-method approach by conducting surveys, focus group interviews, and case studies with healthcare professionals, patients, as well as textile and apparel manufacturers. The utilization of sustainable smart textiles doesn’t only enhance patient care through better monitoring, but it also supports a circular economy with biodegradable fibers and minimal textile waste. There’s a growing acknowledgment in the global healthcare sector about the benefits of smart textiles for personalized medicine, and South Africa has the chance to use this advancement to enhance its healthcare services while also addressing some persistent environmental challenges.

Keywords: smart apparel technologies, sustainable textiles, south African healthcare innovation, technology acceptance model

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391 Enhancing the Dyeability and Performance of Recycled Polyethylene Terephthalate with Hyperbranched Polyester

Authors: Haroon Abdelrahman Mohamed Saeed, Hongjun Yang

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This study aims to examine the impact of hyperbranched polyester (AA-Ph) on the dyeability and color fastness of recycled poly (ethylene terephthalate) (RPET) fabric. AA-Ph was synthesized through single-step melt polycondensation of adipic acid (AA) and phloroglucinol (Ph) and then incorporated into RPET before spinning. The addition of AA-Ph significantly improves the dye uptake of recycled PET when dyed with disperse dye blue 56 due to the introduction of polar groups and aromatic rings. The blends RPET-3 and RPET-5 show strong abrasion resistance, dyeability, and washing fastness. Furthermore, these blends exhibit high moisture absorbance owing to the polar groups and aromatic structures, as demonstrated by exhaustion tests, which enhance perspiration absorption for added comfort in apparel. Overall, RPET-3 and RPET-5 blends are well-suited for various textile applications, especially in garment manufacturing.

Keywords: recycled poly (ethylene terephthalate), hyperbranched polyester, dyeability, dye blue

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390 Optimization of Bio-Based Lightweight Mortars Containing Wood Waste

Authors: Valeria Corinaldesi, Nicola Generosi, Daniele Berdini

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In this study, wood waste from processing by-products was used by replacing natural sand for producing bio-based lightweight mortars. Manufacturers of wood products and furniture usually generate sawdust and pieces of side-cuts. These are produced by cutting, drilling, and milling operations as well. Three different percentages of substitution of quartz sand were tried: 2.5%, 5%, and 10% by volume. Wood by-products were pre-soaked in calcium hydroxide aqueous solution in order to obtain wood mineralization to avoid undesirable effects on the bio-based building materials. Bio-based mortars were characterized by means of compression and bending tests, free drying shrinkage tests, resistance to water vapour permeability, water capillary absorption, and, finally, thermal conductivity measurements. Results obtained showed that a maximum dosage of 5% wood by-products should be used in order to avoid an excessive loss of bio-based mortar mechanical strength. On the other hand, by adding the proper dosage of water-reducing admixture, adequate mechanical performance can be achieved even with 10% wood waste addition.

Keywords: bio-based mortar, energy efficiency, lightweight mortar, thermal insulation, wood waste

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389 Investigation of Antimicrobial Activity of Dielectric Barrier Discharge Oxygen Plasma Combined with ZnO NPs-Treated Cotton Fabric Coated with Natural Green Tea Leaf Extracts

Authors: Fatma A. Mohamed, Hend M. Ahmed

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This research explores the antimicrobial effects of dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) oxygen plasma treatment combined with ZnO NPs on the cotton fabric, focusing on various treatment durations (5, 10, 15, 20, and 30 minutes) and discharge powers (15.5–17.35 watts) at flow rate 0.5 l/min. After treatment with oxygen plasma and ZnO NPs, the fabric was printed with green tea (Camellia sinensis) at five different concentrations. The study evaluated the treatment's effectiveness by analyzing surface wettability, specifically through wet-out time and hydrophilicity, as well as measuring contact angles. To investigate the chemical changes on the fabric's surface, attenuated total reflectance–Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy was employed to identify the functional groups formed as a result of the plasma treatment. This comprehensive approach aims to understand how DBD oxygen plasma treatment and ZnO nanoparticles change cotton fabric properties and enhance its antimicrobial potential, paving the way for innovative applications in textiles. In addition to the chemical analysis, the surface morphology of the O₂ plasma/ZnO NPs-treated cotton fabric was examined using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). FTIR analysis revealed an increase in polar functional groups (-COOH, -OH, and -C≡O) on the fabric's surface, contributing to enhanced hydrophilicity and functionality. The antimicrobial properties were evaluated using qualitative and quantitative methods, including agar plate assays and modified Hoenstein tests against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. The results indicated a significant improvement in antimicrobial effectiveness for the cotton fabric treated with plasma and coated with natural extracts, maintaining this efficacy even after four washing cycles. This research demonstrates that utilizing oxygen DBD plasma/ZnO NPs treatment, combined with the absorption of tea and tulsi leaf extracts, presents a promising strategy for developing natural antimicrobial textiles. This approach is particularly relevant given the increasing medical and healthcare demands for effective antimicrobial materials. Overall, the method not only enhances the absorption of plant extracts but also significantly boosts antimicrobial efficacy, offering valuable insights for future textile applications.

Keywords: cotton, ZnO NPs, green tea leaf, antimicrobial avtivity, DBD oxygen plasma

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388 Moisture Management of Knitted Fabric under Simulated Human Sweating

Authors: Ranjna Kumari, Gourav Mishra, R. S. Rengasamy, Rabisankar Chattopadhyay

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The performance of active sportswear is governed by its ability to transport liquid moisture. As the yarns and fibres are building blocks of fabric, the liquid transfer depends on the fibres. The human skin generates sweats in the form of microdroplets through sweating glands. In this study, movement of liquid water in the yarn and fabrics dosed in the form of microdroplets is observed. Multiple water droplets representing accumulated sweat from continuous sweating through sweat glands are allowed to wick through the yarns made up of coarser and finer fibres and knitted fabrics constituting these yarns and observed to understand the role of fibre diameter on wicking dynamics. Wicking results from the conventional wicking test are compared with microfluidic wicking. It is found that the initial wicking speed in coarser-fibres yarn is faster in comparison to finer-fibres yarn, but the final wicking height is longer in finer fibre yarn. Overall liquid spreading length found to be similar for both the yarns. Yarn to yarn liquid transfer at crossover junctions is faster with finer-fibre yarn compared to coarser-fibre yarn. Same trends are found in knitted fabrics constructed with these yarns having finer and coarser fibres. Initial wicking rate or spreading is faster in fabric having finer fibres compared to that having coarser fibres.

Keywords: droplet, reservoir, single jersey, wicking, yarn

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387 Utilization of Chrysanthemum Flowers in Textile Dyeing: Chemical and Phenolic Analysis of Dyes and Fabrics

Authors: Muhammad Ahmad

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In this research, Chrysanthemum (morifolium) flowers are used as a natural dye to reduce synthetic dyes and take a step toward sustainability in the fashion industry. The aqueous extraction method is utilized for natural dye extraction and then applied to silk and cotton fabric samples. The color of the dye extracted from dried chrysanthemum flowers is originally a shade of rich green, but after being washed with detergent, it turns to a shade of yellow. Traditional salt and vinegar are used as a natural mordant to fix the dye color. This study also includes a phenolic and chemical analysis of the natural dye (Chrysanthemum flowers) and the textiles (cotton and silk). Compared to cotton fabric, silk fabric has far superior chemical qualities to use in natural dyeing. The results of this study show that the Chrysanthemum flower offers a variety of colors when treated with detergent, without detergent, and with mordants. Chrysanthemum flowers have long been used in other fields, such as medicine; therefore, it is time to start using them in the fashion industry as a natural dye to lessen the harm that synthetic dyes cause.

Keywords: natural dyes, Chrysanthemum flower, sustainability, textile fabrics, chemical and phenolic analysis

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