Eco-Design of Multifunctional System Based on a Shape Memory Polymer and ZnO Nanoparticles for Sportswear
Since the beginning of the 20th century, sportswear has a major contribution to the impact of fashion on our lives. Nowadays, the embracing of sportswear fashion/looks is undoubtedly noticeable, as the modern consumer searches for high comfort and linear aesthetics for its clothes. This compromise lead to the arise of the athleisure trend. Athleisure surges as a new style area that combines both wearability and fashion sense, differentiated from the archetypal sportswear, usually associated to “gym clothes”. Additionally, the possibility to functionalize and implement new technologies have shifted and progressively empowers the connection between the concepts of physical activities practice and well-being, allowing clothing to be more interactive and responsive with its surroundings. In this study, a design inspired in retro and urban lifestyle was envisioned, engineering textile structures that can respond to external stimuli. These structures are enhanced to be responsive to heat, water vapor and humidity, integrating shape memory polymers (SMP) to improve the breathability and heat-responsive behavior of the textiles and zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) to heighten the surface hydrophobic properties. The best results for hydrophobic exhibited superhydrophobic behavior with water contact angle (WAC) of more than 150 degrees. For the breathability and heat-response properties, SMP-coated samples showed an increase in water vapour permeability values of about 50% when compared with non SMP-coated samples. These innovative technological approaches were endorsed to design innovative clothing, in line with circular economy and eco-design principles, by assigning a substantial degree of mutability and versatility to the clothing. The development of a coat and shirt, in which different parts can be purchased separately to create multiple products, aims to combine the technicality of both the fabrics used and the making of the garments. This concept translates itself into a real constructive mechanism through the symbiosis of high-tech functionalities and the timeless design that follows the athleisure aesthetics.Procedia APA BibTeX Chicago EndNote Harvard JSON MLA RIS XML ISO 690 PDF Downloads 60
 Petro, G. (2015, September 16) Lululemon, Nike and the Rise of 'Athleisure', retrieved from www.forbes.com
 Varga, C. (2018, March), Active Intelligence – Athleisure is Not Dead, retrieved from www.wgsn.com
 N. Remy, E. Speelman, S. Swartz (2016, October), Sustainability & Resource Productivity - Style that’s sustainable: A fast-fashion formula, McKinsey&Company
 B. Cimatti, G. Campana, L. Carluccio, “Eco Design and Sustainable Manufacturing in Fashion: A Case Study in the Luxury Personal Accessories Industry”, Procedia Manufacturing, vol. 8, pp. 393-400, 2017.
 E. Westkämper, Alting, Arndt, Life, “Cycle Management and Assessment: Approaches and Visions Towards Sustainable Manufacturing (keynote paper)”, CIRP Annals, vol. 49, no. 2, pp. 501-526, 2000.
 M.L. Tseng, Y. Geng, “Evaluating the green supply chain management using life cycle assessment approach in uncertainty” Wseas Transactions on Environment and Development, vol. 8, no. 4, pp. 133-157, Oct. 2012.
 A.D. Jayal, F. Badurdeen, O.W. Dillon, I.S. Jawahir, “Sustainable manufacturing: Modeling and optimization challenges at the product, process and system levels”, CIRP Journal of Manufacturing Science and Technology, vol. 2, no. 3, pp. 144-152, 2010.
 M. Zhang, C. Wang, S. Wang, and J. Li, “Fabrication of superhydrophobic cotton textiles for water – oil separation based on drop-coating route,” Carbohydr. Polym., vol. 97, no. 1, pp. 59–64, 2013.
 R. Pandimurugan and S. Thambidurai, “UV protection and antibacterial properties of seaweed capped ZnO nanoparticles coated cotton fabrics,” Int. J. Biol. Macromol., vol. 105, pp. 788–795, 2017.
 W. Garner, Textile Laboratory Manual. Vol. 5: Fibres. New York, N. Y.: American Elsevier Publishing Co., 1967.
 R. (Ryszard) Kozłowski and E. Textile Institute (Manchester, Types, properties and factors affecting breeding and cultivation. Woodhead Pub, 2012.
 C. Yu, “Natural Textile Fibres: Vegetable Fibres -Chapter 2,” in Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology, 2014, pp. 29–56.
 P. J. Wakelyn and M. R. Chaudhry, “Organic cotton: Production practices and post-harvest considerations,” in Sustainable Textiles: Life Cycle and Environmental Impact, Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2009, pp. 231–301.
 S. S. Muthu, Textiles and clothing sustainability : recycled and upcycled textiles and fashion. 2017.
 Kermel, “Production of Polyamide-Imide Fibres,” 2013.
 M. Wen et al., “Structure and Mechanical Properties of Polyamid Fibres,” Surf. Coatings Technol., vol. 203, no. 12, pp. 1702–1708, Mar. 2009.
 C. Hallett and A. Johnston, Fabric for Fashion : the Complete Guide. Laurence King Publishing, 2014.
 A. Kavitha, Surekha, and Sahithi, “Role of Elastane in Apparel World,” Tech. Text., pp. 1–6, 2019.
 N. Ozdil and S. Anand, “Recent Developments in Textile Materials and Products Used for Activewear and Sportwear,” Electron. J. Text. Technol., vol. 8, no. 3, pp. 68–83, 2014.
 R. Senthil Kumar, Textiles in sports and leisure, vol. 21, no. 9. 2012.
 S. M. Costa, D. P. Ferreira, A. Ferreira, F. Vaz, and R. Fangueiro, “Multifunctional Flax Fibres Based on the Combined Effect of Silver and Zinc Oxide (Ag / ZnO) Nanostructures,” nanomaterials, vol. 8, no. 1069, pp. 1–21, 2018.
 I. Boticas, D. Dias, D. Ferreira, P. Magalhães, R. Silva, and R. Fangueiro, “Superhydrophobic cotton fabrics based on ZnO nanoparticles functionalization,” SN Appl. Sci., no. July, 2019.
 N. Agrawal, S. Munjal, M. Zubair, and N. Khare, “Superhydrophobic palmitic acid modified ZnO nanoparticles,” Ceram. Int., 2017.
 A. Mukhopadhyay and Vinay Kumar Midha, “A Review on Designing the Waterproof Breathable Fabrics Part I: Fundamental Principles and Designing Aspects of Breathable Fabrics,” in Journal of Industrial Textiles, vol. 37, no. 3, 2008, pp. 225–262.
 K. Fletcher, L. Grose (2012), “Fashion and Sustainability: Design for Change”, Laurence King Publishing.