Search results for: luminescent textile
Commenced in January 2007
Frequency: Monthly
Edition: International
Paper Count: 538

Search results for: luminescent textile

268 Application of Modified Vermiculite for Cationic Textile Dyestuffs Removal: Sorption and Regeneration Studies

Authors: W. Stawiński, A. Wegrzyn, O. M. Freitas, S. A. Figueiredo

Abstract:

Water is a life supporting resource, crucial for humanity and essential for natural ecosystems, which have been endangered by developing industry and increasing human population. Dyes are common in effluents discharged by various industries such as paper, plastics, food, cosmetics, and textile. They produce toxic effects on animals and disturb natural biological processes in receiving waters. Having complex molecular structure and resistance to biological decomposition they are problematic and difficult to be treated by conventional methods. In the search of efficient and sustainable method, sorption has been getting more interest in application to wastewaters treatment. Clays are minerals that have a layer structure based on phyllosilicate sheets that may carry a charge, which is balanced by ions located between the sheets. These charge-balancing ions can be exchanged resulting in very good ion-exchange properties of the material. Modifications of clays enhance their properties, producing a good and inexpensive sorbent for the removal of pollutants from wastewaters. The presented work proves that the treatment of a clay, vermiculite, with nitric acid followed by washing in citric acid strongly increases the sorption of two cationic dyes, methylene blue (C.I. 52015) and astrazon red (C.I. 110825). Desorption studies showed that the best eluent for regeneration is a solution of NaCl in ethanol. Cycles of sorption and desorption in column system showed no significant deterioration of sorption capacity and proved that the material shows a very good performance as sorbent, which can be recycled and reused. The results obtained open new possibilities of further modifications on vermiculite and modifications of other materials in order to get very efficient sorbents useful for wastewater treatment.

Keywords: cationic dyestuffs, sorption and regeneration, vermiculite, wastewater treatment

Procedia PDF Downloads 226
267 White Light Emitting Carbon Dots- Surface Modification of Carbon Dots Using Auxochromes

Authors: Manasa Perikala, Asha Bhardwaj

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Fluorescent carbon dots (CDs), a young member of Carbon nanomaterial family, has gained a lot of research attention across the globe due to its highly luminescent emission properties, non-toxic behavior, stable emission properties, and zero re-absorption lose. These dots have the potential to replace the use of traditional semiconductor quantum dots in light-emitting devices (LED’s, fiber lasers) and other photonic devices (temperature sensor, UV detector). However, One major drawback of Carbon dots is that, till date, the actual mechanism of photoluminescence (PL) in carbon dots is still an open topic of discussion among various researchers across the globe. PL mechanism of CDs based on wide particle size distribution, the effect of surface groups, hybridization in carbon, and charge transfer mechanisms have been proposed. Although these mechanisms explain PL of CDs to an extent, no universally accepted mechanism to explain complete PL behavior of these dots is put forth. In our work, we report parameters affecting the size and surface of CDs, such as time of the reaction, synthesis temperature and concentration of precursors and their effects on the optical properties of the carbon dots. The effect of auxochromes on the emission properties and re-modification of carbon surface using an external surface functionalizing agent is discussed in detail. All the explanations have been supported by UV-Visible absorption, emission spectroscopies, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and Transmission electron microscopy and X-Ray diffraction techniques. Once the origin of PL in CDs is understood, parameters affecting PL centers can be modified to tailor the optical properties of these dots, which can enhance their applications in the fabrication of LED’s and other photonic devices out of these carbon dots.

Keywords: carbon dots, photoluminescence, size effects on emission in CDs, surface modification of carbon dots

Procedia PDF Downloads 104
266 Designing Function Knitted and Woven Upholstery Textile With SCOPY Film

Authors: Manar Y. Abd El-Aziz, Alyaa E. Morgham, Amira A. El-Fallal, Heba Tolla E. Abo El Naga

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Different textile materials are usually used in upholstery. However, upholstery parts may become unhealthy when dust accrues and bacteria raise on the surface, which negatively affects the user's health. Also, leather and artificial leather were used in upholstery but, leather has a high cost and artificial leather has a potential chemical risk for users. Researchers have advanced vegie leather made from bacterial cellulose a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY). SCOBY remains a gelatinous, cellulose biofilm discovered floating at the air-liquid interface of the container. But this leather still needs some enhancement for its mechanical properties. This study aimed to prepare SCOBY, produce bamboo rib knitted fabrics with two different stitch densities, and cotton woven fabric then laminate these fabrics with the prepared SCOBY film to enhance the mechanical properties of the SCOBY leather at the same time; add anti-microbial function to the prepared fabrics. Laboratory tests were conducted on the produced samples, including tests for function properties; anti-microbial, thermal conductivity and light transparency. Physical properties; thickness and mass per unit. Mechanical properties; elongation, tensile strength, young modulus, and peel force. The results showed that the type of the fabric affected significantly SCOBY properties. According to the test results, the bamboo knitted fabric with higher stitch density laminated with SCOBY was chosen for its tensile strength and elongation as the upholstery of a bed model with antimicrobial properties and comfortability in the headrest design. Also, the single layer of SCOBY was chosen regarding light transparency and lower thermal conductivity for the creation of a lighting unit built into the bed headboard.

Keywords: anti-microbial, bamboo, rib, SCOPY, upholstery

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265 Modified Silicates as Dissolved Oxygen Sensors in Water: Structural and Optical Properties

Authors: Andile Mkhohlakali, Tien-Chien Jen, James Tshilongo, Happy Mabowa

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Among different parameters, oxygen is one of the most important analytes of interest, dissolved oxygen (DO) concentration is very crucial and significant for various areas of physical, chemical, and environmental monitoring. Herein we report oxygen-sensitive luminophores -based lanthanum(III) trifluoromethanesulfonate), [La]³⁺ was encapsulated into SiO₂-based xerogel matrix. The nanosensor is composed of organically modified silica nanoparticles, doped with the luminescent oxygen–sensitive lanthanum(III) trifluoromethanesulfonate complex. The precursor materials used for sensing film were triethyl ethoxy silane (TEOS) and (3-Mercaptopropyltriethoxysilane) (MPTMS- TEOS) used for SiO2-baed matrices. Brunauer–Emmett–Teller (BET), and BJH indicate that the SiO₂ transformed from microporous to mesoporous upon the addition of La³⁺ luminophore with increased surface area (SBET). The typical amorphous SiO₂ based xerogels were revealed with X-Ray diffraction (XRD) and Selected Area Electron Diffraction (SAED) analysis. Scanning electron microscope- (SEM) and transmission electron microscope (TEM) showed the porous morphology and reduced particle for SiO₂ and La-SiO₂ xerogels respectively. The existence of elements, siloxane networks, and thermal stability of xerogel was confirmed by energy dispersive spectroscopy (EDS), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and Thermographic analysis (TGA). UV-Vis spectroscopy and photoluminescence (PL) have been used to characterize the optical properties of xerogels. La-SiO₂ demonstrates promising characteristic features of an active sensing film for dissolved oxygen in the water. Keywords: Sol-gel, ORMOSILs, encapsulation, Luminophores quenching, O₂-sensing

Keywords: sol-gel, ORMOSILs, luminophores quenching, O₂-sensing

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264 Survey of the Elimination of Red Acid Dye by Wood Dust

Authors: N. Ouslimani, T. Abadlia, M. Fadel

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This work focused on the elimination of acid textile dye (red bermacide acid dye BN-CL-200), widely used for dyeing wool and polyamide fibers, by adsorption on a natural material, wood sawdust, in the static mode by keeping under continuous stirring, a specific mass of the adsorbent, with a dye solution of known concentration. The influence of various parameters is studied like the influence of particle size, mass, pH and time. The best results were obtained with 0.4 mm grain size, mass of 3g, Temperature of 20 °C, pH 2 and Time contact of 120 min.

Keywords: acid dye, environment, wood sawdust, wastewater

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263 Coils and Antennas Fabricated with Sewing Litz Wire for Wireless Power Transfer

Authors: Hikari Ryu, Yuki Fukuda, Kento Oishi, Chiharu Igarashi, Shogo Kiryu

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Recently, wireless power transfer has been developed in various fields. Magnetic coupling is popular for feeding power at a relatively short distance and at a lower frequency. Electro-magnetic wave coupling at a high frequency is used for long-distance power transfer. The wireless power transfer has attracted attention in e-textile fields. Rigid batteries are required for many body-worn electric systems at the present time. The technology enables such batteries to be removed from the systems. Flexible coils have been studied for such applications. Coils with a high Q factor are required in the magnetic-coupling power transfer. Antennas with low return loss are needed for the electro-magnetic coupling. Litz wire is so flexible to fabricate coils and antennas sewn on fabric and has low resistivity. In this study, the electric characteristics of some coils and antennas fabricated with the Litz wire by using two sewing techniques are investigated. As examples, a coil and an antenna are described. Both were fabricated with 330/0.04 mm Litz wire. The coil was a planar coil with a square shape. The outer side was 150 mm, the number of turns was 15, and the pitch interval between each turn was 5 mm. The Litz wire of the coil was overstitched with a sewing machine. The coil was fabricated as a receiver coil for a magnetic coupled wireless power transfer. The Q factor was 200 at a frequency of 800 kHz. A wireless power system was constructed by using the coil. A power oscillator was used in the system. The resonant frequency of the circuit was set to 123 kHz, where the switching loss of power FETs was small. The power efficiencies were 0.44 – 0.99, depending on the distance between the transmitter and receiver coils. As an example of an antenna with a sewing technique, a fractal pattern antenna was stitched on a 500 mm x 500 mm fabric by using a needle punch method. The pattern was the 2nd-oder Vicsec fractal. The return loss of the antenna was -28 dB at a frequency of 144 MHz.

Keywords: e-textile, flexible coils and antennas, Litz wire, wireless power transfer

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262 Enhancement of Light Extraction of Luminescent Coating by Nanostructuring

Authors: Aubry Martin, Nehed Amara, Jeff Nyalosaso, Audrey Potdevin, FrançOis ReVeret, Michel Langlet, Genevieve Chadeyron

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Energy-saving lighting devices based on LightEmitting Diodes (LEDs) combine a semiconductor chip emitting in the ultraviolet or blue wavelength region to one or more phosphor(s) deposited in the form of coatings. The most common ones combine a blue LED with the yellow phosphor Y₃Al₅O₁₂:Ce³⁺ (YAG:Ce) and a red phosphor. Even if these devices are characterized by satisfying photometric parameters (Color Rendering Index, Color Temperature) and good luminous efficiencies, further improvements can be carried out to enhance light extraction efficiency (increase in phosphor forward emission). One of the possible strategies is to pattern the phosphor coatings. Here, we have worked on different ways to nanostructure the coating surface. On the one hand, we used the colloidal lithography combined with the Langmuir-Blodgett technique to directly pattern the surface of YAG:Tb³⁺ sol-gel derived coatings, YAG:Tb³⁺ being used as phosphor model. On the other hand, we achieved composite architectures combining YAG:Ce coatings and ZnO nanowires. Structural, morphological and optical properties of both systems have been studied and compared to flat YAG coatings. In both cases, nanostructuring brought a significative enhancement of photoluminescence properties under UV or blue radiations. In particular, angle-resolved photoluminescence measurements have shown that nanostructuring modifies photons path within the coatings, with a better extraction of the guided modes. These two strategies have the advantage of being versatile and applicable to any phosphor synthesizable by sol-gel technique. They then appear as promising ways to enhancement luminescence efficiencies of both phosphor coatings and the optical devices into which they are incorporated, such as LED-based lighting or safety devices.

Keywords: phosphor coatings, nanostructuring, light extraction, ZnO nanowires, colloidal lithography, LED devices

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261 Cultural Knowledge Transfer of the Inherited Karen Backstrap Weaving for the 4th Generation of a Pwo Karen Community

Authors: Suphitcha Charoen-Amornkitt, Chokeanand Bussracumpakorn

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The tendency of the Karen backstrap weaving succession has gradually decreased due to the difficulty of weaving techniques and the relocation of the young generation. The Yang Nam Klat Nuea community, Nong Ya Plong District, Phetchaburi, is a Pwo Karen community that is seriously confronted with a lack of cultural heritage. Thus, a group of weavers was formed to revive the knowledge of weaving. However, they have been gradually confronted with culture assimilation to mainstream culture from the desire for marketing acceptance and imperative and forced the extinction of culture due to the disappearance of weaving details and techniques. Although there are practical solutions, i.e., product development, community improvement, knowledge improvement, and knowledge transfer, to inherit the Karen weaving culture, people in the community cannot fulfill their deep intention about the weaving inheritance as most solutions have focused on developing the commercial products and making the income instead of inheriting their knowledge. This research employed qualitative user research with an in-depth user interview to study communal knowledge transfer succession based on the internal involved parties, i.e., four expert weavers, three young weavers, and three 4th generation villagers. The purpose is to explore the correlation and mindset of villagers towards the culture with specific issues, including the psychology of culture, core knowledge and learning methods, cultural inheritance, and cultural engagement. As a result, the existing models of knowledge management mostly focused on tangible strategies, which can notice progress in short terms, such as direct teaching and consistent practicing. At the same time, the motivation and passion of inheritors were abolished while the research found that the young generation who profoundly connected with the textile culture will have a more significant intention to continue the culture. Therefore, this research suggests both internal and external solutions to treat the community. Regarding the internal solutions, family, weaving group, and school have an important role to participate with young villagers by encouraging activities to support the cultivating of Karen’s history, understanding their identities, and adapting the culture as a part of daily life. At the same time, collecting all of the knowledge in the archives, e.g., recorded video, instruction, and books, can crucially prevent the culture from extinction. Regarding the external solutions, this study suggests that working with social media will enhance the intimacy of textile culture, while the community should relieve the roles in marketing competition and start to drive cultural experiences to create a new market position. In conclusion, this research intends to explore the causes and motivation to support the transfer of the culture to the 4th generation villagers and to raise awareness of the diversity of culture in society. With these suggestions and the desire to improve pride and confidence in culture, the community agrees that strengthening the relationships between the young villagers and the weaving culture can bring attention and interest back to the weaving culture.

Keywords: Pwo Karen textile culture, backstrap weaving succession, cultural inheritance, knowledge transfer, knowledge management

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260 Bimetallic MOFs Based Membrane for the Removal of Heavy Metal Ions from the Industrial Wastewater

Authors: Muhammad Umar Mushtaq, Muhammad Bilal Khan Niazi, Nouman Ahmad, Dooa Arif

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Apart from organic dyes, heavy metals such as Pb, Ni, Cr, and Cu are present in textile effluent and pose a threat to humans and the environment. Many studies on removing heavy metallic ions from textile wastewater have been conducted in recent decades using metal-organic frameworks (MOFs). In this study new polyether sulfone ultrafiltration membrane, modified with Cu/Co and Cu/Zn-based bimetal-organic frameworks (MOFs), was produced. Phase inversion was used to produce the membrane, and atomic force microscopy (AFM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were used to characterize it. The bimetallic MOFs-based membrane structure is complex and can be comprehended using characterization techniques. The bimetallic MOF-based filtration membranes are designed to selectively adsorb specific contaminants while allowing the passage of water molecules, improving the ultrafiltration efficiency. MOFs' adsorption capacity and selectivity are enhanced by functionalizing them with particular chemical groups or incorporating them into composite membranes with other materials, such as polymers. The morphology and performance of the bimetallic MOF-based membrane were investigated regarding pure water flux and metal ion rejection. The advantages of developed bimetallic MOFs based membranes for wastewater treatment include enhanced adsorption capacity because of the presence of two metals in their structure, which provides additional binding sites for contaminants, leading to a higher adsorption capacity and more efficient removal of pollutants from wastewater. Based on the experimental findings, bimetallic MOF-based membranes are more capable of rejecting metal ions from industrial wastewater than conventional membranes that have already been developed. Furthermore, the difficulties associated with operational parameters, including pressure gradients and velocity profiles, are simulated using Ansys Fluent software. The simulation results obtained for the operating parameters are in complete agreement with the experimental results.

Keywords: bimetallic MOFs, heavy metal ions, industrial wastewater treatment, ultrafiltration.

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259 Mediating Role of 'Investment Recovery' and 'Competitiveness' on the Impact of Green Supply Chain Management Practices over Firm Performance: An Empirical Study Based on Textile Industry of Pakistan

Authors: Mehwish Jawaad

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Purpose: The concept of GrSCM (Green Supply Chain Management) in the academic and research field is still thought to be in the development stage especially in Asian Emerging Economies. The purpose of this paper is to contribute significantly to the first wave of empirical investigation on GrSCM Practices and Firm Performance measures in Pakistan. The aim of this research is to develop a more holistic approach towards investigating the impact of Green Supply Chain Management Practices (Ecodesign, Internal Environmental Management systems, Green Distribution, Green Purchasing and Cooperation with Customers) on multiple dimensions of Firm Performance Measures (Economic Performance, Environmental Performance and Operational Performance) with a mediating role of Investment Recovery and Competitiveness. This paper also serves as an initiative to identify if the relationship between Investment Recovery and Firm Performance Measures is mediated by Competitiveness. Design/ Methodology/Approach: This study is based on survey Data collected from 272, ISO (14001) Certified Textile Firms Based in Lahore, Faisalabad, and Karachi which are involved in Spinning, Dyeing, Printing or Bleaching. A Theoretical model was developed incorporating the constructs representing Green Activities and Firm Performance Measures of a firm. The data was analyzed using Partial Least Square Structural Equation Modeling. Senior and Mid-level managers provided the data reflecting the degree to which their organizations deal with both internal and external stakeholders to improve the environmental sustainability of their supply chain. Findings: Of the 36 proposed Hypothesis, 20 are considered valid and significant. The statistics result reveal that GrSCM practices positively impact Environmental Performance followed by Economic and Operational Performance. Investment Recovery acts as a strong mediator between Intra organizational Green activities and performance outcomes. The relationship of Reverse Logistics influencing outcomes is significantly mediated by Competitiveness. The pressure originating from customers exert significant positive influence on the firm to adopt Green Practices consequently leading to higher outcomes. Research Contribution/Originality: Underpinning the Resource dependence theory and as a first wave of investigating the impact of Green Supply chain on performance outcomes in Pakistan, this study intends to make a prominent mark in the field of research. Investment and Competitiveness together are tested as a mediator for the first time in this arena. Managerial implications: Practitioner is provided with a framework for assessing the synergistic impact of GrSCM practices on performance. Upgradation of Accreditations and Audit Programs on regular basis are the need of the hour. Making the processes leaner with the sale of excess inventories and scrap helps the firm to work more efficiently and productively.

Keywords: economic performance, environmental performance, green supply chain management practices, operational performance, sustainability, a textile sector of Pakistan

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258 Semiconductor Supported Gold Nanoparticles for Photodegradation of Rhodamine B

Authors: Ahmad Alshammari, Abdulaziz Bagabas, Muhamad Assulami

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Rhodamine B (RB) is a toxic dye used extensively in textile industry, which must be remediated before its drainage to the environment. In the present study, supported gold nanoparticles on commercially available titania and zincite were successfully prepared and then their activity on the photodegradation of RB under UV-A light irradiation were evaluated. The synthesized photocatalysts were characterized by ICP, BET, XRD, and TEM. Kinetic results showed that Au/TiO2 was an inferior photocatalyst to Au/ZnO. This observation could be attributed to the strong reflection of UV irradiation by gold nanoparticles over TiO2 support.

Keywords: supported AuNPs, semiconductor photocatalyst, photodegradation, rhodamine B

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257 The Effect of Rheological Properties and Spun/Meltblown Fiber Characteristics on “Hotmelt Bleed through” Behavior in High Speed Textile Backsheet Lamination Process

Authors: Kinyas Aydin, Fatih Erguney, Tolga Ceper, Serap Ozay, Ipar N. Uzun, Sebnem Kemaloglu Dogan, Deniz Tunc

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In order to meet high growth rates in baby diaper industry worldwide, the high-speed textile backsheet lamination lines have recently been introduced to the market for non-woven/film lamination applications. It is a process where two substrates are bonded to each other via hotmelt adhesive (HMA). Nonwoven (NW) lamination system basically consists of 4 components; polypropylene (PP) nonwoven, polyethylene (PE) film, HMA and applicator system. Each component has a substantial effect on the process efficiency of continuous line and final product properties. However, for a precise subject cover, we will be addressing only the main challenges and possible solutions in this paper. The NW is often produced by spunbond method (SSS or SMS configuration) and has a 10-12 gsm (g/m²) basis weight. The NW rolls can have a width and length up to 2.060 mm and 30.000 linear meters, respectively. The PE film is the 2ⁿᵈ component in TBS lamination, which is usually a 12-14 gsm blown or cast breathable film. HMA is a thermoplastic glue (mostly rubber based) that can be applied in a large range of viscosity ranges. The main HMA application technology in TBS lamination is the slot die application in which HMA is spread on the top of the NW along the whole width at high temperatures in the melt form. Then, the NW is passed over chiller rolls with a certain open time depending on the line speed. HMAs are applied at certain levels in order to provide a proper de-lamination strength in cross and machine directions to the entire structure. Current TBS lamination line speed and width can be as high as 800 m/min and 2100 mm, respectively. They also feature an automated web control tension system for winders and unwinders. In order to run a continuous trouble-free mass production campaign on the fast industrial TBS lines, rheological properties of HMAs and micro-properties of NWs can have adverse effects on the line efficiency and continuity. NW fiber orientation and fineness, as well as spun/melt blown composition fabric micro-level properties, are the significant factors to affect the degree of “HMA bleed through.” As a result of this problem, frequent line stops are observed to clean the glue that is being accumulated on the chiller rolls, which significantly reduces the line efficiency. HMA rheology is also important and to eliminate any bleed through the problem; one should have a good understanding of rheology driven potential complications. So, the applied viscosity/temperature should be optimized in accordance with the line speed, line width, NW characteristics and the required open time for a given HMA formulation. In this study, we will show practical aspects of potential preventative actions to minimize the HMA bleed through the problem, which may stem from both HMA rheological properties and NW spun melt/melt blown fiber characteristics.

Keywords: breathable, hotmelt, nonwoven, textile backsheet lamination, spun/melt blown

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256 Valorization of Argan Residuals for the Treatment of Industrial Effluents

Authors: Salim Ahmed

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The aim of this study was to recover a natural residue in the form of activated carbon prepared from Moroccan "argan pits and date pits" plant waste. After preparing the raw material for manufacture, the carbon was carbonised at 300°C and chemically activated with phosphoric acid of purity 85. The various characterisation results (moisture and ash content, specific surface area, pore volume, etc.) showed that the carbons obtained are comparable to those manufactured industrially and could therefore be tested, for example, in water treatment processes and especially for the depollution of effluents used in the agri-food and textile industries.

Keywords: activated carbon, water treatment, adsorption, argan

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255 Thermoluminescence Study of Cu Doped Lithium Tetra Borate Samples Synthesized by Water/Solution Assisted Method

Authors: Swarnapriya Thiyagarajan, Modesto Antonio Sosa Aquino, Miguel Vallejo Hernandez, Senthilkumar Kalaiselvan Dhivyaraj, Jayaramakrishnan Velusamy

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In this paper the lithium tetra borate (Li2B4O7) was prepared by used water/solution assisted synthesis method. Once finished the synthesization, Copper (Cu) were used to doping material with Li2B4O7 in order to enhance its thermo luminescent properties. The heating temperature parameters were 750°C for 2 hr and 150°C for 2hr. The samples produced by water assisted method were doped at different doping percentage (0.02%, 0.04%, 0.06%, 0.08%, 0.12%, 0.5%, 0.1%, and 1%) of Cu.The characteristics and identification of Li2B4O7 (undoped and doped) were determined in four tests. They are X-ray diffraction (XRD), Scanning electron microscope (SEM), Photoluminescence (PL), Ultra violet visible spectroscopy (UV Vis). As it is evidence from the XRD and SEM results the obtained Li2B4O7 and Li2B4O7 doping with Cu was confirmed and also confirmed the chemical compositition and their morphologies. The obtained lithium tetraborate XRD pattern result was verified with the reference data of lithium tetraborate with tetragonal structure from JCPDS. The glow curves of Li2B4O7 and Li2B4O7 : Cu were obtained by thermo luminescence (TLD) reader (Harshaw 3500). The pellets were irradiated with different kind of dose (58mGy, 100mGy, 500mGy, and 945mGy) by using an X-ray source. Finally this energy response was also compared with TLD100. The order of kinetics (b), frequency factor (S) and activation energy (E) or the trapping parameters were calculated using peak shape method. Especially Li2B4O7: Cu (0.1%) presents good glow curve in all kind of doses. The experimental results showed that this Li2B4O7: Cu could have good potential applications in radiation dosimetry. The main purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of synthesis on the TL properties of doped lithium tetra borate Li2B4O7.

Keywords: dosimetry, irradiation, lithium tetraborate, thermoluminescence

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254 Observing Sustainability: Case Studies of Chandigarh Boutiques and Their Textile Waste Reuse

Authors: Prabhdip Brar

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Since the ancient times recycling, reusing and upcycling has been strongly practiced in India. However, previously reprocess was common due to lack of resources and availability of free time, especially with women who were homemakers. The upward strategy of design philosophy and drift of sustainability is sustainable fashion which is also termed eco fashion, the aspiration of which is to craft a classification which can be supported ad infinitum in terms of environmentalism and social responsibility. The viable approach of sustaining fashion is part of the larger trend of justifiable design where a product is generated and produced while considering its social impact to the environment. The purpose of this qualitative research paper is to find out if the apparel design boutiques in Chandigarh, (an educated fashion-conscious city) are contributing towards making conscious efforts with the re-use of environmentally responsive materials to rethink about eco-conscious traditional techniques and socially responsible approaches of the invention. Observation method and case studies of ten renowned boutiques of Chandigarh were conducted to find out about the creativity of their waste management and social contribution. Owners were interviewed with open-ended questions to find out their understanding of sustainability. This paper concludes that there are many sustainable ideas existing within India from olden times that can be incorporated into modern manufacturing techniques. The results showed all the designers are aware of sustainability as a concept. In all practical purposes, a patch of fabric is being used for bindings or one over the other as surface ornamentation techniques. Plain Fabrics and traditional prints and fabrics are valued more by the owners for using on other garments. Few of them sort their leftover pieces according to basic colors. Few boutique owners preferred donating it to Non-Government organizations. Still, they have enough waste which is not utilized because of lack of time and labor. This paper discusses how the Indian traditional techniques still derive influences though design and techniques, making India one of the contributing countries to the sustainability of fashion and textiles.

Keywords: eco-fashion textile, sustainable textiles, sustainability in india, waste management

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253 Ancient Egyptian Industry Technology of Canopic Jars, Analytical Study and Conservation Processes of Limestone Canopic Jar

Authors: Abd El Rahman Mohamed

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Canopic jars made by the ancient Egyptians from different materials were used to preserve the viscera during the mummification process. The canopic jar studied here dates back to the Late Period (712-332 BC). It is found in the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM), Giza, Egypt. This jar was carved from limestone and covered with a monkey head lid with painted eyes and ears with red pigment and surrounded with black pigment. The jar contains bandages of textile containing mummy viscera with resin and black resin blocks. The canopic jars were made using the sculpting tools that were used by the ancient Egyptians, such as metal chisels (made of copper) and hammers and emptying the mass of the jar from the inside using a tool invented by the ancient Egyptians, which called the emptying drill. This study also aims to use analytical techniques to identify the components of the jar, its contents, pigments, and previous restoration materials and to understand its deterioration aspects. Visual assessment, isolation and identification of fungi, optical microscopy (OM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF), X-ray diffraction (XRD), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) were used in our study. The jar showed different signs of deterioration, such as dust, dirt, stains, scratches, classifications, missing parts, and breaks; previous conservation materials include using iron wire, completion mortar and an adhesive for assembly. The results revealed that the jar was carved from Dolomite Limestone, red Hematite pigment, Mastic resin, and Linen textile bandages. The previous adhesive was Animal Glue and used Gypsum for the previous completion. The most dominant Microbial infection on the jar was found in the fungi of (Penicillium waksmanii), (Nigrospora sphaerica), (Actinomycetes sp) and (Spore-Forming Gram-Positive Bacilli). Conservation procedures have been applied with high accuracy to conserve the jar, including mechanical and chemical cleaning, re-assembling, completion and consolidation.

Keywords: Canopic jar, Consolidation, Mummification, Resin, Viscera.

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252 Development of a Systematic Approach to Assess the Applicability of Silver Coated Conductive Yarn

Authors: Y. T. Chui, W. M. Au, L. Li

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Recently, wearable electronic textiles have been emerging in today’s market and were developed rapidly since, beside the needs for the clothing uses for leisure, fashion wear and personal protection, there also exist a high demand for the clothing to be capable for function in this electronic age, such as interactive interfaces, sensual being and tangible touch, social fabric, material witness and so on. With the requirements of wearable electronic textiles to be more comfortable, adorable, and easy caring, conductive yarn becomes one of the most important fundamental elements within the wearable electronic textile for interconnection between different functional units or creating a functional unit. The properties of conductive yarns from different companies can vary to a large extent. There are vitally important criteria for selecting the conductive yarns, which may directly affect its optimization, prospect, applicability and performance of the final garment. However, according to the literature review, few researches on conductive yarns on shelf focus on the assessment methods of conductive yarns for the scientific selection of material by a systematic way under different conditions. Therefore, in this study, direction of selecting high-quality conductive yarns is given. It is to test the stability and reliability of the conductive yarns according the problems industrialists would experience with the yarns during the every manufacturing process, in which, this assessment system can be classified into four stage. That is 1) Yarn stage, 2) Fabric stage, 3) Apparel stage and 4) End user stage. Several tests with clear experiment procedures and parameters are suggested to be carried out in each stage. This assessment method suggested that the optimal conducting yarns should be stable in property and resistant to various corrosions at every production stage or during using them. It is expected that this demonstration of assessment method can serve as a pilot study that assesses the stability of Ag/nylon yarns systematically at various conditions, i.e. during mass production with textile industry procedures, and from the consumer perspective. It aims to assist industrialists to understand the qualities and properties of conductive yarns and suggesting a few important parameters that they should be reminded of for the case of higher level of suitability, precision and controllability.

Keywords: applicability, assessment method, conductive yarn, wearable electronics

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251 Development of Bicomponent Fibre to Combat Insects

Authors: M. Bischoff, F. Schmidt, J. Herrmann, J. Mattheß, G. Seide, T. Gries

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Crop yields have not increased as dramatically as the demand for food. One method to counteract this is to use pesticides to keep away predators, e.g. several forms of insecticide are available to fight insects. These insecticides and pesticides are both controversial as their application and their residue in the food product can also harm humans. In this study an alternative method to combat insects is studied. A physical insect-killing effect of SiO2 particles is used. The particles are applied on fibres to avoid erosion in the fields, which would occur when applied separately. The development of such SiO2 functionalized PP fibres is shown.

Keywords: agriculture, environment, insects, protection, silica, textile

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250 Investigating the Thermal Comfort Properties of Mohair Fabrics

Authors: Adine Gericke, Jiri Militky, Mohanapriya Venkataraman

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Mohair, obtained from the Angora goat, is a luxury fiber and recognized as one of the best quality natural fibers. Expansion of the use of mohair into technical and functional textile products necessitates the need for a better understanding of how the use of mohair in fabrics will impact on its thermo-physiological comfort related properties. Despite its popularity, very little information is available on the quantification of the thermal and moisture management properties of mohair fabrics. This study investigated the effect of fibrous matter composition and fabric structural parameters on conductive and convective heat transfers to attain more information on the thermal comfort properties of mohair fabrics. Dry heat transfer through textiles may involve conduction through the fibrous phase, radiation through fabric interstices and convection of air within the structure. Factors that play a major role in heat transfer by conduction are fabric areal density (g/m2) and derived quantities such as cover factor and porosity. Convective heat transfer through fabrics is found in environmental conditions where there is wind-flow or the object is moving (e.g. running or walking). The thermal comfort properties of mohair fibers were objectively evaluated firstly in comparison with other textile fibers and secondly in a variety of fabric structures. Two sample sets were developed for this purpose, with fibre content, yarn structure and fabric design as main variables. SEM and microscopic images were obtained to closely examine the physical structures of the fibers and fabrics. Thermal comfort properties such as thermal resistance and thermal conductivity, as well as fabric thickness, were measured on the well-known Alambeta test instrument. Clothing insulation (clo) was calculated from the above. The thermal properties of fabrics under heat convection was evaluated using a laboratory model device developed at the Technical University of Liberec (referred to as the TP2-instrument). The effects of the different variables on fabric thermal comfort properties were analyzed statistically using TIBCO Statistica Software. The results showed that fabric structural properties, specifically sample thickness, played a significant role in determining the thermal comfort properties of the fabrics tested. It was found that regarding thermal resistance related to conductive heat flow, the effect of fiber type was not always statistically significant, probably as a result of the amount of trapped air within the fabric structure. The very low thermal conductivity of air, compared to that of the fibers, had a significant influence on the total conductivity and thermal resistance of the samples. This was confirmed by the high correlation of these factors with sample thickness. Regarding convective heat flow, the most important factor influencing the ability of the fabric to allow dry heat to move through the structure, was again fabric thickness. However, it would be wrong to totally disregard the effect of fiber composition on the thermal resistance of textile fabrics. In this study, the samples containing mohair or mohair/wool were consistently thicker than the others even though weaving parameters were kept constant. This can be ascribed to the physical properties of the mohair fibers that renders it exceptionally well towards trapping air among fibers (in a yarn) as well as among yarns (inside a fabric structure). The thicker structures trap more air to provide higher thermal insulation, but also prevent the free flow of air that allow thermal convection.

Keywords: mohair fabrics, convective heat transfer, thermal comfort properties, thermal resistance

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249 Defining the Customers' Color Preference for the Apparel Industry in Terms of Chromaticity Coordinates

Authors: Banu Hatice Gürcüm, Pınar Arslan, Mahmut Yalçın

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Fashion designers create lots of dresses, suits, shoes, and other clothing and accessories, which are purchased every year by consumers. Fashion trends, sketches of designs, accessories affect the apparel goods, but colors make the finishing touches to an outfit. In all fields of apparel men's, women's, and children's wear, including casual wear, suits, sportswear, formal wear, outerwear, maternity, and intimate apparel, color sells. Thus, specialization in color in apparel is a basic concern each season. The perception of color is the key to sales for every sector in textile business. Mechanism of color perception, cognition in brain and color emotion are unique subjects, which scientists have been investigating for many years. The parameters of color may not be corresponding to visual scales since human emotions induced by color are completely subjective. However, with a very few exception each manufacturer concern their top selling colors for each season through seasonal sales reports of apparel companies. This paper examines sensory and instrumental methods for quantifying color of fabrics and investigates the relationship between fabric color and sale numbers. 5 top selling colors for each season from 10 leading apparel companies in the same segment are taken. The compilation is based according to the sales of the companies for 5 to 10 years. The research’s main concern is the corelation with the magnitude of seasonal color selling figures and the CIE chromaticity coordinates. The colors are chosen from the globally accepted Pantone Textile Color System and the three-dimentional measurement system CIE L*a*b* (CIELAB) is used, L* representing the degree of lightness of color, a* the degree of color ranging from magenta to green, and b* the degree of color ranging from blue to yellow. The objective of this paper is to demonstrate the feasibility of relating color perceptance to a laboratory instrument yielding measurements in the CIELAB system. Our approach is to obtain a total of a hundred reference fabrics to be measured on a laboratory spectrophotometer calibrated to the CIELAB color system. Relationships between the CIE tristimulus (X, Y, Z) and CIELAB (L*, a*, b*) are examined and are reported herein.

Keywords: CIELAB, CIE tristimulus, color preference, fashion

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248 Development of an Implicit Coupled Partitioned Model for the Prediction of the Behavior of a Flexible Slender Shaped Membrane in Interaction with Free Surface Flow under the Influence of a Moving Flotsam

Authors: Mahtab Makaremi Masouleh, Günter Wozniak

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This research is part of an interdisciplinary project, promoting the design of a light temporary installable textile defence system against flood. In case river water levels increase abruptly especially in winter time, one can expect massive extra load on a textile protective structure in term of impact as a result of floating debris and even tree trunks. Estimation of this impulsive force on such structures is of a great importance, as it can ensure the reliability of the design in critical cases. This fact provides the motivation for the numerical analysis of a fluid structure interaction application, comprising flexible slender shaped and free-surface water flow, where an accelerated heavy flotsam tends to approach the membrane. In this context, the analysis on both the behavior of the flexible membrane and its interaction with moving flotsam is conducted by finite elements based solvers of the explicit solver and implicit Abacus solver available as products of SIMULIA software. On the other hand, a study on how free surface water flow behaves in response to moving structures, has been investigated using the finite volume solver of Star CCM+ from Siemens PLM Software. An automatic communication tool (CSE, SIMULIA Co-Simulation Engine) and the implementation of an effective partitioned strategy in form of an implicit coupling algorithm makes it possible for partitioned domains to be interconnected powerfully. The applied procedure ensures stability and convergence in the solution of these complicated issues, albeit with high computational cost; however, the other complexity of this study stems from mesh criterion in the fluid domain, where the two structures approach each other. This contribution presents the approaches for the establishment of a convergent numerical solution and compares the results with experimental findings.

Keywords: co-simulation, flexible thin structure, fluid-structure interaction, implicit coupling algorithm, moving flotsam

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247 Evaluation of Azo Dye Toxicity Using Some Haematological and Histopathological Alterations in Fish Catla Catla

Authors: Jagruti Barot

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The textile industry plays a major role in the economy of India and on the other side of the coin it is the major source for water pollution. As azo dyes is the largest dye class they are extensively used in many fields such as textile industry, leather tanning industry, paper production, food, colour photography, pharmaceuticals and medicine, cosmetic, hair colourings, wood staining, agricultural, biological and chemical research etc. In addition to these, they can have acute and/or chronic effects on organisms depending on their concentration and length of exposure when they discharged as effluent in the environment. The aim of this study was to assess the genotoxic and histotoxic potentials of environmentally relevant concentrations of RR 120 on Catla catla, important edible freshwater fingerlings. For this, healthy Catla catla fingerlings were procured from the Government Fish Farm and acclimatized in 100 L capacity and continuously aerated glass aquarium in laboratory for 15 days. According to APHA some physic-chemical parameters were measured and maintained such as temperature, pH, dissolve oxygen, alkalinity, total hardness. Water along with excreta had been changed every 24 hrs. All fingerlings were fed artificial food palates once a day @ body weight. After 15 days fingerlings were grouped in 5 (10 in each) and exposed to various concentrations of RR 120 (Control, 10, 20, 30 and 40 mg/L) and samples (peripheral blood and gills, kidney) were collected and analyzed at 96 hrs. of interval. All results were compared with the control. Micronuclei (MN), nuclear buds (NB), fragmented-apoptotic (FA) and bi-nucleated (BN) cells in blood cells and in tissues (gills and kidney cells) were observed. Prominent histopathological alterations were noticed in gills such as aneurism, hyperplasia, degenerated central axis, lifting of gill epithelium, curved secondary gill lamellae etc. Similarly kidney showed some detrimental changes like shrunken glomeruli with increased periglomerular space, degenerated renal tubules etc. Both haematological and histopathological changes clearly reveal the toxic potential of RR 120. This work concludes that water pollution assessment can be done by these two biomarkers which provide baseline to the further chromosomal or molecular work.

Keywords: micronuclei, genotoxicity, RR 120, Catla catla

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246 A Study on Adsorption Ability of MnO2 Nanoparticles to Remove Methyl Violet Dye from Aqueous Solution

Authors: Zh. Saffari, A. Naeimi, M. S. Ekrami-Kakhki, Kh. Khandan-Barani

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The textile industries are becoming a major source of environmental contamination because an alarming amount of dye pollutants are generated during the dyeing processes. Organic dyes are one of the largest pollutants released into wastewater from textile and other industrial processes, which have shown severe impacts on human physiology. Nano-structure compounds have gained importance in this category due their anticipated high surface area and improved reactive sites. In recent years several novel adsorbents have been reported to possess great adsorption potential due to their enhanced adsorptive capacity. Nano-MnO2 has great potential applications in environment protection field and has gained importance in this category because it has a wide variety of structure with large surface area. The diverse structures, chemical properties of manganese oxides are taken advantage of in potential applications such as adsorbents, sensor catalysis and it is also used for wide catalytic applications, such as degradation of dyes. In this study, adsorption of Methyl Violet (MV) dye from aqueous solutions onto MnO2 nanoparticles (MNP) has been investigated. The surface characterization of these nano particles was examined by Particle size analysis, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and X-Ray Diffraction (XRD). The effects of process parameters such as initial concentration, pH, temperature and contact duration on the adsorption capacities have been evaluated, in which pH has been found to be most effective parameter among all. The data were analyzed using the Langmuir and Freundlich for explaining the equilibrium characteristics of adsorption. And kinetic models like pseudo first- order, second-order model and Elovich equation were utilized to describe the kinetic data. The experimental data were well fitted with Langmuir adsorption isotherm model and pseudo second order kinetic model. The thermodynamic parameters, such as Free energy of adsorption (ΔG°), enthalpy change (ΔH°) and entropy change (ΔS°) were also determined and evaluated.

Keywords: MnO2 nanoparticles, adsorption, methyl violet, isotherm models, kinetic models, surface chemistry

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245 Empirical Investigation of Barriers to Industrial Energy Conservation Measures in the Manufacturing Small and Medium Enterprises (SME's) of Pakistan

Authors: Muhammad Tahir Hassan, Stas Burek, Muhammad Asif, Mohamed Emad

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Industrial sector in Pakistan accounts for 25% of total energy consumption in the country. The performance of this sector has been severely affected due to the adverse effect of current energy crises in the country. Energy conservation potentials of Pakistan’s industrial sectors through energy management can save wasted energy which would ultimately leads to economic and environmental benefits. However due to lack of financial incentives of energy efficiency and absence of energy benchmarking within same industrial sectors are some of the main challenges in the implementation of energy management. In Pakistan, this area has not been adequately explored, and there is a lack of focus on the need for industrial energy efficiency and proper management. The main objective of this research is to evaluate the current energy management performance of Pakistani industrial sector and empirical investigation of the existence of various barriers to industrial energy efficiency. Data was collected from the respondents of 192 small and medium-sized enterprises (SME’s) of Pakistan i.e. foundries, textile, plastic industries, light engineering, auto and spare parts and ceramic manufacturers and analysed using Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (SPSS) software. Current energy management performance of manufacturing SME’s in Pakistan has been evaluated by employing two significant indicators, ‘Energy Management Matrix’ and ‘pay-off criteria’, with modified approach. Using the energy management matrix, energy management profiles of overall industry and the individual sectors have been drawn to assess the energy management performance and identify the weak and strong areas as well. Results reveal that, energy management practices in overall surveyed industries are at very low level. Energy management profiles drawn against each sector suggest that performance of textile sector is better among all the surveyed manufacturing SME’s. The empirical barriers to industrial energy efficiency have also been ranked according to the overall responses. The results further reveal that there is a significant relationship exists among the industrial size, sector type and nature of barriers to industrial energy efficiency for the manufacturing SME’s in Pakistan. The findings of this study may help the industries and policy makers in Pakistan to formulate a sustainable energy policy to support industrial energy efficiency keeping in view the actual existing energy efficiency scenario in the industrial sector.

Keywords: barriers, energy conservation, energy management profile, environment, manufacturing SME's of Pakistan

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244 Structural Properties of Surface Modified PVA: Zn97Pr3O Polymer Nanocomposite Free Standing Films

Authors: Pandiyarajan Thangaraj, Mangalaraja Ramalinga Viswanathan, Karthikeyan Balasubramanian, Héctor D. Mansilla, José Ruiz

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Rare earth ions doped semiconductor nanostructures gained much attention due to their novel physical and chemical properties which lead to potential applications in laser technology as inexpensive luminescent materials. Doping of rare earth ions into ZnO semiconductor alter its electronic structure and emission properties. Surface modification (polymer covering) is one of the simplest techniques to modify the emission characteristics of host materials. The present work reports the synthesis and structural properties of PVA:Zn97Pr3O polymer nanocomposite free standing films. To prepare Pr3+ doped ZnO nanostructures and PVA:Zn97Pr3O polymer nanocomposite free standing films, the colloidal chemical and solution casting techniques were adopted, respectively. The formation of PVA:Zn97Pr3O films were confirmed through X-ray diffraction (XRD), absorption and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy analyses. XRD measurements confirm the prepared materials are crystalline having hexagonal wurtzite structure. Polymer composite film exhibits the diffraction peaks of both PVA and ZnO structures. TEM images reveal the pure and Pr3+ doped ZnO nanostructures exhibit sheet like morphology. Optical absorption spectra show free excitonic absorption band of ZnO at 370 nm and, the PVA:Zn97Pr3O polymer film shows absorption bands at ~282 and 368 nm and these arise due to the presence of carbonyl containing structures connected to the PVA polymeric chains, mainly at the ends and free excitonic absorption of ZnO nanostructures, respectively. Transmission spectrum of as prepared film shows 57 to 69% of transparency in the visible and near IR region. FTIR spectral studies confirm the presence of A1 (TO) and E1 (TO) modes of Zn-O bond vibration and the formation of polymer composite materials.

Keywords: rare earth doped ZnO, polymer composites, structural characterization, surface modification

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243 Heat Setting of Polyester: Teaching and Learning Materials

Authors: C. W. Kan

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Heat setting is a commonly used technique in textile industry for treating synthetic fibers. In this study, we examined the effect of heat-setting process on the dyeing properties of polyester fabric. The heat setting conditions were varied, and these conditions would affect the dyeing results. The aim of this study is to illustrate the proper application method of heat setting process to polyester fabric, and the results could provide guidance note to the students in learning this topic. Acknowledgment: Authors would like to thank the financial support from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University for this work.

Keywords: learning materials, heat setting, polyester, dyeing

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242 Evaluation of the Antiviral Activity of Dermaseptin Analogs Against Zika Virus

Authors: Houda Haddad, Nolwen Jouvenet, Maxime Chazal, Frédéric Tangy, Amira Zairi

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Zika virus represents the primary cause of infection during pregnancy and can lead to various neurological disorders, such as microcephaly and Guillain-Barré syndrome, affecting both children and adults. This infection is also associated with urological and nephrological problems. So far, evidence of mosquito-borne Zika virus infection has been reported in a total of 89 countries and territories. However, surveillance efforts primarily concentrate on outbreaks that this virus can cause, yet the measures implemented are typically limited. Currently, there are no specific treatments or vaccines designed for the prevention or treatment of Zika virus infection or its associated disease. The development of effective therapeutic agents presents an urgent need. Importantly, an alternative for advancing the discovery of molecules could be dermaseptins, a family of antimicrobial peptides known for their potential antiviral properties. In this study, we carried out the synthesis of dermaseptins and their analogs and subsequently assessed the bioactivity tests against Zika virus (ZIKV PF13) of dermaseptins B2 and S4 and their derivatives. The cytotoxicity of these peptides was investigated on the HMC3 cell line and HeLa cells by CellTiter-Glo® Luminescent Cell Viability Assay. Thereafter, we evaluated the antiviral activity caused by the action of our dermaseptins on the viral envelope using the Fluorescence Activated Cell Sorting (FACS). The cytotoxicity of our molecules was concentration-dependent at microgram concentrations except for dermaseptin B2 and its derivative, which present no toxicity against HeLa and HMC3 cell lines. It was observed that all tested analogs from the S4 family exhibited antiviral activity with low concentrations ranging from 3 to 12.5 μg/mL, unlike the native B2 and its derivative, which increased the infectivity. Pre-incubating of dermaseptins with ZIKV PF13 before infection revealed that these derivatives inhibit the initial stages of virus infection. In summary, these results suggest that dermaseptins could serve as lead structures for the development of potent antiviral agents against Zika virus infections.

Keywords: dermaseptin B2, dermaseptin S4, analogs, zika virus, neurological infections, antiviral activity

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241 Ikat: Undaunted Journey of a Traditional Textile Practice, a Sublime Connect of Traditionality with Modernity and Calibration for Eco-Sustainable Options

Authors: Purva Khurana

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Traditional textile crafts are universally found to have been significantly impeded by the uprise of innovative technologies, but sustained human endeavor, in sync with dynamic market nuances, holds key to these otherwise getting fast-extinct marvels. The metamorphosis of such art-forms into niche markets pre-supposes sharp concentration on adaptability. The author has concentrated on the ancient handicraft of Ikat in Andhra Pradesh (India), a manifestation of their cultural heritage and esoteric cottage industry, so very intrinsic to the development and support of local economy and identity. Like any other traditional practice, ikat weaving has been subjected to the challenges of modernization. However, owing to its unique character, personalize production and adaptability, both of material and process, ikat weaving has stood the test of time by way of judiciously embellishing innovation with contemporary taste. To survive as a living craft as also to justify its role as a universal language of aesthetic sensibility, it is imperative that ikat tradition should lend itself continuous process of experiments, change and growth. Besides, the instant paper aims to examine the contours of ikat production process from its pure form, to more fashion and market oriented production, with upgraded process, material and tools. Over the time, it has adapted well to new style-paradigms, duly matching up with the latest fashion trends, in tandem with the market-sensitivities. Apart, it is an effort to investigate how this craft could respond constructively to the pressure of contemporary technical developments in order to be at cutting edge, while preserving its integrity. In order to approach these issues, the methodology adopted is, conceptual analysis of the craft practices, its unique strength and how they could be used to advance the craft in relation to the emergence of technical developments. The paper summarizes the result of the study carried out by the author on the peculiar advantages of suitably- calibrated vat dyes over natural dyes, in terms of its recycling ability and eco-friendly properties, thus holding definite edge, both in terms of socio-economic as well as environmental concerns.

Keywords: craft, eco-friendly dyes, ikat, metamorphosis

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240 The Environmental Impacts of Textiles Reuse and Recycling: A Review on Life-Cycle-Assessment Publications

Authors: Samuele Abagnato, Lucia Rigamonti

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Life-Cycle-Assessment (LCA) is an effective tool to quantify the environmental impacts of reuse models and recycling technologies for textiles. In this work, publications in the last ten years about LCA on textile waste are classified according to location, goal and scope, functional unit, waste composition, impact assessment method, impact categories, and sensitivity analysis. Twenty papers have been selected: 50% are focused only on recycling, 30% only on reuse, the 15% on both, while only one paper considers only the final disposal of the waste. It is found that reuse is generally the best way to decrease the environmental impacts of textiles waste management because of the avoided impacts of manufacturing a new item. In the comparison between a product made with recycled yarns and a product from virgin materials, in general, the first option is less impact, especially for the categories of climate change, water depletion, and land occupation, while for other categories, such as eutrophication or ecotoxicity, under certain conditions the impacts of the recycled fibres can be higher. Cultivation seems to have quite high impacts when natural fibres are involved, especially in the land use and water depletion categories, while manufacturing requires a remarkable amount of electricity, with its associated impact on climate change. In the analysis of the reuse processes, relevant importance is covered by the laundry phase, with water consumption and impacts related to the use of detergents. About the sensitivity analysis, it can be stated that one of the main variables that influence the LCA results and that needs to be further investigated in the modeling of the LCA system about this topic is the substitution rate between recycled and virgin fibres, that is the amount of recycled material that can be used in place of virgin one. Related to this, also the yield of the recycling processes has a strong influence on the results of the impact. The substitution rate is also important in the modeling of the reuse processes because it represents the number of avoided new items bought in place of the reused ones. Another aspect that appears to have a large influence on the impacts is consumer behaviour during the use phase (for example, the number of uses between two laundry cycles). In conclusion, to have a deeper knowledge of the impacts of a life-cycle approach of textile waste, further data and research are needed in the modeling of the substitution rate and of the use phase habits of the consumers.

Keywords: environmental impacts, life-cycle-assessment, textiles recycling, textiles reuse, textiles waste management

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239 Thermal Stability and Electrical Conductivity of Ca₅Mg₄₋ₓMₓ(VO₄)₆ (0 ≤ x ≤ 4) where M = Zn, Ni Measured by Impedance Spectroscopy

Authors: Anna S. Tolkacheva, Sergey N. Shkerin, Kirill G. Zemlyanoi, Olga G. Reznitskikh, Pavel D. Khavlyuk

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Calcium oxovanadates with garnet related structure are multifunctional oxides in various fields like photoluminescence, microwave dielectrics, and magneto-dielectrics. For example, vanadate garnets are self-luminescent compounds. They attract attention as RE-free broadband excitation and emission phosphors and are candidate materials for UV-based white light-emitting diodes (WLEDs). Ca₅M₄(VO₄)₆ (M = Mg, Zn, Co, Ni, Mn) compounds are also considered promising for application in microwave devices as substrate materials. However, the relation between their structure, composition and physical/chemical properties remains unclear. Given the above-listed observations, goals of this study are to synthesise Ca₅M₄(VO₄)₆ (M = Mg, Zn, Ni) and to study their thermal and electrical properties. Solid solutions Ca₅Mg₄₋ₓMₓ(VO₄)₆ (0 ≤ x ≤ 4) where M is Zn and Ni have been synthesized by sol-gel method. The single-phase character of the final products was checked by powder X-ray diffraction on a Rigaku D/MAX-2200 X-ray diffractometer using Cu Kα radiation in the 2θ range from 15° to 70°. The dependence of thermal properties on chemical composition of solid solutions was studied using simultaneous thermal analyses (DSC and TG). Thermal analyses were conducted in a Netzch simultaneous analyser STA 449C Jupiter, in Ar atmosphere, in temperature range from 25 to 1100°C heat rate was 10 K·min⁻¹. Coefficients of thermal expansion (CTE) were obtained by dilatometry measurements in air up to 800°C using a Netzsch 402PC dilatometer; heat rate was 1 K·min⁻¹. Impedance spectra were obtained via the two-probe technique with an impedance meter Parstat 2273 in air up to 700°C with the variation of pH₂O from 0.04 to 3.35 kPa. Cation deficiency in Ca and Mg sublattice under the substitution of MgO with ZnO up to 1/6 was observed using Rietveld refinement of the crystal structure. Melting point was found to decrease with x changing from 0 to 4 in Ca₅Mg₄₋ₓMₓ(VO₄)₆ where M is Zn and Ni. It was observed that electrical conductivity does not depend on air humidity. The reported study was funded by the RFBR Grant No. 17–03–01280. Sample attestation was carried out in the Shared Access Centers at the IHTE UB RAS.

Keywords: garnet structure, electrical conductivity, thermal expansion, thermal properties

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