Search results for: fashion catwalk
Commenced in January 2007
Frequency: Monthly
Edition: International
Paper Count: 383

Search results for: fashion catwalk

173 The Socio-Economic Impact of the English Leather Glove Industry from the 17th Century to Its Recent Decline

Authors: Frances Turner

Abstract:

Gloves are significant physical objects, being one of the oldest forms of dress. Glove culture is part of every facet of life; its extraordinary history encompasses practicality, and symbolism reflecting a wide range of social practices. The survival of not only the gloves but associated articles enables the possibility to analyse real lives, however so far this area has been largely neglected. Limited information is available to students, researchers, or those involved with the design and making of gloves. There are several museums and independent collectors in England that hold collections of gloves (some from as early as 16th century), machinery, tools, designs and patterns, marketing materials and significant archives which demonstrate the rich heritage of English glove design and manufacturing, being of national significance and worthy of international interest. Through a research glove network which now exists thanks to research grant funding, there is potential for the holders of glove collections to make connections and explore links between these resources to promote a stronger understanding of the significance, breadth and heritage of the English glove industry. The network takes an interdisciplinary approach to bring together interested parties from academia, museums and manufacturing, with expert knowledge of the production, collections, conservation and display of English leather gloves. Academics from diverse arts and humanities disciplines benefit from the opportunities to share research and discuss ideas with network members from non-academic contexts including museums and heritage organisations, industry, and contemporary designers. The fragmented collections when considered in entirety provide an overview of English glove making since earliest times and those who wore them. This paper makes connections and explores links between these resources to promote a stronger understanding of the significance, breadth and heritage of the English Glove industry. The following areas are explored: current content and status of the individual museum collections, potential links, sharing of information histories, social and cultural and relationship to history of fashion design, manufacturing and materials, approaches to maintenance and conservation, access to the collections and strategies for future understanding of their national significance. The facilitation of knowledge exchange and exploration of the collections through the network informs organisations’ future strategies for the maintenance, access and conservation of their collections. By involving industry in the network, it is possible to ensure a contemporary perspective on glove-making in addition to the input from heritage partners. The slow fashion movement and awareness of artisan craft and how these can be preserved and adopted for glove and accessory design is addressed. Artisan leather glove making was a skilled and significant industry in England that has now declined to the point where there is little production remaining utilising the specialist skills that have hardly changed since earliest times. This heritage will be identified and preserved for future generations of the rich cultural history of gloves may be lost.

Keywords: artisan glove-making skills, English leather gloves, glove culture, the glove network

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172 A Survey on Speech Emotion-Based Music Recommendation System

Authors: Chirag Kothawade, Gourie Jagtap, PreetKaur Relusinghani, Vedang Chavan, Smitha S. Bhosale

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Psychological research has proven that music relieves stress, elevates mood, and is responsible for the release of “feel-good” chemicals like oxytocin, serotonin, and dopamine. It comes as no surprise that music has been a popular tool in rehabilitation centers and therapy for various disorders, thus with the interminably rising numbers of people facing mental health-related issues across the globe, addressing mental health concerns is more crucial than ever. Despite the existing music recommendation systems, there is a dearth of holistically curated algorithms that take care of the needs of users. Given that, an undeniable majority of people turn to music on a regular basis and that music has been proven to increase cognition, memory, and sleep quality while reducing anxiety, pain, and blood pressure, it is the need of the hour to fashion a product that extracts all the benefits of music in the most extensive and deployable method possible. Our project aims to ameliorate our users’ mental state by building a comprehensive mood-based music recommendation system called “Viby”.

Keywords: language, communication, speech recognition, interaction

Procedia PDF Downloads 64
171 Non-Local Simultaneous Sparse Unmixing for Hyperspectral Data

Authors: Fanqiang Kong, Chending Bian

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Sparse unmixing is a promising approach in a semisupervised fashion by assuming that the observed pixels of a hyperspectral image can be expressed in the form of linear combination of only a few pure spectral signatures (end members) in an available spectral library. However, the sparse unmixing problem still remains a great challenge at finding the optimal subset of endmembers for the observed data from a large standard spectral library, without considering the spatial information. Under such circumstances, a sparse unmixing algorithm termed as non-local simultaneous sparse unmixing (NLSSU) is presented. In NLSSU, the non-local simultaneous sparse representation method for endmember selection of sparse unmixing, is used to finding the optimal subset of endmembers for the similar image patch set in the hyperspectral image. And then, the non-local means method, as a regularizer for abundance estimation of sparse unmixing, is used to exploit the abundance image non-local self-similarity. Experimental results on both simulated and real data demonstrate that NLSSU outperforms the other algorithms, with a better spectral unmixing accuracy.

Keywords: hyperspectral unmixing, simultaneous sparse representation, sparse regression, non-local means

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170 A Near-Optimal Domain Independent Approach for Detecting Approximate Duplicates

Authors: Abdelaziz Fellah, Allaoua Maamir

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We propose a domain-independent merging-cluster filter approach complemented with a set of algorithms for identifying approximate duplicate entities efficiently and accurately within a single and across multiple data sources. The near-optimal merging-cluster filter (MCF) approach is based on the Monge-Elkan well-tuned algorithm and extended with an affine variant of the Smith-Waterman similarity measure. Then we present constant, variable, and function threshold algorithms that work conceptually in a divide-merge filtering fashion for detecting near duplicates as hierarchical clusters along with their corresponding representatives. The algorithms take recursive refinement approaches in the spirit of filtering, merging, and updating, cluster representatives to detect approximate duplicates at each level of the cluster tree. Experiments show a high effectiveness and accuracy of the MCF approach in detecting approximate duplicates by outperforming the seminal Monge-Elkan’s algorithm on several real-world benchmarks and generated datasets.

Keywords: data mining, data cleaning, approximate duplicates, near-duplicates detection, data mining applications and discovery

Procedia PDF Downloads 387
169 Achieving Environmentally Sustainable Supply Chain in Textile and Apparel Industries

Authors: Faisal Bin Alam

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Most of the manufacturing entities cause negative footprint to nature that demand due attention. Textile industries have one of the longest supply chains and bear the liability of significant environmental impact to our planet. Issues of environmental safety, scarcity of energy and resources, and demand for eco-friendly products have driven research to search for safe and suitable alternatives in apparel processing. Consumer awareness, increased pressure from fashion brands and actions from local legislative authorities have somewhat been able to improve the practices. Objective of this paper is to reveal the best selection of raw materials and methods of production, taking environmental sustainability into account. Methodology used in this study is exploratory in nature based on personal experience, field visits in the factories of Bangladesh and secondary sources. Findings are limited to exploring better alternatives to conventional operations of a Readymade Garment manufacturing, from fibre selection to final product delivery, therefore showing some ways of achieving greener environment in the supply chain of a clothing industry.

Keywords: textile and apparel, environmental sustainability, supply chain, production, clothing

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168 Existential Absurdity, Alienation and Death in Charles Forsman’s The End of the Fxxxing World, I Am Not Okay With This, and Slasher

Authors: Renukha Devi Anandan

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Charles Forsman’s The End of The Fxxxing World, I Am Not Okay With This, and Slasher invariably deals with existential themes. They reflect the perplexed situation of the characters torn between the search for existence and the constraints of human conditions that impede them from such realization, ensuing a dilemma deeply-rooted in absurdity and alienation. These characters are social misfits who fail to fashion their existence and develop harmoniously. Therefore, the present paper adopts an Existential approach to examine the vignettes of alienation and absurdity vis-à-vis the characters’ speech, actions, and thoughts. Furthermore, this paper explores the role of death either as a self-destructive behavior or the eternal freedom of man in graphic novels. Findings portrayed how the characters’ absurd existence surrounded by the void, would eventually develop into death. Finally, the study revealed that Forsman’s distinctive serial illustration not only unveiled the predicaments of the characters through their hard-boiled smokescreens in the 21st-century social paradigm but also established graphic novels as part and parcel of a literary genre.

Keywords: existentialism, absurdity, alienation, death, self-destruction, eternal freedom

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167 Korean Trends as a Factor Affecting Academic Performance among Students in Higher Education Institutions

Authors: D. F. Carigma, E. Cruzado, M. J. Hagos, K. Perater, D. Ramos, R. Navarro, R. Galingan

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Korean culture disseminates rapidly across the globe. The young generation is highly engaged in Korean trends, such as Korean pop music, dramas or movies, fashion, food, and beauty standards. With the use of media, the effects of Korean trends may have resulted in the effects of media on people and society, such as addiction, perceptual influence, psychological effect, time consumption, and impulsive spending. The study aimed to determine whether there is a relationship between variable factors affecting the student's academic performance. The proponents used a quantitative approach in the 388 participants at the Technological Institute of the Philippines. This study shows that the Korean trends and the effect of media on people and society correlated to its variable factors. Moreover, this study may help future research in colleges and universities in the Philippines about how the students in higher education who engage in Korean trends affect their behavior and academic performance.

Keywords: academic performance, addiction, effect of media on people and society, Korean trend, perceptual influence, psychological effect

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166 Role of QR Codes in Environmental Consciousness of Apparel Consumption

Authors: Eleanor L. Kutschera

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This study explores the possible impact that QR codes play in helping individuals make more sustainable choices regarding apparel consumption. Data was collected via an online survey to ascertain individuals’ knowledge, attitudes, and behaviors with regard to QR codes and how this impacts their decisions to purchase apparel. Results from 250 participants provide both qualitative and quantitative data that provide valuable information regarding consumers’ use of QR codes and more sustainable purchases. Specifically, results indicate that QR codes are currently under-utilized in the apparel industry but have the potential to generate more environmentally conscious purchases. Also, results posit that while the cost of the item is the most influential factor in purchasing sustainable garments, other factors such as how, where, and what it is made of are in the middle, along with the company’s story/inspiration for creation have an impact. Moreover, participants posit the use of QR codes could make them more informed and empowered consumers, and they would be more likely to make purchases that are better for the environment. Participants’ qualitative responses provide useful incentives that could increase their future sustainable purchases. Finally, this study touches on the study’s limitations, implications, and future direction of research.

Keywords: digital ID, QR codes, environmental consciousness, sustainability, fashion industry, apparel consumption

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165 A Review of Routing Protocols for Mobile Ad-Hoc NETworks (MANET)

Authors: Hafiza Khaddija Saman, Muhammad Sufyan

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The increase in availability and popularity of mobile wireless devices has led researchers to develop a wide variety of Mobile Ad-hoc Networking (MANET) protocols to exploit the unique communication opportunities presented by these devices. Devices are able to communicate directly using the wireless spectrum in a peer-to-peer fashion, and route messages through intermediate nodes, however, the nature of wireless shared communication and mobile devices result in many routing and security challenges which must be addressed before deploying a MANET. In this paper, we investigate the range of MANET routing protocols available and discuss the functionalities of several ranging from early protocols such as DSDV to more advanced such as MAODV, our protocol study focuses upon works by Perkins in developing and improving MANET routing. A range of literature relating to the field of MANET routing was identified and reviewed, we also reviewed literature on the topic of securing AODV based MANETs as this may be the most popular MANET protocol. The literature review identified a number of trends within research papers such as exclusive use of the random waypoint mobility model, excluding key metrics from simulation results and not comparing protocol performance against available alternatives.

Keywords: protocol, MANET, ad-Hoc, communication

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164 Semi-Supervised Hierarchical Clustering Given a Reference Tree of Labeled Documents

Authors: Ying Zhao, Xingyan Bin

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Semi-supervised clustering algorithms have been shown effective to improve clustering process with even limited supervision. However, semi-supervised hierarchical clustering remains challenging due to the complexities of expressing constraints for agglomerative clustering algorithms. This paper proposes novel semi-supervised agglomerative clustering algorithms to build a hierarchy based on a known reference tree. We prove that by enforcing distance constraints defined by a reference tree during the process of hierarchical clustering, the resultant tree is guaranteed to be consistent with the reference tree. We also propose a framework that allows the hierarchical tree generation be aware of levels of levels of the agglomerative tree under creation, so that metric weights can be learned and adopted at each level in a recursive fashion. The experimental evaluation shows that the additional cost of our contraint-based semi-supervised hierarchical clustering algorithm (HAC) is negligible, and our combined semi-supervised HAC algorithm outperforms the state-of-the-art algorithms on real-world datasets. The experiments also show that our proposed methods can improve clustering performance even with a small number of unevenly distributed labeled data.

Keywords: semi-supervised clustering, hierarchical agglomerative clustering, reference trees, distance constraints

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163 Social Media Marketing Efforts to Influence Brand Equity and Consumer Behavior: The Case of Luxury Fashion Brands in Pakistan

Authors: Syed Rashid Hussain Shah, Sumera Syed, Nida Mushtaq

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Social media is not only acting as a medium of communication; rather it has provided a platform where customers can actually live with the brands they so dearly envy and interact with others with same interest. Organizations are making social media marketing efforts (SMME) to convert this opportunity into a meaningful experience. It may be resembled or considered as an act of branding where the notion is not only to understand the consumer behavior but also developing a strong link with them. Ultimately the quest is to influence and bend it into a mutual benefit of the stakeholders. This study investigates SMME of brands with the help of five dimensions (i.e., entertainment, interaction, trendiness, customization and word of mouth). The study has found that there is no significant impact of SMME as a construct on brand equity and consumer behavior. However, few of the dimensions (i.e. customization and word of mouth), have been found to have influence on brand equity (brand association, brand image) and consumer response (brand preferences).

Keywords: social media marketing efforts (SMME), brand equity, preference, loyalty price premium, luxury brands, international

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162 Bibliometric Measures on Leveraging Technology to Mitigate the Impact of Covid-19 on Business

Authors: Olanrewaju Johnson Akinduntire

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This paper investigates the statistical evaluation of books, citations, articles, journals and other publications in accounting and finance on leveraging technology to mitigate the impact of COVID-19 on business. The research proffers an appraisal of the impact of computerized accounting systems in pre and post pandemic era on activities of the formal and informal sectors, it analyzes the concept of computerized accounting systems, and it seeks to determine the impact of computerized of the overall activities of the informal sector. A special focus of this ICT strategy should be to demystify and promote the diffusion of ICT as a general-purpose technology to the informal sector. It is believed that the use of new technologies can be crucial to meeting the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) in a timely and effective fashion. Consequent to these, there is a need to prevent the further marginalization of the informal sector by availing ICT services which are mixed appropriately and also properly located. By implication, this will help them access markets and other business information, which can enable or make their economic activities more vibrant and facilitate the availability of information about new opportunities. Conclusively, for one to understand the application of ICT and their locational dynamics in informal sector clusters, there is a need to comprehend and acknowledge the drivers and pressures leading to the adoption of new technology.

Keywords: COVID-19 , (MDGs) , ICT, bibliometric

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161 A Self-Coexistence Strategy for Spectrum Allocation Using Selfish and Unselfish Game Models in Cognitive Radio Networks

Authors: Noel Jeygar Robert, V. K.Vidya

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Cognitive radio is a software-defined radio technology that allows cognitive users to operate on the vacant bands of spectrum allocated to licensed users. Cognitive radio plays a vital role in the efficient utilization of wireless radio spectrum available between cognitive users and licensed users without making any interference to licensed users. The spectrum allocation followed by spectrum sharing is done in a fashion where a cognitive user has to wait until spectrum holes are identified and allocated when the licensed user moves out of his own allocated spectrum. In this paper, we propose a self –coexistence strategy using bargaining and Cournot game model for achieving spectrum allocation in cognitive radio networks. The game-theoretic model analyses the behaviour of cognitive users in both cooperative and non-cooperative scenarios and provides an equilibrium level of spectrum allocation. Game-theoretic models such as bargaining game model and Cournot game model produce a balanced distribution of spectrum resources and energy consumption. Simulation results show that both game theories achieve better performance compared to other popular techniques

Keywords: cognitive radio, game theory, bargaining game, Cournot game

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160 Attendance Management System Implementation Using Face Recognition

Authors: Zainab S. Abdullahi, Zakariyya H. Abdullahi, Sahnun Dahiru

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Student attendance in schools is a very important aspect in school management record. In recent years, security systems have become one of the most demanding systems in school. Every institute have its own method of taking attendance, many schools in Nigeria use the old fashion way of taking attendance. That is writing the students name and registration number in a paper and submitting it to the lecturer at the end of the lecture which is time-consuming and insecure, because some students can write for their friends without the lecturer’s knowledge. In this paper, we propose a system that takes attendance using face recognition. There are many automatic methods available for this purpose i.e. biometric attendance, but they all waste time, because the students have to follow a queue to put their thumbs on a scanner which is time-consuming. This attendance is recorded by using a camera attached in front of the class room and capturing the student images, detect the faces in the image and compare the detected faces with database and mark the attendance. The principle component analysis was used to recognize the faces detected with a high accuracy rate. The paper reviews the related work in the field of attendance system, then describe the system architecture, software algorithm and result.

Keywords: attendance system, face detection, face recognition, PCA

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159 Influences of Emerging Beauty Industry for Men on Construction of Masculinities of Male Students of Dhaka City

Authors: Abu Saleh Mohammad Sowad

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Back in history, muscular and strong male body has always been used to promulgate masculinity; for physically representing supreme manliness there were not many other options. This idealized male figure was proliferated mainly for spreading the notion of male superiority in relation to power and to give a strong base to the social construction of masculinity. This study targets to disclose the perception about the attributes masculinities among the male students of Dhaka city regarding male beautification. It is an attempt to unveil young men’s perspectives regarding their masculinities and beauty. Till the very recent past, beauty was always seen as sole feminine trait in Bangladeshi society. From history we can see men have always been assumed as the ambassador of roughness but in recent time the emergence of fashion-conscious men can be seen, who are slowly occupying a handsome position in the society. Concerning study attempts to bring out the way in which such changing trend of male beauty is perceived among the male students of Dhaka city. What could be the ideologies of these young men who are being involved with it? What is influencing them to be part of such arena which, to a great extent, is still considered as female domain? Is their perception about construction of masculinity is shifting from the so called idealized masculinity? The study tries to find out the answers.

Keywords: masculinity, male beauty, Bangladesh, identity, body

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158 Users and Non-Users of Social Media: An Exploratory Study of Rural Women in Eastern Uttar Pradesh

Authors: Neha Bhushan

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For the purpose of this study a village of district Azamgarh has been selected which is a part of the most populous and backward state of the country, Uttar Pradesh. In the age of information, everyone has the right to acquire information and it becomes important to assess the acceptance and non-acceptance of social media among rural population. Rural women of the state are showing positive trends in the form of increased social media and mobile usage. This study is an effort to know the purpose of rural women for using social media. The study design is exploratory and qualitative in nature. Data collection primarily consisted of 25 semi-structured individual interviews having 10 open-ended specific questions in one of the villages of Azamgarh district of Eastern Uttar Pradesh. Sampling approach is flexible and situational. Data reveals that rural women have become active on social media since last six months to one year. Most of them are using Facebook, Whatsapp, and YouTube for the purpose of interaction, learning new skills, checking out recipes and latest fashion. This pilot study gives a bird eye view of the problem and opens door for exploring this least explored area.

Keywords: exploratory research, mobile usage, rural women, social media

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157 Optimized Electron Diffraction Detection and Data Acquisition in Diffraction Tomography: A Complete Solution by Gatan

Authors: Saleh Gorji, Sahil Gulati, Ana Pakzad

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Continuous electron diffraction tomography, also known as microcrystal electron diffraction (MicroED) or three-dimensional electron diffraction (3DED), is a powerful technique, which in combination with cryo-electron microscopy (cryo-ED), can provide atomic-scale 3D information about the crystal structure and composition of different classes of crystalline materials such as proteins, peptides, and small molecules. Unlike the well-established X-ray crystallography method, 3DED does not require large single crystals and can collect accurate electron diffraction data from crystals as small as 50 – 100 nm. This is a critical advantage as growing larger crystals, as required by X-ray crystallography methods, is often very difficult, time-consuming, and expensive. In most cases, specimens studied via 3DED method are electron beam sensitive, which means there is a limitation on the maximum amount of electron dose one can use to collect the required data for a high-resolution structure determination. Therefore, collecting data using a conventional scintillator-based fiber coupled camera brings additional challenges. This is because of the inherent noise introduced during the electron-to-photon conversion in the scintillator and transfer of light via the fibers to the sensor, which results in a poor signal-to-noise ratio and requires a relatively higher and commonly specimen-damaging electron dose rates, especially for protein crystals. As in other cryo-EM techniques, damage to the specimen can be mitigated if a direct detection camera is used which provides a high signal-to-noise ratio at low electron doses. In this work, we have used two classes of such detectors from Gatan, namely the K3® camera (a monolithic active pixel sensor) and Stela™ (that utilizes DECTRIS hybrid-pixel technology), to address this problem. The K3 is an electron counting detector optimized for low-dose applications (like structural biology cryo-EM), and Stela is also a counting electron detector but optimized for diffraction applications with high speed and high dynamic range. Lastly, data collection workflows, including crystal screening, microscope optics setup (for imaging and diffraction), stage height adjustment at each crystal position, and tomogram acquisition, can be one of the other challenges of the 3DED technique. Traditionally this has been all done manually or in a partly automated fashion using open-source software and scripting, requiring long hours on the microscope (extra cost) and extensive user interaction with the system. We have recently introduced Latitude® D in DigitalMicrograph® software, which is compatible with all pre- and post-energy-filter Gatan cameras and enables 3DED data acquisition in an automated and optimized fashion. Higher quality 3DED data enables structure determination with higher confidence, while automated workflows allow these to be completed considerably faster than before. Using multiple examples, this work will demonstrate how to direct detection electron counting cameras enhance 3DED results (3 to better than 1 Angstrom) for protein and small molecule structure determination. We will also show how Latitude D software facilitates collecting such data in an integrated and fully automated user interface.

Keywords: continuous electron diffraction tomography, direct detection, diffraction, Latitude D, Digitalmicrograph, proteins, small molecules

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156 The Iconic Pink Donut Box: An Analysis of Memory and Identity Amongst Cambodian Refugees in California

Authors: Basmah Arshad

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In the aftermath of the Cambodian genocide, many refugees resettled in America. They carved out a distinctively Cambodian-American space in California with donut shops, establishing a tight-knit community that worked to achieve ‘the American dream’. Urged by traumatic memories of the genocide and American society directly encouraging (if not demanding) cultural assimilation, these refugees and successive generations continuously worked to re-identify themselves as Americans. Artist Phung Huynh grew up in this context of family-owned donut shops and the frantic scramble for stability and security. It is this community that she depicts in her artwork series from the late 2010s, ‘Khmerican: Drawing on Pink Donut Boxes’. Huynh's artwork challenges dominant Western narratives about the Cambodian genocide by pushing forward images of resilience, resistance, and joy, while also allowing for a discussion about issues of assimilation, identity, and nostalgia in the Cambodian-American community. It also provokes deeply relevant questions about how refugees and immigrants deliberately appropriate elements of the Americana (eg, donuts) to assimilate and re-fashion their identity as a tactic for financial stability and social survival.

Keywords: Cambodian diaspora, cultural identity, assimilation, food, artwork

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155 Critical Evaluation of Groundwater Monitoring Networks for Machine Learning Applications

Authors: Pedro Martinez-Santos, Víctor Gómez-Escalonilla, Silvia Díaz-Alcaide, Esperanza Montero, Miguel Martín-Loeches

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Groundwater monitoring networks are critical in evaluating the vulnerability of groundwater resources to depletion and contamination, both in space and time. Groundwater monitoring networks typically grow over decades, often in organic fashion, with relatively little overall planning. The groundwater monitoring networks in the Madrid area, Spain, were reviewed for the purpose of identifying gaps and opportunities for improvement. Spatial analysis reveals the presence of various monitoring networks belonging to different institutions, with several hundred observation wells in an area of approximately 4000 km2. This represents several thousand individual data entries, some going back to the early 1970s. Major issues included overlap between the networks, unknown screen depth/vertical distribution for many observation boreholes, uneven time series, uneven monitored species, and potentially suboptimal locations. Results also reveal there is sufficient information to carry out a spatial and temporal analysis of groundwater vulnerability based on machine learning applications. These can contribute to improve the overall planning of monitoring networks’ expansion into the future.

Keywords: groundwater monitoring, observation networks, machine learning, madrid

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154 Local Female Dresses of Yuruk Community in Günaydin Village of Balikesir Region

Authors: Melek Tufan, Filiz Erden, E. Elhan Özus

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Apparel is a fact that has assigned wide cultural functions in development process even if it basically aims at protection during mankind's cultural development and course of live. It is an important cultural element that has been shaped by ecological conditions, social and personal values, traditions, cultural and economic conditions, at the same time it is a bearer of culture. Customs and traditions that maintain culture create differences in dressing styles of the region. These differences create traditional clothing forms specific to each region, which are different from each other or show close similarities. Differences which have dominant features create sense of dress specific to community owned. Samples of a kind of dress worn over salwar, long shirt, jacket, salwar and underpants that are types of local female dresses available in houses of yuruk community in Günaydın village of Balıkesir region have been found. By examining local dresses in terms of material, color, cutting, sewing, ornamentation technique and ornamentation subject and it has been aimed to record them with observation forms and transfer them to the next generations.

Keywords: women, traditional, Turkish Culture, art, fashion

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153 An Entropy Stable Three Dimensional Ideal MHD Solver with Guaranteed Positive Pressure

Authors: Andrew R. Winters, Gregor J. Gassner

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A high-order numerical magentohydrodynamics (MHD) solver built upon a non-linear entropy stable numerical flux function that supports eight traveling wave solutions will be described. The method is designed to treat the divergence-free constraint on the magnetic field in a similar fashion to a hyperbolic divergence cleaning technique. The solver is especially well-suited for flows involving strong discontinuities due to its strong stability without the need to enforce artificial low density or energy limits. Furthermore, a new formulation of the numerical algorithm to guarantee positivity of the pressure during the simulation is described and presented. By construction, the solver conserves mass, momentum, and energy and is entropy stable. High spatial order is obtained through the use of a third order limiting technique. High temporal order is achieved by utilizing the family of strong stability preserving (SSP) Runge-Kutta methods. Main attributes of the solver are presented as well as details on an implementation of the new solver into the multi-physics, multi-scale simulation code FLASH. The accuracy, robustness, and computational efficiency is demonstrated with a variety of numerical tests. Comparisons are also made between the new solver and existing methods already present in FLASH framework.

Keywords: entropy stability, finite volume scheme, magnetohydrodynamics, pressure positivity

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152 Vocational and Technical Education: A Practical Approach to Reducing Insecurity in Nigeria

Authors: S. S. Amoor

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Insecurity is becoming a major tool in the hand of Nigeria’s enemies to increase poverty and hatred among the citizens and split the county into several political segments. It is based on this background that this paper critically examines Vocational and Technical Education as a practical and realistic approach to reducing insecurity in Nigeria so as to save the country from total disintegration. The paper discusses the concept of insecurity, types, causes and effects of insecurity, and how vocational and technical education and its variables are fundamental and practical measures to reducing insecurity in Nigeria. The paper concludes that the large army of unemployed and unskilled youths in Nigeria requires immediate attention in the area of provision of marketable vocational and technical skills, creativity and competences that will prepare them for employment or self-reliance. It is hoped that government jobs or self-employment will keep the teeming youths busy and therefore take their minds away from odd jobs that threaten the security of the country. In line with these, the paper recommends, among others, that since the teeming unemployed and unskilled youths are mostly from the rural areas, the state governments in collaboration with the local governments should take appropriate steps to provide the youths with vocational skills in carpentry, fashion designing, hair-dressing, driving, welding, mechanical works, among others. Once the youths are involved in one skilled trade or the other, insecurity would be reduced.

Keywords: vocational and technical education, insecurity, practical approach to reducing insecurity, unemployment

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151 Investigation of the Thermal Flow inside the Catalytic Combustor for Lean CH4-Air Mixture on a Platinum Catalyst with H2 Addition

Authors: Kumaresh Selvakumar, Man Young Kim

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In order to elaborate the main idea of investigating the flow physics inside the catalytic combustor, the characteristics of the catalytic surface reactions are analyzed by employing the CHEMKIN methodology with detailed gas and surface chemistries. The presence of a catalyst inside an engine enables complete combustion at lower temperatures which promotes desired chemical reactions. A single channel from the honeycomb monolith catalytic combustor is preferred to analyze the gas and surface reactions in the catalyst bed considering the fact that every channel in the honeycomb monolith behaves in similar fashion. The simplified approach with single catalyst channel using plug flow reactor can be used to predict the flow behavior inside the catalytic combustor. The hydrogen addition to the combustion reactants offers a way to light-off catalytic combustion of methane on platinum catalyst and aids to reduce the surface ignition temperature. Indeed, the hydrogen adsorption is higher on the uncovered Pt(s) surface sites because the sticking coefficient of hydrogen is larger than that of methane. The location of flame position in the catalyst bed is validated by igniting the methane fuel with the presence of hydrogen for corresponding multistep surface reactions.

Keywords: catalytic combustor, hydrogen adsorption, plug flow reactor, surface ignition temperature

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150 Development of Nanostructrued Hydrogel for Spatial and Temporal Controlled Release of Active Compounds

Authors: Shaker Alsharif, Xavier Banquy

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Controlled drug delivery technology represents one of the most rapidly advancing areas of science in which chemists and chemical engineers are contributing to human health care. Such delivery systems provide numerous advantages compared to conventional dosage forms including improved efficacy, and improved patient compliance and convenience. Such systems often use synthetic polymers as carriers for the drugs. As a result, treatments that would not otherwise be possible are now in conventional use. The role of bilayered vesicles as efficient carriers for drugs, vaccines, diagnostic agents and other bioactive agents have led to a rapid advancement in the liposomal drug delivery system. Moreover, the site avoidance and site-specific drug targeting therapy could be achieved by formulating a liposomal product, so as to reduce the cytotoxicity of many potent therapeutic agents. Our project focuses on developing and building hydrogel with nanoinclusion of liposomes loaded with active compounds such as proteins and growth factors able to release them in a controlled fashion. In order to achieve that, we synthesize several liposomes of two different phospholipids concentrations encapsulating model drug. Then, formulating hydrogel with specific mechanical properties embedding the liposomes to manage the release of active compound.

Keywords: controlled release, hydrogel, liposomes, active compounds

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149 Influence of Resin Finishes on Properties of Khadi Fabric

Authors: Shivi Rastogi, Suman Pant

Abstract:

Khadi is an Indian fabric and also known by another name “Khaddar”. During pre-independence era, the movement of khadi manufacturing gained momentum. Over the years, khadi fabrics that were generally considered as the “second skin” of the Swadesh revolutionists changed its uniqueness. It underwent a metamorphosis from that of a patriot’s fabric, and a farmer’s apparel, to become a “fashion fabric”. Drape of garment is governed by draping quality of fabric used. Drape is an essential parameter to decide both appearance and handle of fabric. It is also a secondary determinant of fabric mechanical properties as influenced by the low stress properties, like bending length, formability, tensile and shear properties and compressibility of the fabric. In finishing, fabric is treated to add something to coat the fabric or fiber and thereby temporarily or permanently fix. Film forming agents such as thermoplastic and thermosetting resins and other surface deposits alter hand. In this study, resins were used to modify fabric hand. Three types of resins have been applied on the khadi fabric at three concentration. The effect of these finishes on drapeability, crease recovery, stiffness, tearing strength and smoothness of khadi fabrics were assessed. Silicone gave good results in imparting properties specially drape, smoothness and softness and hand of cotton and khadi fabric. KES result also showed that silicone treated samples enhanced THV rating amongst all treated samples when compared to the control fabric.

Keywords: crease recovery, drapeability, KES, silicone, THV

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148 The Pyrolysis of Leather and Textile Waste in Carbonised Materials as an Element of the Circular Economy Model

Authors: Maciej Życki, Anna Kowalik-klimczak, Monika Łożyńska, Wioletta Barszcz, Jolanta Drabik Anna Kowalik-klimczak

Abstract:

The rapidly changing fashion trends generate huge amounts of leather and textile waste globally. The complexity of these types of waste makes recycling difficult in economic terms. Pyrolysis is suggested for this purpose, which transforms heterogeneous and complex waste into added-value products e.g. active carbons and soil fertilizer. The possibility of using pyrolysis for the valorization of leather and textile waste has been analyzed in this paper. In the first stage, leather and textile waste were subjected to TG/DTG thermogravimetric and DSC calorimetric analysis. These analyses provided basic information about thermochemical transformations and degradation rates during the pyrolysis of these types of waste and enabled the selection of the pyrolysis temperature. In the next stage, the effect of gas type using pyrolysis was investigated on the physicochemical properties, composition, structure, and formation of the specific surfaces of carbonized materials produced by means of a thermal treatment without oxygen access to the reaction chamber. These studies contribute some data about the thermal management and pyrolytic processing of leather and textile waste into useful carbonized materials, according to the circular economy model.

Keywords: pyrolysis, leather and textiles waste, composition and structure of carbonized materials, valorisation of waste, circular economy model

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147 On Algebraic Structure of Improved Gauss-Seide Iteration

Authors: O. M. Bamigbola, A. A. Ibrahim

Abstract:

Analysis of real life problems often results in linear systems of equations for which solutions are sought. The method to employ depends, to some extent, on the properties of the coefficient matrix. It is not always feasible to solve linear systems of equations by direct methods, as such the need to use an iterative method becomes imperative. Before an iterative method can be employed to solve a linear system of equations there must be a guaranty that the process of solution will converge. This guaranty, which must be determined a priori, involve the use of some criterion expressible in terms of the entries of the coefficient matrix. It is, therefore, logical that the convergence criterion should depend implicitly on the algebraic structure of such a method. However, in deference to this view is the practice of conducting convergence analysis for Gauss-Seidel iteration on a criterion formulated based on the algebraic structure of Jacobi iteration. To remedy this anomaly, the Gauss-Seidel iteration was studied for its algebraic structure and contrary to the usual assumption, it was discovered that some property of the iteration matrix of Gauss-Seidel method is only diagonally dominant in its first row while the other rows do not satisfy diagonal dominance. With the aid of this structure we herein fashion out an improved version of Gauss-Seidel iteration with the prospect of enhancing convergence and robustness of the method. A numerical section is included to demonstrate the validity of the theoretical results obtained for the improved Gauss-Seidel method.

Keywords: linear algebraic system, Gauss-Seidel iteration, algebraic structure, convergence

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146 Digital Art Fabric Prints: Procedure, Process and Progress

Authors: Tripti Singh

Abstract:

Digital tools are merging boundaries of different mediums as endeavoured artists exploring new areas. Digital fabric printing has motivated artists to create prints by combining images acquired by photograph, scanned images, computer graphics and microscopic imaginary etc to name few, with traditional media such as hand drawing, weaving, hand printed patterns, printing making techniques and so on. It opened whole new world of possibilities for artists to search, research and combine old and contemporary mediums for their unique art prints. As artistic medium digital art fabrics have aesthetic values which have impact and influence on not only on a personality but also interiors of a living or work space. In this way it can be worn, as fashion statement and also an interior decoration. Digital art fabric prints gives opportunity to print almost everything on any fabric with long lasting prints quality. Single edition and limited editions are possible for maintaining scarcity and uniqueness of an art form. These fabric prints fulfill today’s need, as they are eco-friendly in nature and they produce less wastage compared to traditional fabric printing techniques. These prints can be used to make unique and customized curtains, quilts, clothes, bags, furniture, dolls, pillows, framed artwork, costumes, banners and much, much more. This paper will explore the procedure, process, and progress techniques of digital art fabric printing in depth with suitable pictorial examples.

Keywords: digital art, fabric prints, digital fabric prints, new media

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145 Universality as Opportunity Domain behind the Threats and Challenges of Natural Disasters

Authors: Kunto Wibowo Agung Prodjonoto

Abstract:

Occasionally, opportunities occur not due to chances but threats. This, however, is often not realized because a greater threat is perceived to be anything that threatens, endangers, or harms, resulting in bad impacts that are also part of the risk and consequence. As a result, more focus tends to direct towards the bad impacts. Risk, in this case, shall be seen rather as something challenging, which can turn to be an opportunity to tackle an obstacle. Therefore, it does not seem exaggerating if later, risk can be considered as a challenge that presents an opportunity. So as in the context of the threat of natural disasters which gives an idea that opportunities exist. Nature referred to in a fashion as 'natural disasters' captured an expression to picture the 'threats' aspect, which instructively implying a chance of opportunity. This is quite logical, as SWOT (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, threats) analysis can evaluate the situation at hand related to the analysis of various factors in formulating strategies to deal with natural disaster situations. The analytical method created by Albert Humphrey is indeed not an analytical tool to provide solutions, but certainly 'opportunities and challenges' are discussed therein on a vertical line, where opportunities are posited on the positive axis, and threats are posed on the negative axis. Observing this dynamism, the challenges and threats of disasters are having opportunity relevance to moralizing opportunities, that by quality poses universalism populist characteristics, universalism characteristics, and regional characteristics. Here, universalism appears as an opportunity domain underneath the threats and challenges of natural disasters.

Keywords: universality, opportunities, threats, challenges of natural disasters

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144 Narrating 1968: Felipe Cazals’ Canoa (1976) and Images of Massacre

Authors: Nancy Elizabeth Naranjo Garcia

Abstract:

Canoa (1976) by Felipe Cazals is a film that exposes the consequences of power that the Mexican State exercised over the 1968 student movement. The film, in this particular way, approaches the Tlatelolco Massacre from a point of view that takes into consideration the events that led up to it. Nonetheless, the reference to the political tension in Canoa remains ambiguous. Thus, the cinematographic representation refers to an event that leaves space for reflection, and as a consequence leaves evidence of an image that signals the notion of survival as Georges Didi-Huberman points out. In addition to denouncing the oppressive force by the Mexican State, the images in Canoa also emphasize what did not happen in Tlatelolco and its condensation with the student activists. To observe the images that Canoa offers in a new light, this work proposes further exploration with the following questions; How do the images in Canoa narrate? How are the images inserted in the film? In this fashion, a more profound comprehension of the objective and the essence of the images becomes feasible. As a result, it is possible to analyze the images of Canoa with the real killing at San Miguel Canoa in literature. The film visualizes a testimony of the event that once seemed unimaginable, an image that anticipates and structures the proceeding event. Therefore, this study takes a second look at how Canoa considers not only the killing at San Miguel Canoa and the Tlatlelolco Massacre, but goes further on contextualize an unimaginable image.

Keywords: cinematographic representation, student movement, Tlatelolco Massacre, unimaginable image

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